Adjustable Sway Bar End Links ($75 shipped)
 

I design and fabricate adjustable endlinks for various different cars. I normally sell them on ebay. I'm sure some of you have seen them before if you were looking.

I sell them on ebay for $87 shipped for a pair. I am extending an offer to any MT.net member for $75 shipped. (within continental US). I can ship outside of the US, but shipping cost will be adjusted accordingly.

I have enough material in stock right now to put together 10 or so sets. I also have two different length links. One for stock ride height cars and one for lowered cars.

Being that I am selling these for pretty much cost, I am going to ask that you pay an additional 3% if paying via paypal to cover their costs. ($77.25)

I ship via USPS priority mail so it doesn't take longer than 3 days to get to you.

If there is enough of a desire, I can put together sets with hardware for a few dollars more. Let me know if that is something you would like to see.

Here are some pictures...

http://tidewatersportscarclub.com/SHAWN/EL1.JPG

http://tidewatersportscarclub.com/SHAWN/EL2.JPG

http://tidewatersportscarclub.com/SHAWN/EL3.jpg

My end links will work on all of the following cars:

90-97 Mazda Miata (Direct replacement)
99-05 Mazda Miata (Additional hardware req'd)**
86-92 Mazda RX-7 (Direct replacement)
03+ Mazda RX-8 (Additional hardware req'd)**

** If you are using them on a 99-05 Miata or a RX-8, you will need to purchase 4-10mm bolts that are 40mm long as well as 4 nuts (Locking nuts are recommended). I would use a partially threaded bolt so you have a solid shoulder for the bearing to ride on. You can see an example of what I am talking about if you go to www.mcmaster.com and type in part number 95327A622. This hardware can be purchased at your local hardware store.

Each end link is built using high quality metric spherical rod ends and can be installed using your existing hardware, except where noted above. Installation time will vary with the experience and tools of the installer, but should not take longer than 2 hours per set.

Each rod end’s housing is made from chrome moly steel for incredible strength and then chrome plated and polished to a bright luster. It features a Teflon bearing race that provides dampening to alleviate noise and vibration. Each rod end’s ball is made of low carbon steel that is hardened for wear resistance and plated for corrosion resistance.

The turnbuckle is made from aircraft quality 6061-T6 aluminum that is anodized black to make the end links look as good as they work.

What makes my end links different from most others that you can find?

1. Metric (10mm) - As Mazda intended. The mounting holes on your sway bars and control arms are designed for 10mm bolts, why would you install end links that use SAE 3/8 rod ends and hardware.
2. Adjustable while installed – My end links utilize right hand thread as well as left hand thread rod ends with a threaded turnbuckle that connect the two. You can simply turn the 16mm hex on the aluminum turnbuckle to lengthen or shorten the end link as required. No need to remove the end link to make the adjustment, it can be done in place.
3. Custom made spacers that allow full rotation of the rod end. No chance of binding with these.

1 set (2 end links and spacers) will work for your front “or” rear sway bar. You will need to purchase 2 sets if you want them for your front “and” rear sway bars.

Quality stuff I've seen it.

Thanks Mike!

I have added some pictures of the end links in the original post.

what is the minimum length on the set for lowered cars and what will it extend to?

..yeah how much adjustabilty is there? OR, how much if any is needed? Either way i'm in for a set of the small ones for lowered cars. Pm pending....

The stock height links have an adjustment range of 4.5-5.5 inches.

The lowered ride height links have an adjustment range of 3.875-4.875 inches.

You only need about 0.25 inches of adjustment max to remove the preload.



A lot of people don't understand the benefit of adjustable endlinks. They are not for looks, although the do look kinda cool. They have a purpose. The idea is to get rid of the preload on the sway bar with the driver in the car.

Miatas have a tendency to lock up the passenger side front wheel under hard braking. One of the reasons for this is that the when you get in the car, your weight preloads the driver's side of the sway bar and therefore lightens the opposite side. Less weight on that side of the car = less friction between the tire and the road and therefore brake lock up (smoke).

