hmm my AEM is off by .1-.2 from MS to the AEM, currently its grounded to ECU adapter harness, but I'm gonna try firewall and parrlel wire running with it as well
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Originally Posted by Techsalvager
(Post 717325)
hmm my AEM is off by .1-.2 from MS to the AEM, currently its grounded to ECU adapter harness, but I'm gonna try firewall and parrlel wire running with it as well
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 717135)
I shake my head whenever I see newbie-engineer errors such as what AEM has done to their gauge and what I found when hacking their miata ECU.
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I've tried several times to resolve the problem with my car; by changing grounds, adjusting the MS's AFR calibration, and even bought a 2nd wideband that did the same thing. My gauge is reading almost a 1 point discrepancy, gauge reads richer than MS.
I just wanted to clarify... In the event that there is a discrepancy between the AEM gauge and MS, it is assumed that the AEM gauge face is correct. Is that right? I finally gave up on actually fixing the issue and adjusted my target tables a point leaner than they should be. I'd hate to think I'm tuning to a 12.5 afr at wot. |
A multimeter tells the tale. MS has an offset.
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 723782)
What did you find by hacking their miata ECU? Anything that should/could easily be "fixed" by the end user?
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Pulling a Jesus on this thread, but I now have the same issue. The discrepancy in my readings is of ~1.3 points. Which gauge reads correct? I dont see an answer for Pdexta. My WB is a PLX300 btw. :wavey:
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 826103)
Pulling a Jesus on this thread, but I now have the same issue. The discrepancy in my readings is of ~1.3 points. Which gauge reads correct? I dont see an answer for Pdexta. My WB is a PLX300 btw. :wavey:
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DMM's solve all voltage offset problems...
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I recently soldered all ground wires to ring connectors (rather than crimping only) and suddenly, the old offset in my WBO2 is gone. :wiggle:
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Originally Posted by Dem768
(Post 826116)
I solved my problem by running the ground to the same source as my ECU. It still wasn't perfect but it was damn close. I also suggest compensating for the reading in your AFR target table.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 826123)
DMM's solve all voltage offset problems...
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 826132)
I recently soldered all ground wires to ring connectors (rather than crimping only) and suddenly, the old offset in my WBO2 is gone. :wiggle:
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WB is the correct reading
if there is different reading in TS thats because of a voltage difference from the output of the wideband to the megasquirt. |
Originally Posted by Techsalvager
(Post 826171)
WB is the correct reading
if there is different reading in TS thats because of a voltage difference from the output of the wideband to the megasquirt. |
You need to measure the voltage input into the MS. But you need to reference it against what the PLX is sending.
for exmaple, if you know the PLX should be at 5v and the MS is only getting 4.5v, you can recalibrate the MS to properly read and interperate the signal. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 826183)
You need to measure the voltage input into the MS. But you need to reference it against what the PLX is sending.
for exmaple, if you know the PLX should be at 5v and the MS is only getting 4.5v, you can recalibrate the MS to properly read and interperate the signal. Me is a :noob: |
oh youre still on one of those acient msI machines.
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 826103)
Which gauge reads correct?
All else being equal, the analog ground for the wideband controller should always be connected to the same ground as the ECU uses for its analog sensors. Ideally, the wideband ground will actually be connected directly to a ground pin at the ECU. Why not give it the "best" ground possible? Because if the ECU itself is experiencing any kind of ground offset, you want the wideband controller to experience the same offset. That way, the two devices are "in sync" with one another. On my cars, I have always either spliced into an ECU ground wire, or double-crimped the wideband analog ground directly into one of the ECU's own ground pins. In cases where the wideband system has a seperate ground for the heater, this can be run directly to the engine. This is contrary to Innovate's instructions, however as Ben stated earlier, I believe they state this only to make the instructions simpler for people. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 826209)
oh youre still on one of those acient msI machines.
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 826213)
When there is a conflict between what is seen on the gauge itself and what is displayed by the ECU, always trust the gauge, and assume that there is a calibration or ground offset problem.
All else being equal, the analog ground for the wideband controller should always be connected to the same ground as the ECU uses for its analog sensors. Ideally, the wideband ground will actually be connected directly to a ground pin at the ECU. Why not give it the "best" ground possible? Because if the ECU itself is experiencing any kind of ground offset, you want the wideband controller to experience the same offset. That way, the two devices are "in sync" with one another. On my cars, I have always either spliced into an ECU ground wire, or double-crimped the wideband analog ground directly into one of the ECU's own ground pins. In cases where the wideband system has a seperate ground for the heater, this can be run directly to the engine. This is contrary to Innovate's instructions, however as Ben stated earlier, I believe they state this only to make the instructions simpler for people. |
Logworks is the most accurate correct? I have TunerStudio and LogWorks displaying within 0.1 of each other, but my analog gauge is reading ~0.3/0.4 off. My grounding is superb. Thanks WB gurus.
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so alter the output voltge range on that channel until it matches better.
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