Car initial startup/idle issue
#1
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Car initial startup/idle issue
I am having an issue with my startup. Previously i would have to hold the accelerator pedal down on startup to keep the rpms up for 30 seconds before it would idle. Now I start it up and it will die the first time and then the second or third time it will start and then idle poorly. I cannot figure out what to do. Here is my my log and msq if anyone could help me. I just rechecked timing was at 10 when on fixed timing. There also seems to be a slight misfire or hiccup at idle. I haven't noticed this before MS install. I just changed fuel req from 12.9 to 13.2.
Thanks in advance,
Ben
Thanks in advance,
Ben
#4
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lol I had it set to 12.9 as it was stock in the ECU from reverant. I saw online from what i think was braineack said 13.2 was correct.
1990 miata with 1.8l flyin miata swap (95 motor), k0422 turbo (mazda cx7), stock 1.8l injectors, ebay intercooled, DW 255lph fuel pump, 5x11x22 magnaflow muffler with no cats, MS2Extra/Enhanced by Reverant. There are some others but they are irrelevant to my engine.
1990 miata with 1.8l flyin miata swap (95 motor), k0422 turbo (mazda cx7), stock 1.8l injectors, ebay intercooled, DW 255lph fuel pump, 5x11x22 magnaflow muffler with no cats, MS2Extra/Enhanced by Reverant. There are some others but they are irrelevant to my engine.
#6
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I have been trying but I haven't been too successful. I made logs this morning but the attachment button isn't showing up so i cannot upload them. It started up the second time this morning. I changed the req fuel back to 12.9. This is the number that the fuel calculator in megasquirt has given me.
Last edited by 1.6turbokid; 12-11-2017 at 08:56 AM.
#8
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since you have to hold the throttle open to sustain running, the first thing I would start tuning is the cranking duty table and initial idle duty tables. think about every car you ever start, they idle up after initial startup and then slowly work down -- you need to mimic this WITH THE TUNE, not your foot.
then you probably have a completely untuned warmup table as well coupled with a poorly tuned VE table, and why youre having difficulty running, where you need more fuel at idle when the motor is cold, and holding the throttle open is probably putting you at a better spot in your ve table.
then you probably have a completely untuned warmup table as well coupled with a poorly tuned VE table, and why youre having difficulty running, where you need more fuel at idle when the motor is cold, and holding the throttle open is probably putting you at a better spot in your ve table.
#9
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since you have to hold the throttle open to sustain running, the first thing I would start tuning is the cranking duty table and initial idle duty tables. think about every car you ever start, they idle up after initial startup and then slowly work down -- you need to mimic this WITH THE TUNE, not your foot.
then you probably have a completely untuned warmup table as well coupled with a poorly tuned VE table, and why youre having difficulty running, where you need more fuel at idle when the motor is cold, and holding the throttle open is probably putting you at a better spot in your ve table.
then you probably have a completely untuned warmup table as well coupled with a poorly tuned VE table, and why youre having difficulty running, where you need more fuel at idle when the motor is cold, and holding the throttle open is probably putting you at a better spot in your ve table.
#11
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I changed my Idle Cranking Duty/Steps and got it to start at about 1100 but immediately dropped down to about 850. I cannot find where you change the base rpm at initial startup so it will stay at 1100 and then idle down after a specified amount of time. Is that the idle warmup duty/steps table?
#13
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it's the crank-to-run setting. you're only not using closed loop idle -- this will cause much havoc when the temp and/or load changes.
your prime pulse table being zeroed out is odd.
you're also not using adaptive timing with idle control, which coupled with closed loop makes idle better than stock.
your prime pulse table being zeroed out is odd.
you're also not using adaptive timing with idle control, which coupled with closed loop makes idle better than stock.
#14
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it's the crank-to-run setting. you're only not using closed loop idle -- this will cause much havoc when the temp and/or load changes.
your prime pulse table being zeroed out is odd.
you're also not using adaptive timing with idle control, which coupled with closed loop makes idle better than stock.
your prime pulse table being zeroed out is odd.
you're also not using adaptive timing with idle control, which coupled with closed loop makes idle better than stock.
#16
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#18
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For some reason after changing some settings my car idled at 2200 rpm. I then turned it off for 2-3 minutes and came back out to start it up again and it was a normal idle rpm without changing any settings. I drove to the store to get the plugs and it stayed in a normal rpm the whole time. When i left the store to go home my car idled at 1400 rpm and did so until i got home. Why is it so sporadic without any input from me?