Idle jump with car in gear and clutch pedal still pressed in
Figured i'd just ask, my idle will jump to 2500 rpm if i put it in any gear with the clutch pedal still pressed down. I haven't touched the idle controls, just the idle cells for fuel and the warm up enrichment. I can't seem to find any solid answer on this, some have said maybe the clutch switch? Anyways, anyone could point me in t he right direction it would be much appreciated!
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You can play with the clutch switch independently of the clutch pedal. It's a small white plastic box behind the pedal arm. Start there to isolate whether it's an issue with the electronics or mechanicals. I can't think of an obvious reason why you're experiencing those symptoms, but that test should help steer your investigation.
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Reading up a little bit, I see there are two idle switches: the one behind the clutch pedal, and one in the transmission. They tell the ECU to enter IAC control and idle timing. I'd guess you have a good sensor in the transmission, but a bad one under the pedal. Your trans sensor is telling your ECU to enter idle timing when you're in neutral, but when you push in the clutch pedal and row it into gear, the pedal sensor isn't telling the ECU to stay in idle timing. Watch your timing map as you shift between neutral & a gear with the clutch pushed in. Does it jump?
Pure conjecture. I've never dealt with this problem... |
I loaded up my tune and went out, every time i go into gear the timing does jump up. When i let the clutch out while the car is in gear it will just take off and accelerate on it's own until it reaches the 2500 rpm..very odd.
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Activating launch control?
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Launch control is disabled.
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More on this . I loaded the base map to see if i did something tune wise, but the car acts the same with a higher idle.
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Uh, is this a new tune? You gotta fiddle with your IAC PWM settings, and maybe even your idle valve screw.
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The tune is not new, I had it on the road and driving around, then i started adjusting the AE and warmup settings. Same day this started.
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Variable tps or OEM?
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oem TPS
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After you getting ae events at idle?
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No AE is being triggered at idle. When i put the car into gear i can hear the idle valve get much louder then the engine revs up. my laptop is currently charging, maybe ill upload my tune in a few.
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2 Attachment(s)
Here it is, it's a massive work in progress. most has been done with auto tune.
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Alrighty, quick update - i jumped the clutch switch to bypass the rod activated by the pedal. Same problem. Since the car acts the same regardless if i load an old tune way back before this was an issue, i am assuming something else is at play here.
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OK, so just to keep troubleshooting, i re-installed the factory ecu, and afm.. no problems..so the issue is either with all my tunes or the ecu.
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Map sensor issue?
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MAP sensor appears to be functioning fine, it sits where it always has at idle and moves around when i drive.
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i dont know if this is relivent to your issue or not but my rx-8 used to idle jump between 800 and 2500 over and over then when i pressed the clutch it stopped
now i dont know if this fault can cause other symptoms or not but it was the neutral position sensor in my gear box one of the connectors had vibrated off but you got simlar symptoms when they start to fail as well so its just an idea you might want to try there are 2 sensors usually in the gear box i think 1 is the reverse sensor and 1 is the neutral sensor but that may differ on gearbox models im not sure but i think its a good idea just to check them |
Originally Posted by nomic
(Post 1338010)
i dont know if this is relivent to your issue or not but my rx-8 used to idle jump between 800 and 2500 over and over then when i pressed the clutch it stopped
now i dont know if this fault can cause other symptoms or not but it was the neutral position sensor in my gear box one of the connectors had vibrated off but you got simlar symptoms when they start to fail as well so its just an idea you might want to try there are 2 sensors usually in the gear box i think 1 is the reverse sensor and 1 is the neutral sensor but that may differ on gearbox models im not sure but i think its a good idea just to check them |
Originally Posted by Besusjesus
(Post 1338011)
Thanks for the info, i'll look into that. Not sure it will be the cause since the problem goes away with the factory ecu..but i'll try anything.
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The clutch switch is irrelevant, OP just needs to tune his idle control valve.
If it's a 1.6, 480hz for the idle valve is wrong. |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1338015)
The clutch switch is irrelevant, OP just needs to tune his idle control valve.
If it's a 1.6, 480hz for the idle valve is wrong. im sure with plenty of reading and research i will learn a lot more espcially with experianced guys to bleed info from ;) lol |
Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1338015)
The clutch switch is irrelevant, OP just needs to tune his idle control valve.
If it's a 1.6, 480hz for the idle valve is wrong. |
There is a value in all of your datalogs, it's called PWM idle duty or something like that. That's a metered vac leak, controls the idle speed. You need to look and see if there's a relationship between that value and the idle jump, if there is you lower the value by changing the tune.
It could be something else, idle timing or something, but I bet it's the idle valve. |
gotcha, I took a log. I see that when i g=put the car into gear it jumps from 32 to 45 on the pwm idle duty. Take it out of gear and it drops back down to 32. So this will be tuned in closed loop then?
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When you use CL you get several ways to change what they call "initial value" for the idle valve, plus the dashpot for returning to idle. Closed loop is just supposed to target an idle valve position to coolant temperature, that's the only input parameter. I don't really have much of an explanation for the jump if you aren't using closed loop, but that's something that can be controlled with closed loop much easier.
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Originally Posted by deezums
(Post 1338046)
When you use CL you get several ways to change what they call "initial value" for the idle valve, plus the dashpot for returning to idle. Closed loop is just supposed to target an idle valve position to coolant temperature, that's the only input parameter. I don't really have much of an explanation for the jump if you aren't using closed loop, but that's something that can be controlled with closed loop much easier.
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So, nothing i touched in closed or open loop seemed to effect the issue..I decided to do the good old "turn if off and on again"..i set idle control to off, then burned it to ecu and set it back to open loop like it was before..issue is now gone! Not sure WTF was going on, but the problems have stopped..Thanks everyone who helped in on this thread, i really appreciate it.
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Can you post a log?
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