can't set base timing... now what?
 

I'm trying to get my MS installed and running this week since I plan on putting the turbo this weekend. my problem is I can't find the timing mark on the pulley. I found a white mark on the inner, but I don't believe that's it. I put the motor at TDC on #1 and there isn't any paint or even a nick on the pulley were it should be. heck, I can't even find a nick on the pulley anywhere...

what should I do? anyone have any other suggestions on how to set the base timing back to stock?

info: 90 w/1.6L

if you know the timing belt is correct and you mechanically verify tdc. make your own mark on the pulley at TDC.

I need to check the cam timing just to make sure it looks correct, but I'm a little nervous about creating my own timing mark. I guess I could mark it with a sharpie and see if it looks correct. the PO did alot of wonky things for some reason. had BKR5E plugs, 160* thermostat, etc and the car was basically stock, I'm scared he advanced the timing pretty high. it's never knocked, even on track in 90* heat on 87 though.

even if I can't get the base timing to 10*, I should be OK correct or am I not thinking of something. I just need to get the car running and driveable, I plan on tuning it on the 15th.

has anyone ever heard or seen a pulley without a mark before?

thanks :brain:

One of the cars at the ESR meet last week didn't have any marks on the timing pulley. We made one with a tiny dab of paint.

ok, a little up date... I took the timing covers off and verified the mark on the oil pump and made a mark on the pulley, so I know that is correct.

went to set base timing and made the changes on my MS, I'm not even close. I'm running something like 40* advance or something according to the timing mark. that leaves me to believe the head has been decked. what options do I have now? I'm going to check the cam timing tonight, but I'm pretty sure that is correct as the car runs and idles fine.

do I have to get the base timing set to 10* or is close enough an option?

The MS has no idea what the timing is, you have to tell it, "MS, take a look at this, this is 10° TDC. Please make a note of this so we can enjoy long years together."

of the oil pump is at TDC and #1 is TDC then put a mark on the pulley and when you rotate the gears 2 cyles the cams line back up, then you know you are good and need ot make the mark at TDC.

So then force the MS to a static 10*, and change the trigger angle until your new mark lines up to the 10* line.

I'm back... finally got to start the car again last night.

I have triple check the TDC mark on the oil pump and the cam gears, they are correct with the mark I made on my pulley. the CAS plug was pointing straight up when I bought the car and with it pointing straight up the mark is at TDC.

I slowly rotated the CAS sensor and finally got it to 10* without the car stalling, but I had to use all the adjustment to get there. car started running really crap and didn't really want to idle. took it for a spin around the drive way and it is acting liking it's under extreme load. trying to build boost and really loud, it has no power. pulled it back into the garage and moved the CAS back to the original position, the car runs like it should. what should or can I do now?

thanks again for the tips and advice. :brain:

Instead of rotating the CAS it's easier to adjust the trigger angle in the spark settings in Megatune.

Let me look for a diagram I drew once...

Here it is:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t34551/


EDIT: I say this will help, but don't know if you are running MSII...in which case you'll have to check your PNP manual. Sorry.

thanks for the link go, I tried using the MS to set base timing and it would stall the motor out. I can't remember the exact values, it was almost a month ago now... I'm wantint say that DIY says some people have to go as high as 75, I would get around 72~73 and it would stall the car out.

what I did last night was just doing it with the jumper wire like stock. should I hook back up to my laptop and do it that way? would it make a difference?

As long as you set it to a positive value (10deg) so it knows you are setting absolute timing at that value...you should be fine.

The -10deg value tells it to resort to map.

If you're running out of adjustment value make sure you at the +22.5 trigger angle addition to give you some more room....I've always seen the trigger angle between 55-57 on a couple of different cars.

I'm not sure on the jumper wire...I do it without no prob...someone else may know more about that.