What am I missing? The DB15 connector w/ a MSPNP.
 

Ok, lets try this in the right forum this time...

I got a MSPNP from braineak a few months ago and I'm I've searched this forum and google for a while now, but it seems like everyone knows what to do with the DB15 connector... and I don't!
The instructions from Braineak (which are 95% great, I really do appreciate them alot) say to wire things to the db15 connector and also at other times to a specific wire from the db15 that's been labeled as something (ex. EBC) and I only received the female connection, metal hood for that connection, and 6' of unlabeled orange wire.

I do not know what is to be connected to where on the db15.

Also, I found the instructions on wiring the MS so that it can control the fuel pump to be vague as well. I found a little blurb about running a wire from a green wire(Is the the fuel pump relay?) under the dash to the db15 connector. But again, I don't know where that wire should go on the db15.

The DB15 and fuel pump are the only things holding me back from connecting the car to a computer and getting it running again. I really just want to be able to drive my car again. So any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

-Sean

Sounds like you don't have a standard MSPNP - those would not have a DB15. Do you have a DIYPNP instead? They're very different animals.

Yeah DIYPNP.

I should have labeled the inputs for your DB15. But, just checking, it's possible I didn't put anything on the db15 as you mentioned you have a completely stock setup. So I didn't run any jumpers to the Db15 plug and therefore you have nothing you need to plug into it.

As far as the fuel pump, the way I was doing it for years now was simply putting a jumper between GND and F/P in the diagnostics connector. This pretty much just runs the fuel pump anytime there is power.

What you can do on the mainboard, is solder a wire from the pin hole labeled Fuel Pump, run it to any of the 15 pins on the DB15 connector holes. Then you can solder a wire into the corresponding location on the DB15 female plug. From this wire you can run it across the dash the the steering column near where your left knee would be.

It's a lime green looking connector:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/fuel_pump_lead.gif

you would tap the that light green wire seen in the pics. This way the MS will acutally activate the fuel pump at the appropriate times.

With the new v1.5DIYPNP we can activate the fuel pump like the MSPNP and the only thing that must be done is to remove the ST_SIG fuse. But for now you pretty much have those two options.


Also if you ever want/need to add a WBo2, the process will be similar. You can either tap the input directly into the factory o2 wiring. Or on the DIYPNP mainboard, remove the jumper wire from o2 sensor to the adapter board at position 2N and instead run the wire to one of the DB15 ports. Then you can run the WBo2 input into the db15 connector.


Clear things up?

Yes. Eventually I figured I didn't have the connections because I
didn't need them yet. I may have to revisit this post once I do have a wide bando2 ebc etc... . . . . The issue I have now is the wells tps isn't sending a signal to the ecu because I'm getting the same value for 0 and 100 percent throttle.. and also I'm not getting any spark.

per my directions: the TPS connector MUST be unplugged.

see the bottom of page two in bold red and the lengthy explanation about it ;)

Scott,

For the 1.6 cars I recommend not running anything from VREF to the adapter harness. Then it won't matter if the TPS is plugged in or not. Also, (though you probably already do this), lay a resistor between the TPS pin and ground. This will prevent TPS from floating.

I was under the impression that you disconnect the tps only if you don't upgrade to a linear tps. I inatalled a Wells tps as per your instructions found online.

Also I know I don't have spark because I tried to arc the plug on the valve cover.

can you take a log of it cranking please.

Sure. It may be a day or so. I live in Chicago and the car's located about an hour away.

So any other tips for me to try when I get access to the car again?

Was I correct about the tps or should it be disconnected?

you are correct, if the wells tps mod has been done then you should be okay, i prewired it so you can run the tps. we need to see why it's not sending spark,you should be seeing rpms on the virtual dashboard when you crank.

acutally a composite logo if cranking would be good as well, that way i can see if it's seeing the proper signals from the CAS. and your msq while you are at it.

Do you mean the msq file you provided?

I'm going to try to get to the car tomorrow to pull that log.

Alright. I just took a log of the car trying to start and what happens is everything stays still and my rpm guage is pegged at some crazy number.

I've attached the log and my msq file (which I haven't opened or run yet).

Ok so I have to run inside to do this aparently uploads are disabled from my droid....

EDIT: Attached!

Come on guys, I live an hour away from the car and I came up today after work just to post up this log.

Help a brotha out!

EDIT: With the stock ECU, the car starts right up. So it has to be something w/ the DIYPNP...

I'll be making a stop at the car tonight to try to get it running but I would really appreciate some follow up on the log/msq I posted.

But at what point do I start to consider that something's wrong with the DIYpnp?

Pegged RPM gauge means a settings conflict, and it won't start the motor until you un-confuse it. You have your tach output set to JS10, which on a DIYPNP is also spark output 1. Turn tach output off.

What 'crazy number' are you seeing? 65K rpm? If so, that means you have config error (software settings problem) which you need to address before you can continue.

99.99% of all problems we see are either improper assembly or incorrect settings. One guy shorted 12v to 5v and fried some stuff on his module, but these things have been rock solid.

You know what's sad? Matt's sitting next to me in the van, we're sharing the same mobile broadband connection and talking to each other as we ride down the road, and we still managed to double reply to the same thread.

Well whatever, that's some good customer service right. :brain:

Wow. Thanks for the replies.
I'll turn off the Tach output and see what happens.
I should be at the car in about an hour.

How would I get a usable Tach signal back though if that is the issue?

Thanks again!

It runs!

I turned off the Tach output and also disabled boost and over boost control since I'm Na and it was saying there was some conflict with the boost control.

