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you hear the fuel pump relay clicking, cause it turns off when there's no RPMs.
do a composite log and capture the 4K dropout, see what sensor is actually cutting out (cam or crank) adjust r52 or r11 accordingly.
Looks like I'm dropping a cam signal pulse when it happens. Do I try turning r11 while the car is on? I've also heard they can get dirty and could use some cleaning. Would a dirty sensor cause this if tuning the r11 doesn't help?
i wouldn't do it with the car running, just experiment with what works best for your particular setup.
but yeah, thats cam, so r11.
maybe back it CCW 6, and then only go 2 turns CW, then 2.5, then 3. and keep going till you can hit redline. usually they need MORE turns, not less, but each car can be slightly different. make sure the other is completely backed out ccw.
i wouldn't do it with the car running, just experiment with what works best for your particular setup.
but yeah, thats cam, so r11.
maybe back it CCW 6, and then only go 2 turns CW, then 2.5, then 3. and keep going till you can hit redline. usually they need MORE turns, not less, but each car can be slightly different. make sure the other is completely backed out ccw.
Well, while this did help, I'm realizing the sync loss issue was probably caused but me trying to fix the problem I'm still facing. I get a clean signal now with no drops in anything, but I still have what feels like a redline of 4.5k. I found a potential red flag but I'm not sure if it helps, tunerstudio is reporting my rpm's at 470800.0 instead of 4708.00. What's going on here?
I figured it out! AE needed to be completely disabled so I could actually tune the thing. Once AE was disabled by doing this: Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) ? How to turn off acceleration enrichment (View topic)
[Move the MAPdot-TPSdot slider all the way over to TPS, then set the TPSdot threshold to 3276.0 (the largest value accepted). The AE isn't *technically* turned off, but there's no way it's going to actually do anything.]
I was finally able to see an effect when I pulled fuel from my VE fuel table. I had to pull a LOT from up high in order to even get it to rev freely. I interpolated quite a bit to get it to the point auto tune wasn't completely in over it's head and it's been taking over since. I can hit redline now with not-so-insane AFR readings and it's drive-able. I've still got some not super frequent cam signal dropping, but I think that's because it's set to 3 turns out. I'll need to fiddle with it some more. Thanks to everyone who has helped me, especially Brian and Peter (who isn't here but still) I wouldn't have been able to get this far. I've had this thing for over a year and a half and it crossed my mind a few times to just sell it off to someone else. Consider me squirted!
An update on things. Number-wise the car looks like it's running alright. I'm hitting decent AFR's where I'm supposed to, but man, something is just plain not right. It sounds like it has a cork in in somewhere. Running the stock ECU I can actually hear the fuel injectors chattering in relation to the throttle. Not on the megasquirt. I get the feeling some setting is holding me back from tuning my VE fuel table to the base timing map which I'd assume is what I'm supposed to be doing. It feels like the car has 60HP and someone replaced the crankcase with honey. Revving takes what feels like twice as long, and even though I'm hitting near 12ish AFR under full throttle, it literally can't pull itself up 15 degree hills in 3rd. Going back to my original issue of not being able to rev past 4.5k, using the base map with a normal looking fuel VE table it hits a wall when fuel gradually increases. The only way I could get it to rev freely was by basically decreasing the whole table to around 45 and autotune corrected the entire middle of my table to around 40. There's no gradual increase in fuel as it goes up in RPM. It's like even though the fuel ratio is good, I have a tiny amount of actual combustion which would lead me to timing right? What gets me is overall it runs well down low and it's got a somewhat drive-able powerband under 3k, (it feels like the AC and headlights are on when they're not) but no matter how I adjust the VE fuel tables It's not getting better. I understand it won't feel like stock as far as little things yet without fine-tuning, but downshifting is less powerful than shifting up to 5th. My VVT seems to be working when I watch the table, but I show a VVT1 err the MS gauges. I checked my base timing by settings it to fixed 10 degrees and verifying it with a timing light. It's spot on so I know my Ignition offset is good. Yes I made sure to change it back to "use table" and watched the table to see if it was using it. What am I missing? I took a recent log and attached it with my tune.
An update on things. Number-wise the car looks like it's running alright. I'm hitting decent AFR's where I'm supposed to, but man, something is just plain not right. It sounds like it has a cork in in somewhere. Running the stock ECU I can actually hear the fuel injectors chattering in relation to the throttle. Not on the megasquirt. I get the feeling some setting is holding me back from tuning my VE fuel table to the base timing map which I'd assume is what I'm supposed to be doing. It feels like the car has 60HP and someone replaced the crankcase with honey. Revving takes what feels like twice as long, and even though I'm hitting near 12ish AFR under full throttle, it literally can't pull itself up 15 degree hills in 3rd. Going back to my original issue of not being able to rev past 4.5k, using the base map with a normal looking fuel VE table it hits a wall when fuel gradually increases. The only way I could get it to rev freely was by basically decreasing the whole table to around 45 and autotune corrected the entire middle of my table to around 40. There's no gradual increase in fuel as it goes up in RPM. It's like even though the fuel ratio is good, I have a tiny amount of actual combustion which would lead me to timing right? What gets me is overall it runs well down low and it's got a somewhat drive-able powerband under 3k, (it feels like the AC and headlights are on when they're not) but no matter how I adjust the VE fuel tables It's not getting better. I understand it won't feel like stock as far as little things yet without fine-tuning, but downshifting is less powerful than shifting up to 5th. My VVT seems to be working when I watch the table, but I show a VVT1 err the MS gauges. I checked my base timing by settings it to fixed 10 degrees and verifying it with a timing light. It's spot on so I know my Ignition offset is good. Yes I made sure to change it back to "use table" and watched the table to see if it was using it. What am I missing? I took a recent log and attached it with my tune.
