Updated Firmware, now engine wont fire
 

I am in desperate need of help. I was having a ton of issues with megasquirt and I thought updating the firmware may help. Well after the update finished and I loaded the previous tune I had, the engine wouldnt fire. Is there a setting that doesnt come a long with a tune that I need to update? I am clueless and pretty screwed right now.

Is there a chance I fried my coils updating the firmware? I also had the following issues loading the map

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433109296

Here is a data log of the car trying to start

What version of megasquirt. Post a log and tune. Did you unplug your coils when flashing, and if not why not.

I didnt. I am a moron and have been having 1 of the worst days ever. Because I didnt, what is more likely coil issues or firmware issues?

Data log is in the 2nd post

What version of megasquirt. Some versions dont burn up coils when flashed. Also my advice is to leave it alone for the day. No need to get mad at it, only makes it harder to fix.

Version 2. I agree I need to step away but 1 big issue is I am not very knowledgeable about this so stepping away only helps me relax, it probably wont fix anything :(

But you might have remembered to unplug the coils if you were relaxed. If you have to set the coil output to inverted then its possible they fried. Someone else who has used ms2 will probably chime in.

Ya I 100% agree with you there.

All this talk of possibly frying coils, but that's so easy to check, I'd start there.

No fuel or rpm signal on the log you posted though, no idea where to go from there.

Im thinking this error in spark could be a probem

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433109338

I have been searching on how to test because I feel like a fool asking when I am sure the info is out there. I have never touched a coil pack in my life, how can I test them?

Pull the spark plugs, make sure the plug has a ground to the block, and check to see if you can see spark while the engine is cranking.

You probably won't see it though, and the coil pack might not necessarily be bad. With no RPM signal it has no idea when to spark.

Before the firmware update i was able to read rpms in tuner studio. I know i sound like a complete idiot but that would mean it was getting signal previously right?

I actually have new spark plugs sitting on my work bench. would it be an issue if i just pulled 1 wire, attached it to a new spark plug, grounded it and checked?

<p></p><p>Would be fun.</p>

just did it while my wife held the plug to the valve cover, all garage lights off, no spark. But you think since there is no rpm signal it wouldnt spark even if the coils were fine?

<p>Next time you should hold it and pretend to get shocked real bad, gets my gf every time.</p><p>Sounds like you have a different problem. post your tune.</p>

that would have been fun! Heres the tune.

would it be a bad idea to plug in my oem ecu and see if the car start?

IT STARTED WITH THE STOCK ECU!!! ok now how do I find someone very knowledgeable to help me get it running on MS well?

Hrm,

I'd export your fuel table then import the basemap and then bring your tables back in.

Spark A output pin under ignition options should be set to IGN1, not whatever yours is set at.

I tried importing a basemap from diyautotune but still had errors and couldnt start. I will try and get out of work early tomorrow to do more tests. If you see anything else not right in my tune please let me know.

I know this is a dumb question but what does the firmware setup mean by "remove the ignition coil fuse" so I know what to unplug for next time. Which fuse is this?

Unplug the coils or unplug the ignitor, that's all you do.

Easy peasy, I think I'm going to try and reinstall the firmware tomorrow. It also said something along the lines of unplug the boot. Any idea about that one?

boot jumper, never have to touch it once you have something at all on it.

Occasionally you may need it if there's something really scrambled in the tune.

Is there anyone who can help me get the car started? Are there any vendors on the site that I could buy support from? I bought the MS 2nd hand so I dont know who built it.

:bowrofl:

Thats awesome.


Seriously though there is a test mode in TS to check your coils. You will here them firing when you enable it. No need to pull anything.

David where are you located? I feel bad that you are having all these issues.( I read your other thread about the "tuner")

Maybe one of us could help if we were local to you

I am in PA, not far from philly. Nothing would make my life better than if someone could help me. I am $340 into a tuner and the car is now not running.....

This is why I fuckin hate tuners. Most of them make money off of tuning for flashes not standalone stuff. Im out in texas so I'm too far. Post up on the Miatasquirt Facebook page we have a lot of nice group members there that may also chime in to come help you out.

joining now, thanks

Mail the thing here if you have to, I'm sure you'll find local help though.

