UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

i have basic kit which im going to install today. how the hell do i connect that pressure switch? i remember someone mentioned to me that i need to use an automotive 12v relay but i cant find the diagram :/

can someone help me really quick? it is going in in about 4 hours from now so fast response would be gladly appreciated!

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

OK you take a positive on 1 side and a negative on the other. Then run a vac line to the nipple. The switches themselves are robust enough, to handle the laod of the pump. I run mine direct off the battery from a fused source btw.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Assuming you have a Devil's Own base kit (you didn't specify mfg.), you follow the diagram on Page 4 of the instructions.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

so there are 3 wires on that switch:
ign +12v
neg -12v
pump +12v

right?

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

that relay is a piece i didnt get with my kit for some reason.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

gotcha... so i should connect pressure switch inline into +12v wire going from pump. do i need to pump fuse between switch and pump or between switch and +12v ign?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

No but i like to run one the pump is like 8 amps max i think but just incase i get a short, the 15 amp fuse will blow. And not my pump Between the 12V source and the pump.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Notice that the three terminals on the switch are labeled NC, NO, and COM. That's Normally Closed, Normally Open, and Common.

When the switch is at rest (not under pressure, the "normal" state) the COM terminal is connected to the NC terminal. We don't care about this condition, so ignore the NC terminal altogether. Nothing goes to it.

When the switch is under pressure, COM is connected to NO. That's the contact we care about.

Now, if you chose to wire this direct (no relay) then connect a line from the battery, through a fuse, to the NO terminal. Then a line from the COM terminal to the pump red wire. Then ground the pump black wire. Know that in this configuration, when the switch fails from the load of the pump welding the contacts together, the pump will run endlessly until you pull out the fuse.


If you chose to run the relay (which you should) then do the following:

From a fused, switched +12 source (such as the feed to the radio) run a wire to terminal 86 of the relay (the coil + terminal). Run a wire from relay terminal 85 (coil -) to the NO terminal on the switch. Run a wire from the COM terminal of the switch to ground. Now, run a line from the battery, through a fuse, and to terminal 30 of the relay (the COM contact of the relay's internal switch). Last, run ye olde wire from relay terminal 87 (the NO contact of the relay's internal switch) to the red wire on the pump, and ground the pump's black wire.


Note that you can pick up a common 20A automotive relay at any auto parts store.

Note that I have deliberately reversed the polarity of the switch (COM vs. NO) relative to the Devils' Own diagram. If you wire it their way, the switches' unprotected NC terminal will have +12 on it whenever the car is not in boost. I consider this a slightly dangerous condition.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

thanks a bunch!
i will pick up a relay on my way home. it seems like the only way to go.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Update? C'mon, tell us everything.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

yes urban do tell we are dieng to see the results

Kelly

iTrader: (6)

If you purchased the kit through me I need to refund you for the relay you bought. Sorry about that not being included. The kits have so many pieces that stuff doesn't get put in every once in a while.