I don't want to get too excited until it's out on the road, but thank you so much for your help!

Well the car starts, by it is running very rich and I have to work the throttle to keep It from dying. It can't idle on its own even after it's warmed up.

Would the Wells tps (if there was something wrong with it) be the cause of that?

My tuning map is almost exactly what brainiak sent me so I wouldn't think it would need heavy tuning just to keep it running. So it seems like there's some setting that needs to be changed.
Also it shows the fuel load as very high no matter what I'm doing with the throttle.

Thoughts?

Not to thread-jack too much, but I'm also having an issue with the throttle position and the DIYPNP. Mine will read some crazy number (it's gone from 400%-1200%) on the TunerStudio gauges. I have a 1.6 and I set it up by doing "Get Current" with the pedal untouched and floored. Every time I try to redo it the numbers are different. I tried inputting 255 for both, but the software says the values can't be the same.

Any idea as to why it thinks my throttle is @ 1200%? Is it even a problem? The car stumbles a lot, but that's because nothing is really tuned yet (still working out issues with the LC-1).

TPS should be unplugged on a 1.6L. The stock TPS is just a switch that MS cannot use, your DIYPNP is prewired for a VTPS signal and if you RTFM you should have seen the section in red about unplugging it like I pointed out in post #5.

Make sure that you have the MAP sensor hooked up to a port in the back of your intake manifold. After that, verify that your timing has been set correctly. If that doesn't solve it, you'll want to post a datalog and a copy of your .msq.



This car didn't have a real TPS from the factory. Have you retrofitted a variable TPS? If not, you need to immediately unplug the connector at the TPS because if wired to the MegaSquirt will create a direct short.

Map is plugged in and i calibrated the timing (fixed timing to ten and then adjusted it untill the car showed ten degrees as well). I don't know off_hand what it's running at now but I'll be sure to check that when I'm at the car next.

Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.

Yes, I did RTFM, the stock TPS was disconnected before I ever tried starting it the first time.

The concern I have is that I cannot enter "255" in both cells per the F'ing Manual because TunerStudio says both cells cannot have the same value. When I try calibrating it via the "no throttle/full throttle" method the values are different every time.

I am thinking a VTPS is probably the solution. As is the car stumbles like crazy and if I try to hold it at around 25% throttle at idle the car revs and then goes right back to idle. While driving between 2.5k-3k rpm with minimal throttle input the car bucks and stumbles all over the place. If this sounds like an issue of just needing a VTPS it looks pretty simple, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't another issue first.




FWIW I installed this by the manual TO a "T". I mean no deviations, everything was done to the letter because I don't know enough to think I know better. I understand you guys have been doing this a while, but some of us are new and are honestly trying to learn. We're not 17 year old pimple-faced retards, try to give us the benefit of the doubt that we might have RTFM and still have questions. That's my rant for the day, I think it's a fair and honest request.

Nate

It sounds like you might not have your wiring correct to the tps, if the MS is built right.
Swap your Vref, signal and gnd around at the tps location or better yet, use a multimeter to find which pin 'sweeps' (changes) resistance as you move the throttle cable at your tps switch, that should be the one going to your MS.

sorry, RTFM wasn't meant to be negative, just an easy abbreviation cause i'm too lazy to type "read the instructions I provided"

just put it at 254/255, it really doesn't matter.

so long as you're using 100% MAPdot for acceleration enrichments the throttle position should matter.

the "bucking" issue could be aggressive overrun settings and/or idle settings since they both have a throttle position as a trigger.


post up a datalog and your msq d00d.

You probably need to post a datalog and your .msq for peer review.

Sounds like you either have a broken TPS or a wiring problem.

I don't understand. You don't have a TPS on this one right? Why are you trying to calibrate it?

You should have a stabilizing resistor between TPS and Ground if you do not have a TPS on the car. The resistor value isn't too critical, just grab an extra "pull up" resistor that you didn't need when building the kit and place it between the TPS pin and a ground pin. This will "freeze" the TPS value in the MegaSquirt, preventing it from floating. If the TPS value floats too high, it could cause the MegaSquirt to go into flood clear (fuel cut) when cranking.

A couple buddies from work were helping with the car and they were also mentioning overrun. I wasn't sure how to set that or even where to find it.

How would I know if I have 100% MAPdot?

I will grab my most recent msq and post it... how do I post a link to an msq file? It's definitely running like shit in terms of idle, low throttle, and transition. Not to mention there are quite a few audible pops from the exhaust when engine braking, I mean like backfire loud.

I have the msq on my tuning laptop, if someone tells me how to post it I will load it up. I haven't run a datalog (I was concerned with AutoTune first), but I can do a quick run and get one.



Oh and I misunderstood the context of the "RTFM" comment, my bad. There just definitely seems to be a lot of throat-jumping here on n00bs, believe me I understand the frustration, but this isn't my first rodeo and I'm just trying to learn.

Well my throttle issue was the TPS was f----d. Dropped a new one in this afternoon and I was actually getting a readable throttle position!

Now, I at first had the St_SIGN fuse pulled and the car wouldn't turn over (I don't think the fuel pump was running), but when I jumped the diagnostic box (i don't know the pins off-hand) I could hear the pump running and I was finally able to get the car to start.

I've left the diagnostic box jumped because everything is working really quite well right now. Will this be an issue to keep the fuel pump running whenever the car is on? (It seems like it would be)

Is wiring in the direct connection the the fuel pump (via the light green wire under the dash) the only way to solve this fuel pump issue?

Thank You,

-Sean