The Aliens are BACK!!!!
 

http://www.flyinmiata.com/dealoftheday/index.php


http://www.flyinmiata.com/dealofthed...s/00-00012.jpg


call at 10:30 if you're on the East Coast.

What pisses me off is they are selling them cheaper than the rebuild kit I just bought.

This has to be a marketing tactic to undervalue Begi products. Great deal though!

I don't understand why anyone runs fmu/aux fuelpumps and timing retard systems... when real tuning options exist :p

Icky icky.

I bet they've got a pile of parts they've pulled while upgrading customers' vehicles taking up a lot of space. At a cost of $0 and in the way of new product, they sell em cheap to get em gone.

I've run into the same issue in my trade. Sometimes I get to keep the customer's old equipment... but if I don't have an immediate need for it, I'll give it away so I don't have to look at it.

$25 - SOLD OUT!
The Freakin Aliens already went to thier home planet.

I wonder what FM is going to do for a low(ish) boost solution? I can't imagine paying for a link on an 8PSI setup.

cause we can and it works. I'm not ruling out other options, but for what you can do, it's not a bad direction.

But just because it works.... doesn't mean its good. A real tuning system can pull so much more out of a setup and gain so much reliability back... its hard to ignore.

:bigtu: I got me a UFO!

what are these real tuning options you talk about?

Megasquirt.:bowdown:

Braineack, you seem like you could easily handle a MS install.

hmm... why would anyone spend $300-500 on a system that's 90% as good as a $2000-2500 standalone?

Maybe I'd rather do something besides create maps?

How did we get onto Topography? :inout:

Why did you give in to him and ask, he was just fishing for someone to ask. :drama:

And being able to do something doesnt mean people would want to. I know I can do a megasquirt but I don't want to do.

I am a real whiz with my soldering iron now. Engine Management is something I'll be looking into down the road. However, one of my goals was to get a good deal of power without such. I can probably squeeze about 200-240rwhp out of this setup without the need. No it's not "ideal" but it works and it's a perfectly good tune.

one question. Without an afpr or fmu, how does one raise fuel pressure on a Turboed system?

If you're running a particular management to run large injectors you may only need 50psi of fuel throughout, so no need to raise pressures.

got it!

You don't necessarily have to. You definately need more fuel for your forced induction, but there are various ways of doing this depending on your particular car and how much money you are willing to spend.

On our fi miatas, the most cost effective way to is a fmu and pump. You get more fuel flow at the expense of very high fuel pressures. Tuning is limited, but it works well for most set ups.

The standalones will allow you to run much larger injectors (440-550cc vs 210-240) without the need to boost pressure.

Naah ... they sell all sorts of things as deal of the day - nothing to do with undervaluing Begi products (esp. something that is tried and proven).

Its more a way of driving people to their website (be honest now - who checks *most* days to see what the deal of the day is). Then people see the news about the new turbo kit etc etc etc and endup buying a ton of FM stuff thats not at DOTD pricing. Simple marketing.

If they were selling the BEGI AFPRs for $100 then I'd say they were just clearing stock. But selling for $25 is some sort of fuck you to BEGI I think. I suspect that Mr Bell has told FM that he will no longer supply them with anything, including the AFPR.

Jay

flyin miata never really bought the afpr's though. they are just ones that were pulled off customer cars i'm sure. what caused the falling out between them in the first place?

If they were NIB, then I agree. But they're not. They are pulls from cars that came in with them, but rolled out with Links and Hydras. It's a free $25 for FM--on top of profit received from both their original sale and standalone install.

edited

Heh, the guys sticking by the fmu/bipes etc setups sound like the turbo honda guys a few years ago with their vafc hacks and fmu/aux pump setups. Better options came along... and people took awhile to realize the gains to be seen across the board.

Just wait... it'll happen ;)

no we understand that there are things that are more efficient, don't get me wrong, but those other things have the cost deterant. Also while some ECUs aren't that complicated, the fpr and bipes, is alot less complicated.

And the point of this is what? Those of us who haven't bought into the Megasquirt are idiots who haven't seen the light yet?

All of these things are just tools to get a job done. Why some people feel so strongly about there solution is beyond me. The MS might be great, but at this point I don't care as my bandaid solution gets me to where I want to be with very little fuss.

Jay

seems like I got the guy on the right. Doesn't look like a BEGI unit, anyone know what it is?

Since when did the megasquirt geeks start acting like the link snobs?

Keep workin on your squirt. I'll be driving.

You got it already? It's the older pre billet model. It will work fine. Looks like the better deal of the two because it's complete.

yep just got it today. it's not complete. Didn't come with the bottom barbs, wonder why.

