TheBlack7

What's best for sealing the heater hose fitting/CLT? Teflon tape ok?

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

or paste

LownSlow616

how the hell am i supposed to fit a hose and a clamp over that barb? theres like 20 thou between the barb and that "thing" on the head

LownSlow616

Anyone? Am I missing something obvious?

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Out of curiosity, what head is this? BP4W?

LownSlow616

Yeah. Stock '99 head. Has anyone ever removed that whole thing from the head? If my head wasnt already bolted to the block I would just hack that piece off and have the hole welded shut.

I know space is tight back there but this has to be a design flaw. There is no way a hose is going on that housing. I also learned the kia housing is actually too big for our hoses regardless




And no, my badass plastic calipers arent for sale

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

That goes to the oil warmer, you've omitted this?

Can't help on the clearance issue.

LownSlow616

Yeah. Only coolant lines i have are rad in/out and turbo in/out

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I don't think so. On my other car I put the hose on then put the engine in but it's pretty well understood putting the hose on is a bitch. I have both Bandits and Skou's spacer and Skou's is a bit thicker (.060" maybe).

Don't know the wall thickness of the nipple that causes the problem otherwise if it was thick enough you could cut some off for clearance. I debated trying it but not in the mood to create maybe extra work if I cut through the wall. Maybe someone knows?

LownSlow616

I need to just hack it off flush with the head, put engine+stand in truck, drive to welder, and get it plugged

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't put that much heat on the head.

Why not cut + drill/tap + plug?

The hose becomes a GM Escalade part number. Google...

LownSlow616

I guess id just like to minimize the amount of shavings i make inside the engine. Even if it is only coolant.

So that gm hose is 4mm bigger on one end vs the other? I just think its silly that everyone uses that kia housing when its not even for the same hose size as our cars

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I have no idea other than when you cut the other end everything fits and clamps with no leaks.

LownSlow616

ive made up my mind. i want to drive my damn car. im going to have to cut that nipple off and drill/tap/plug the head. Either an npt plug and jb weld/thread sealant or a metric plug with a crush washer. decisions....

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Sorry for being late to the party here. It does look like you've got less clearance than normal. We've either clearanced or removed the fitting in a situation where the motor is out, but we've also installed them as-is on many cars with the engine installed.. I'm sorry you're having troubles with it, if there is anything else I can do to help, please let me know.

LownSlow616

Id like to know/see examples of whats been done in the past. Specifically when you say "clearanced."

What is clearanced vs removed? Is it solid where i circled (see attachment) or a thin wall?

mrryanbaker

iTrader: (11)

It's not silly that everyone uses it, because this is custom work, and it requires some custom parts. I've used the same spacer/KIA neck on 5 cars and it works great with the Cadillac/GM hose. You are going to have to cut/cap that fitting though.Just run compressed air through a coolant port while you cut, or put some grease on your bit and it'll catch the shavings.

LownSlow616

I might just cut the stock barb of the old thermostat housing and have it welded on the end of the kia barb. It would give me the clearance and be the right size

mrryanbaker

iTrader: (11)

Don't focus on "right size" because the moment you did a reroute the "right size" ceased to exist. We're already using the wrong hose, with the wrong outlet, for the wrong application.

Art

.