For any NB2~ers facing this same problem here's another post that appears to have the exact same setup as me having the exact same problems. Maybe together we can figure out what's going on. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...9/#post1492269
For any NB2~ers facing this same problem here's another post that appears to have the exact same setup as me having the exact same problems. Maybe together we can figure out what's going on. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...9/#post1492269
Valuable lesson learned. If you're having the same problem the same time as someone else, brainstorm with them. mrelia100 and I found out our VTCS wasn't opening by default on the trubokitty NB2 base maps. Disabling it fixed our problems completely. For my 03, to get it running to the point I could actually start tuning the thing, I had to change ALL of the following:
1: Repurpose my CEL output wire on inj E and physically swap my wiring harness as specified here:
Originally Posted by Braineack
move the INJ E wire that's used for your CEL light to 3H and change the programmable outputs for INJE to always be on when the ECU is powered.
2: Sacrifice my CEL output from inj E by disabling "warning lamp output" under alternator control:
3: Enable inj E to control the main relay in "programmable on/off outputs" Like this:
4: Set "Flip Polarity On Hi-Res Tach / Cam to "Normal"
5: Disable VTCS by turning "Active Value" off (temporarily until I figure out why it's not working like this)
I'm also temporarily using Open Loop Warmup as Idle control at the moment of this post since it was the only thing I could get it to run with before I figured out my VTCS issues. Setting it back now might work. To get a decent Idle I had to lower the entire Idle PWM chart by 38 to get what you see here:
Again, Open Loop Warmup is temporary and for babies according to Braineack.
I hope this helps someone figure out how to get their NB2 off the ground on the TruboKitty basemap. Thanks for your hard work on the base map Braineack. I know all cars aren't one size fits all. Once I made these adjustments I can tell it's only going to get better from here.
My most recent thing I'm fighting is I've got a "VVT1 err" showing in TunerStudio. Any other NB2 specific thing anyone knows about that would cause this? Looking at the VVT table it seems like it's moving along the curve.
Last edited by ungluedflyer; 09-20-2018 at 01:34 PM.
I rigged up a wastegate actuator bracket out of some metal I found on the side of the road two days ago on my way to ACE Hardware. That plus the monstrosity I deem the "Jank-pipe" hanging off the back of the turbo. Just a little 1ft bend down to my wideband bung open downpipe for the moment. It wasn't my finest welding, but considering I had a 90amp flux core Harbor Freight "welder" in hand, the fact it's on there is good enough for me at the moment.
All buttoned up! Reynolds Wrap special, ｃｕｓｔｏｍ wastegate bracket, Jank-Pipe™
Welp. Don't be an idiot like me and think you can get away with just stacking couplers together to make things fit. On the hunt for either another cheap SR20 turbo or doing a complete rebuild on this thing with a new compressor wheel depending on how bad the housing is. Glad I'm not one of those who decided not to run an intercooler. It acted as a metal chunk filter and saved my engine. I'll be running N/A for a bit.
Nope! I wasn't thinking. I guess my thought process was something like "well since it's before the turbo I don't have to worry about boost leaks" Other than eyeballing it is there an easy way to tell how straight the shaft is? Debating getting another turbo altogether but if this one is salvageable I'll throw a billet compressor wheel on it and rebuild the CHRA with new seals. I'm also wondering how the housing fared since chunks of fins came off at fairly high speed. Wouldn't a scored housing effect spool?
Originally Posted by Colipto
Wow thats one hell of a lesson.. That was pretty dumb..
How else am I supposed to learn not to do stupid things? Common sense?
Well, all things considered the car has been running pretty good, even after the turbo got hungry. Megasquirt has been a cool introduction to EFI and I'm glad I've gotten into it. I see why you nerds obsessively perfect your tunes to make it THAT little bit better. I've been daily driving my car 'squirted for several months now. Short of my stupid preventable mistakes it's been reliable. Getting to taste 8psi for the first time makes me want to build a forged block to have ready and turn it up when it's ready. It's awesome being able to play with 350Z's and NORMAL cars on the road. Out of curiosity If I wanted to turn this into sort of a build thread, can I? Or should I just start a new one instead?
07-07-2018, 03:40 PM
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