Honestly I am thinking of just buying a new MSPNP just so I can get the support. Waiting for a response from diyautotune now though.

Good luck with the support. By "support" they don't exactly mean over the phone engine tuning.

Post a picture of the ECU here so that we can see what you actually have.

I cant find any markings or serial numbers. Also the shop that did the build put a sticker on it, not sure if that is covering something.

Attachment 233240

Attachment 233241

Attachment 233242

That's a DIYPNP

Would that use a different firmware/ini?

Possibly, probably.

Ok I am definitely running the wrong firmware....

You want 3.3.2 or 3.3.3 IIRC, search for DIYPNP miata (your year) documentation in google, should bring it to the top.

Ok i got it, turns out I need to use the microsquirt firmware but the batch file options are a bit different than in the documentation. I have 2 options 1 for microsquirt (cased) and 1 for microsquirt module (diypnp). The Documentation says

Microsquirt = black plastic cased ECU.
• Microsquirt module = DIYPNP or other ECUs that use the Microsquirt module.
• MSPNP2 = DIYautotune MSPNP2 only

but both seem to fit my description.... Any idea which would be more right based on the pictures I shared?

Also would unplugging the CAS kill power to the coil packs. I tried unplugging them but I cant get the wiring harness to budge....

You have a microsquirt module based MS2 DIYPNP. DIYPNP =/= MSPNP2

Why is the CAS unplugged?

Its not, I was wondering if it was an alternative to pulling the coil packs because my hands cant get to them...

No, it doesn't work like that.

Do you have one of the 110v power supplies, goes in the plug to the right of the printer cable looking things? Unplug everything from the unit and flash it with the wall-wart thing, then plug it all back in.

Attachment 233239

Ah ok the connector to the right of the silver cable, i had no idea that was there

http://www.microcenter.com/product/3...12V_DC_Adapter

That should do the trick right?

Yeah, that should do the trick.

you are a life saver! I just happened to have 1 in my closet and it worked! I just loaded the 3.3.3 firmware and chose Microsquirt module = DIYPNP or other ECUs that use the Microsquirt module. Do you know where I can find a basemap now? The maps on diyautotune are for older firmware

Not a problem!

I still use 3.3.2 so unfortunately I can't help there. If you download the old DIYPNP basemap and open two concurrent tunerstudio programs you ought to be able to line everything up, import and export tables.

THE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ON

I dont think you understand how amazing of a person you are!!!!!!!

Hah, I do my best :party:

Now I need to see if its still running like crap and stalling out though. But that's for tomorrow

Just drove it, making full boost and it has been idling fine. It sucks that my idle issue only happened when it got hot though so it may still be there. You guys are amazing

Did you see DNMakinson's thread?

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...it-miss-84668/

I just took a look and will try it if the issue happens again. Does it make any sense that ambient temps could have such an impact on the idle? I just drove the car around for 15-20 minutes, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then started it and it started right up... I called the shop that did the work and he thinks the problem may not be the tune but the fact that under the hot sun the fuel sits in the fuel rails super hot and then when i try to start it again it needs some time to move around and cool off. Could it be possible that there actually isnt any issue in my tune causing this?

You mean a lean hot restart condition? Yeah, that's pretty common. There's a lot of factors at play, and I'd rather not explain them all again. Lean hot restart should give you plenty to search on though.

The idle going to pot after the car has been running a while is not normal though.

I dont think its a lean start. It really only happens when the car is sitting in the sun in 80+degree weather. Right now I can idle great in all conditions... I dont know what will happen on a hot day though.

Your injectors will heat soak. reuardless om ambient and that is whats happening. the best way to fix this is not gamma air correction like many will sugest(new firmware fixes this) but rather by adding more After Start enrichment till it goes away. Basically you want to jet a ton of fuel through your injectors to cool them so when ASE ends the injectors can move into your ve table nicely. By the time your done tuning ASE you will end up with a U shape on the graph. Also do not forget to use ASE Taper to tell the ecu how long to run ASE.