They must have had more than what was pictured. I don't know what size fittings you need, but I'm sure you can get them locally.

Nor did mine.... just get two 1/8" to 5/16" fittings, no biggie.

man it was such a pita to get the 1/8"-5/16" fittings... found a source locally, but it's like 30 mins away :\ Interesting enough, there is pipe thread tape residue on the afpr. I thought that was a no-no. Braineack, they sell the dixon gauges you were looking for, though it's special order.

pepboys, ace, lowes, home depot, autozone should all carry the fittings.

I used teflon tape on mine (without it they leaked). But I wrapped them in a manner that it couldn't enter the fuel stream.

I found a local source for good pressure gauges finally.

Home Depots over here don't carry 1/8"-5/16". The nearest Lowes is like 30min away, nearest autozone is as well, and same with pepboys.

San Francisco doesn't like big boxes, so you have to go out to the 'burbs :(.

'cause it was $25 :gay:

I forgot that my FPR is not real. Its just some POS UFO that looks neat. I just bought it so that I could have more bling under the hood. I have run an FPR setup for over 4 years, I dont see any reliability issues, care to explain them please.:ugh2:

replace "reliability" with "more tuneability" and you could have a winning argument.

But then again, just because a piggyback/ems works doesn't mean it's totally necessary.

Sigh, I like how I am being attacked by everyone and their mother who use's an fmu.

Tunable options (not just changing rising rates or standardized retard systems) will ALWAYS be able to extract more power all across the board... and create a more reliable system.

That is ALL I am trying to say.

I'm talking of the many tunable options out there... MS (which I never mentioned directly... but apparently I'm an MS snob), AEM, Emanage(not full system, but still better), Link, Hydra, etc....

Its all well and good that the fmu/afpr/etc can work to get a car running and decently... but why "cheap" out on the part that is the most significant? A build is only as good as its tune... an amazing parts list can have so so results if handled with generic adjustments.

I'm sorry I said anything though... I had thought with the older crowd here.. I would not be attacked with such lack of willingness to listen to other options/views.

I'll just go back to the MS forum here I guess.

btw braineack: I use the word reliability not to cover just the components... like fmu failures and such. But the entire system... especially the motor (the heart of the entire car). A full tune... will always create a more well balanced and longer lasting car. Always... I'm sorry if people do not agree... but there is a reason why high end cars end up at tuners shops... because they have the ability to get the most power out of a setup... and then (the good ones)... make it reliable.

ok

when you make 300 whp on the stock ecu then you might know as much as andy on this it can be done for less and still work reliably. the ecus are only neccesarry past 400cc in my opinion or 310 or so whp. with the fpr of course without the fpr you better get something to run some 650's to be happy with the same headroom. you arent a ms snob you are just to cautiuos live a little if it breacks fix it and make it better if it aint broke then dont fix it.

high end cars end up in tunner shops becouse people who own them ahve a lack of mechanical ability or will to wrench, and enough money to have soemone else do it for them. you might not be perfect at it at first but they werent either. so pratice on a moderate scale and replaceable system like a NA miata 1.6 or simialar and build up from there talent is there or it isnt but the skill is alot practice and research.

I dont dog on ems upgrades. Only that a fmu/bipes can work great up to a certain extent. I plan on doing an ecu upgrade down the road. But to say it's more reliable isn't really correct. I think saying it's more tuneable and adjustable is more acurate.

I could run this setup for years and years without a glitch, heck corky is building his new kits this way, with only the option to run Xede.

Do I have lots of adjustability? no. Can I get rid of my rich AFR after 5.5k? not easily. Can I run higher PSI? not really. Was that my goal? not yet.

A lot of guys here are looking to piece together systems and make around 160-170hp or so. I'll always recommend and easy setup for them, no reason to complicate things. Yes you can do a lot more, but technically a fmu/bipes setup can work just as well.

I'm not trying to attack you at all, but sometimes I feel like ecus are overkill. Not all the time, not at all. I was in awe when I witnessed Tom's and Bruce's GReddied miatas make over 200hp on 1.8 injectors, with perfectly flat AFRs.

I can currently run 305 injectors at 100psi and get enough headroom for around 275BHP, I don't see to need to upgrade yet. I could for sure squeeze a little more power out of the system, and I could benefit from pulling fuel in the upper rpm ranges. I really think it depends on the users goals, $$$, and how much automotive knowhow they have.

And besides, if I agree with you all the time then it's just no fun. :gay: Seriously, I hope there are no hard feelings.

Good everyone made nicey....