99-00 and 01-05 MS DIYPNP "Enhanced" group buy
10-29-2010, 08:15 AM
#21
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I do this pretty often, but also add a 5 amp inline fuse on the +12V wire to the LC1. That way if the LC1 has a problem or the wire shorts, the new fuse will blow instead of the car's ECU fuse so the MegaSquirt doesn't lose power.
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10-29-2010, 10:52 AM
#23
I joined here after the BB closed, we even spoke of me buying one I just was not able to join in until the BB was done.
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10-29-2010, 12:38 PM
#24
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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I also was to late for the group buy, so I bought a diypnp and just assembled it. I'm installing it tonight and it would be awesome if I could have a nice map to start off of. I'd be happy to give you a few bucks through paypal if you are interested. Maybe you have one similar to me? 99 Miata with a/c and p/s. no sequential or anything.
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10-29-2010, 01:02 PM
#25
I am happy to pay as well or just prepay for my PNP unit from you upfront.
AbeFM is unreachable it seems and I have no idea what to think of this thing, I am making progress but its making me nuts.
AbeFM is unreachable it seems and I have no idea what to think of this thing, I am making progress but its making me nuts.
Last edited by Cross; 10-29-2010 at 01:13 PM.
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10-29-2010, 02:11 PM
#26
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10-29-2010, 10:58 PM
#29
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I'm wiring the wideband now, I'm assuming it's alright to use the ecu for the af gauge ground and switched 12v?
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10-30-2010, 12:23 AM
#30
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Right now i'm having problems even getting mine working... so hopefully I'll have that resolved first :\
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10-31-2010, 08:44 PM
#32
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I started my install today. I calibrated my LC-1, ran the map hose and pulled the stock ECU. I may also use the stock ECU hangers for the E-DIYPNP. I noticed that the DB-15 connector has wires connected to different pins than those in my .XLS config file but I'll correct them when I enable sequential ignition. I also set the fan temp jumpers on the expansion board. I think making a clean install will be the hardest part. I have to get an inline fuse for the LC-1 and I plan to pull the stock narrow-band sensor.
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10-31-2010, 10:54 PM
#33
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Well, I finished up my install today and I've been trying auto tune it, but it seems to be running rich despite using autotune and is kind of jerky in 1-2 gear. It is also idling slightly high. Any suggestions? I've attached my msq.
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11-01-2010, 03:04 AM
#35
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For best results, set your idle screw so that when you are idling (after warmup) at 1000rpm with no loads (ie radio, lights, fans, etc), the "PWM Idle %" is aprox 28-30%.
Re: fueling. Please post a picture of your Autotune settings. I usually start with "Cell change resistance: easy" to quickly get me there, and then I gradually increase the resistance.
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11-01-2010, 04:52 AM
#36
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Well for my LC-1 12v I use the thick blue heater supply. Voltage is constant regardless of heater settings, I've metered it. The reason I switched from the ECU supply is it prevents my sensor from throwing error 4 codes. (i.e. sensor trying to warm up to calibration temperature whilst the engine is cranking and voltage is unstable). It's also located about 12 inches from the ECU loom on my car so it makes for a tidy install and means I don't need to add an in-line fuse.
Regarding tuning idle, have a read of this. I increased the PID idle gains a little at a time and lowered my overall idle target curve in order to reduce warm idle. It works great.
Regarding tuning idle, have a read of this. I increased the PID idle gains a little at a time and lowered my overall idle target curve in order to reduce warm idle. It works great.
Last edited by CRAIGO; 11-01-2010 at 05:24 AM.
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11-01-2010, 10:57 AM
#37
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Dumb question I know, but for the LC1 and this ECU, do I need to have a separate bung welded to the exhaust? If not, can the LC1 sensor replace the existing O2 sensor?
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