I'm sure if you have ever been to an autocross, you have seen a Miata lock up the PS front wheel.

If you adjust the end links with the driver or driver's equivalent weight in the driver's seat, you eliminate the preload.

Not only does the getting rid of the preload aid in braking, it also increases the usefulness of the sway bar. Think about making a left hand turn with the swaybar preloaded by the driver's weight. You will have a slight delay before the sway bar starts working so that the weight can transfer. The delay will be thousandths of a second, but those of you that race know that thousandths of a second is the difference between 1st and 2nd quite often.

If the sway bar is in a neutral static state with the driver in the car, there should be no delay in the sway bar reaction.

PM sent

Shawn, will you be offering these in the future? I'd really like a set because I can't stand how early the front pass locks up, but I'm just tapped out between Christmas and my motor parts. Plus I've got a set of FM sways I need to install.

Yes I should have them in the future. I have been making/selling them for about a year now and plan to continue.

Rappadan and Paul,
I replied to your PMs and have your endlinks packed and ready to ship.

+1

i'm up for a set but not now maybe in like a month if you still have some

drop the ball?

Just a question here...
If we make these assumptions true:
-driving alone preloads the swaybar
-preloading the swaybar causes the pass front wheel to lock up early under braking
-installing an adjustable endlink set removes the preload
Then:
-a car equipped with properly installed adjustable endlinks won't lock up pass front early
So:
-what happens to the same car with properly installed adjustable endlinks when the car is occupied by a driver and passenger? would the front driver's side lock early?

Please forgive the possibly stupid question. I understand that these things work, but I haven't grasped the physics involved explaining the why and how.

Ben,
I wish it was a simple explanation, but its not and is going to vary from car to car.

The Miata tends to be about 7-8% lighter at the FR wheel in stock form (from my weighing experiences). Removing this preload from the sway bar lessens this percentage, but does not eliminate it. A simple example would be shown if you weigh your car with the sway bar connected and then disconnected to see how much preload the sway bar is applying. Depending on your car, you may still get lock up under extreme braking, but the lock up will occur at a later point and/or under more force.

Now I have never weighed a car with anybody in the passenger seat, but I have had a passenger in my car out on track. I can't recall ever locking up just the driver's side tire while on track. When lock up occurs, it normally occurs with both front tires with a passenger.

The logical physics based explanation that you derived of this scenario is correct, but the values of the equation are skewed.

Hope this clears things up a little.

Paul and rappadan,
Thank you for your orders. If you would like, feel free to let everybody know what you think of the links, good or bad. I take criticism well, but please remember I have your address. :D

Back to the top.

They're back on ebay...not as much interest here as I had hoped for.

I think its cause most people already know about http://www.mcmaster.com/

lol
i think it's just timing man. rods, clutches, christmas...
i want a set, just can't justify it right now.

same here. Just too many other priorites atm..

Try to build a set of my end links using mcmaster parts. It's not possible.

You can buy a male and female rod ends and thread them into each other. You could also use washers as spacers.

With this method, adjusting them would be a PITA and you are guaranteed to bind during transition. Ask me how I know?

The metric rod ends at mcmaster are cheapie oil impregnated, linerless, zinc plated crap. You will hear the quality within a few months of purchase.

I have my turnbuckles and spacers CNC'd to my specifications and my rod ends are much, much higher quality.

If you would like, I can put together a list of mcmaster parts if you would rather go that route.

What rod ends do you use? Do they have teflon lined races? I just priced building some with right and left hand threaded QA1 teflon lined rod ends and right/left hand threaded McMaster Carr 6061 AL turnbuckle and the total comes to $78.16 without the spacers and jam nuts or shipping, so I think your price is more than fare if you are using qulity teflon lined rod ends. I need a new set for the ES car since I have the crappy AWR ones that are clacking like mad now. I will pick a set of yours up after I get paid next week.

