FS: Mazda "Higherish Compression" 2000 Miata Pistons/Rods 9.5:1
 

Selling a set of 4 Perfect pistons out of a 2000 Long Block i purchased. Compression Ratio is 9.5:1. Rods included as well.

List of Miata Compression Ratios to know where you stand:
90-95 8.8:1
95.5-97 9.0:1
99-00 9.5:1
01+ 10.0:1
msm 9.0:1

Great cost effective option if your rebuilding and want a little bit extra compression without running the crazy 10:1 oem pistons which are not the most boost friendly. After market stuff is very expensive as well.

$200 Shipped

More pics shortly...
http://i35.tinypic.com/70l44o.jpg

These pistons and rods?

http://i34.tinypic.com/2lkxy1c.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/23u1t8z.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26386

oo... i think he canned you on that one.

haha ya those ones. They are also the ones in the first post. You will see them when I remove them from the block. They are 100% OK.

how are the rings?

the rings that you cannot see while the pistons are still in the block

the steel rings that are susceptible to rusting

And I don't suppose there are any score marks on the pistons from unseizing the engine right?

Let me make a suggestion. Don't sell these pistons to anybody.

You said you bought this motor used with 90K miles, but can not verify the mileage. Furthermore, you don't know why the engine was removed and torn down in the first place. From the pics it looks like it had a blown head gasket between cylinders 2&3. Since you disassembled the engine, you already know whether it had a blown HG. If the engine did have a blown head gasket, it's likely from being severely overheated. Not good on pistons.

If you insist on selling them, you should at least give as much info as possible and advertise them "as is" not 100% ok. Cause from what I read and what I see, they're 99% fucked. I mean think about it, you're ditching this POS motor to get a good used one. Why would anybody not do the same?

These pistons are fine. Look at my Trader feedback. I don't try and rip people off. I know all to well how it feels. Also pat you know it from dealing with me first hand. I gave you all the details i knew about those cams you bought from me and didn't want to sell them unless you felt comfortable they where going to work for you.
Engine did not have a blown headgasket. The Head and block where straight telling me that it never overheated severely.
$180 Shipped

Tough Fucking Crowd:

http://i35.tinypic.com/67la2s.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/douyb4.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/34he5uo.jpg

While I agree with what was said above about the condition, I haven't seen used OEM pistons sell for more than $50 a set. I got mine for $25. Just FYI.

Id take the lot for 25 bucks. Id even do local pickup.

let me know.

I've seen 01+ pistons go for $200, but everything else $25-100

I just need the pistons. I'll give you $25 for them.

The lowest I could go on these is $75 shipped. I really need the cash right now otherwise I will keep them and use them.

I had to give mine away

Well keep me in mind Mike, I could give them a good home. But 75 bucks is excessive considering the supply of them.

what's the supply of them? Seems like everyone on MT.net is chiming in on this for sale thread with there two cents. If they where in such a supply why would you even bother with this set seeing as everyone seems to think they are fucked except the person who has physically inspected them and has them sitting right in front of them as he types.

They are $44.62 each new from mazdacomp.

Any 94-99 protege, 323, 94+ miata, 94+ ford escort, and 95-97 kia has pistons and rods that will work. Not exactly a rarity. But it's kinda like reusing a condom. Yeah you could do it, but it's not a good idea.

When people PROPERLY (look this up as you seem to be unfamiliar with this idea in general) build an engine, they bore it out. Most rebuild because the engine is showing signs of wear. Like it burns oil or has low compression. Turns out, parts wear over time! Crazy, I know. In order to get everything back to factory specs, you have to overbore the engine to get the cylinders back straight, scratch free, and to the new proper diameter for the correct piston to cylinder wall clearance. Then you hone them to put a good cross hatching in it so that the new rings on the pistons will "cut" into the block and seal. If done correctly, when reassembled, the engine will maintain proper clearances such that it is not too tight and seizes up, yet not too loose such that it causes excessive wear and oil consumption.

Since you say these pistons are good (you physically inspected them, they're 100% ok, etc) mind telling us the following to the 4 decimal accuracy you measured them to with your 3-4 micrometer and feeler gauges?

Piston diameter:

Piston ring end gap for:

A) Top compression ring
B) Middle compression ring
C) Oil control ring

Piston ring groove clearance for:

A) Top compression ring
B) Middle compression ring

In case you haven't figured it out, you can't just "look" at them and tell they're good to go. A human hair is pretty small in diameter, no? They are several thousandths thick! Typical piece of paper is 3-5 thousandths thick. The maximum allowance for variation in piston diameter from spec is 0.0007" That's less than 1/1000 of an inch. That's 7/10,000 of an inch. That's very VERY LITTLE. YOU CAN'T EVEN SEE THIS.

might as well ask here. How much can i list the 2000 crank shaft for? Lets get it all out of the way now so I dont have another forsale thread completely shit on...

I sold my last good 97 crank for $50 to someone who need it. $50-100 is usually the norm for a perfect crank.