It worked, now I get no signal.
 

I tried to start the car today in the morning. The engine turns, but it does not crank. I noticed I did not hear the beep from the fuel pump when the key in on the ignition. I then saw that the lights on the MS would not light up as they are supposed to once the key is in the ignition.

So, what's the deal? I last drove the car Saturday night. It has been sitting since then. Should I reload the firmware?

Try to even connect to it, you shouldn't need to reload firmware.

if the engine is turning then it is cranking....you mean it doesn't fire? if so, we know your starter and ign. switch still work.

Will do. What if I get no communication with the laptop?

cry? figure out why it's not getting power.

Fack me! :cry:

Look under your name on here and look at the picture. That will explain why it does not work.

^^ Haha

Well I figured out. A fuse in the engine bay shorted. IDK which one exactly because the diagram on the box cover faded. Is a 30A in front of the headlight motor fuse.

The problem now is that the car is literally gone to shit. That weekend Dan (dxpe) and I swapped the clutch in my car. Afterward I drove the car home and it was fine.

Now my AFR are completely fucked, clt temps on TS are fucked (oscillates from 315 to 215, and sets at 170 when the car is off), and for some odd reason the car is spitting water out into the reservoir from the radiator.

WTF??

I've done a little research and it seems that my stock radiator cap isn't cutting it anymore. I say this because there's no smoke, nor consumption of water. I also think "burping" the system will help with the reservoir overflowing.

I need help figuring out the problem with the MS though. Any suggestions as to why the gauges are going crazy?

bad grounding and air pockets in your coolant causing it to freak out.

didnt your water pump take a dump on you

It seems, but I'm wondering if its more than just the grounding. Everything worked fine till the headlight crushed the MAF connector.

I thought so because the first time I had the reservoir overflow was when the alternator belt snapped. I had the same thing happened to me a few days ago, but the belt was still there. I opened the radiator an let it run without the car and there was a current so I figured that the wp was still functioning.

I later read a bit other threads and it seems more what Brain says than a wp, or a hg.

Coolant temps are either because of bad grounds or flashed the wrong values. MS should not ever read coolant or air temps above 215 because of memory addressing issues.

I'm almost sure is grounding. Everything worked good before I fucked with the clutch.

Did you mess with the grounding wire from the head to the driver side firewall area when doing the clutch?

I could've accidentally since messing with the downpipe was a nightmare. I really haven't even looked at the car. I'll probably start fixing on Thursday. I have a test tomorrow that I need to study for.