I would do tube inserts, one lh and one rh rod end (and they have high strength ones, or I would get them from aurora rod ends) and voila. Add some jam nuts (30 cents) and your done.

I made the same thing for a four link last year.

My rod ends have a chromolly housing and teflon race. The typical cheapie way to go is a mild steel housing and oil impregnated bearing.

To be honest ive only used teflon rod bearings.

If you can find a 2" turnbuckle or (tube insert) with RH/LH 10mm threaded ends off the shelf, please let me know. It would save me a bunch of money and reduce the cost of the end links. I have to have mine made.

Also if you can find somewhere that has LH 10mm lock nuts for 30 cents, hook me up. I pay over $1 for each LH lock nut.

Why two in turn buckle?

And why are you paying so much for nuts? You can get backs of 100 for 10 bucks.

And Poly bushing rod ends for 10 bucks each. I can make these for 40 bucks (including buying 100 lock nuts)

I think your offering is good, Im just letting people know theres another option there. Although I guess its limited to people who can weld.

That's the smallest possible. The standard ride height links have a 2.625" turnbuckle, but if installed on a lowered car with a big bar and sticky tires, theres a chance of the sway bar hitting the upper control arm.

Left Hand 10mm x 1.5 Jam nuts? Please tell me where.

Why are you using metric?

I dont see any reason to used metric or anything above grade 2

90083A227 mcmaster part number I would do it SAE, but easier to get parts.

And for the spacers i would just use tubing

Tube insert is only 3/4 of a inch aroundish, you can make the tube to whatever length you want.

Im not being a dick, I am just saying there are other ways to do things

I may have a source. Fine or coarse thread?

I propose a build-off. LOKI v. 4WHLS

Loki, how much could you put a set together for?

40 bucks i think, but i don't need one. I will get all the parts list together and someone can make one.

Nevermind, the shortest I can get them is 70mm @ $7.10 each through Misumi.

You are installing spherical bearing for two reasons:

1. Adjustability to remove preload
2. Increased response time, due to not having to wait for rubber to compress.

A SAE 3/8 rod end is 0.375", A 10mm is 0.394". That's 0.019" of slop. Think how fast the component will wear with that slop.

I don't know how much the rubber in OE end links compress, but if you are waiting for the transition of 0.019", how much of a benefit are the end links.

If that slop were in a hole for a bolt holding on a fender, I don't think it's that big of a deal. For a suspension component, I feel it's drastic, but to each their own.

I would just put a bigger bolt though it. No slop 1/2 the price

I got mine yesterday. awesome craftmanship. Good quality product. Will update later when there installed.

OK here is a break down to make 25 sets (so no waste on nuts or spacers) of 3/8" rod ends using McMaster Carr parts.

50 3/8" teflon lined rod ends, RH @ $12.78 ea. - $639.00
50 3/8" teflon lined rod ends, LH @ $12.78 ea. - $639.00
50 3/8" Turnbuckles w/ RH and LH Threads @ $13.52 ea. - $676.00
50 3/8" LH jam nuts (bag quantity) @ $11.24
100 3/8" RH jam nuts (bag quantity) @ $10.66
6' of tubing for spacers (shortest you can buy) @ $32.09
______________________________
Total - $2007.99

So for 25 sets, you would have $80.32 per set in materials plus labor to cut the spacers and a few inches of tubing and 50 RH nuts left. I think Shawn is offering us a bargain for correctly sized (10 mm) endlinks.

Yup, can't do better than then Shawn. There are just other options out there.

Again, when i get home i will price it up. I disagree with your bill of material Sbrian2. I see 150 bucks of bloat in it as we speak.

I'm curious to see what you come up with. I agree there are other options as you say, but I don't see how they make sense given the option lying before us.

Back to the top!

Sorry guys I was busy. But i happened to run across this. Look down through the page. Basically my idea. If they are doing this and making a profit cheaper than Shawn, people can make their own for way cheaper.

Just letting everyone know

http://www.advanced-autosports.com/p...ing_wheels.htm