Q for Wideopentuning
 

Hey Kelly,

I have an Aquamist WI with a HSV (high speed valve) that is being controlled by the Split Second AIC along with my 5th injector.

Recently, I ran out of water while driving home and I thought I mucked up my Aquamist pump as I couldn't pull over on the freeway fast enough. It turns out that I had a leak at the quick release L joint (i'm using the WW bottle).

Now I'm thinking about getting the DO 2.5 gallon tank along with the Shurflo pump installed in the trunk as a priming pump and the Aquamist as the main pump.

Aquamist suggests I use a priming relay driver (806-500) to activate the Shurflo in the trunk.

http://www.urdusa.com/images/806-500-lg.JPG

I'd also like to wire up something like this to have a LED light up when the pump is running and another LED for when the tank is running low and to shut off the relay when the water level is low.

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/fitt.../dash-led2.GIF

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/fitting/dash/dash.GIF

Can you PM me and LMK how much the parts for all of this would cost?

*Shurflo pump
*2.5 gallon tank (and fitting. The aquamist pump uses a 6mm line FYI)
*Fluid level switch
*Green LED (If DO does not have the LEDs, what/where would would I get one?)
*Yellow LED

Also, any help in decyphering how to wire the above diagrams would be most helpful.

TIA

Chuck

The wiring is very easy. Ignore the top diagram, because it is the same thing as the bottom diagram. All you'll need is 2 leds, a diode, and 2 resistors (though the wiring diagram shows only 1 resistor, you will need 2). Those parts will cost you almost nothing at a Radio Shack. You use the resistors in series with the leds because the leds require little voltage to light.

One led (and resistor) is wired in series with the float switch. When the float drops, it will complete the circuit and activate the led. The second led (and resistor) is wired across the pressure switch the same way the pump is wired to it. This led is activated by the pressure switch when the switch tells the pump to fire.

When you have the resistors and diodes in your hand, you will see how easy it will be to wire them up. If you can install the AIC and WI system, this will be a breeze.

Ben,

I can follow directions very well, but I'm also electrically challenged. Do you know EXACTLY what I need to get from Radio Shack? Parts numbers, or voltage, etc.?

Thanks for your help.

I PMed you. For anyone looking for LEDs check out www.superbrightleds.com

http://www.superbrightleds.com/produ...by/ledwire.jpg

Is this all I need?

Obviously you will need 2 of those. And a diode.

30ga is very very thin wire. Hard to work with in an automotive environment thin. You'll want a small spool of 14-18ga (whatever you can get cheap).

The diagram says any diode, so if I went to Radio Shack and asked for a couple of diodes, I'll be ok?

Thanks Ben.

Yes. All the diode does is prevent a "back" flow of electricity.
diode:electrical circuit :: check valve:hydraulic circuit

You could pick one up at rat shack, or even just order a third led. led stands for light emitting diode. It's a standard diode that happens to glow when electricity runs through it.

Does anyone know if the Aquamist 6mm hose is directly compatible with the Shurflo? If not, what would I need to connect the two?

Thanks

Here's another stupid question: WTF is a 470R in the diagram?

And Ben, I got the WI kit used and it was removed with all the wiring in place. All I had to do was connect the power, ground and the 2 injector wires to the WI. Otherwise, I would have been e-mailing Richard Lamb (at Aquamist) for weeks asking inane questions. More inane questions I should say. lol

470 Ohm resistor. All the resistor does is create a voltage drop. Think of it like a restrictor in an oil supply line.

Any resistor around 400-500 Ohms will work.

Ah, and to save you from having issues later, a resistor can be hooked up facing either direction and work fine. A diode must be forward biased. The diode has 2 leads, anode (+) and cathode (-). The anode usually has the long lead and cathode the short lead. In the schematic, the base of the triangle is the anode side. The point of the triangle is the cathode.

This sounds important. I'll have to read it a few times before I fully understand it.

Thanks again Ben.