megasquirt runs terable regarless of ve or afr maps
 

terrible*
Here is a attachment of my current ve map and a datalog.
this is the base map from diyautotune.
It idles very rich and goes lean under load, small changes to the ve cells seem to make no difference. and any significant change (like decrease by 6 or more it just goes real lean and stalls.
has AEM wide band and a decent AFR target table but it does not seem to make any adjustments to even come close to target values.
also auto tune seems to suck also not doing anything
I have read that a IAT adjustment can add fuel...how do i check if this setting is enabled?

is there something im missing?

Noise like whoa on the MAP, AFR, and others. You need to go back through the car and run all the 5v grounds to the same place, 12v grounds to another.

Well, I think that's what you need to do, wait for the engineer crew to come in with their maths and larger neural mass.

I can't see the logs because I am on my phone but if Hustler is seeing what I think he is, he's right. Wideband power and ground should be from the same place as the rest if possible, too.

MSPNP1 or MSPNP2?

Just gave a bunch of advice over here that might help you:

https://www.miataturbo.net/mspnp-55/...equired-72163/

I agree that the signals look noisy, so you should check that you are using good, secure common grounds.

Idling rich and going to a lean stumble off-idle is what I experienced with the MSPNP basemap also. But it was easily tuned away.

You need to understand the function of the VE and AFR tables. The Megasquirt operates primarly from the VE table. During steady state under certain conditions (for example NOT when under boost), the Megasquirt will automatically adjust to try and achieve the AFR table. BUT, the amount of adjustment available is limited -- typically to no more than a 5%-10% change. If you've got a MSPNP1, this is found in the "Exhaust Gas Settings" dialogue. Why the limited authority? Consider what could happen to your engine if the WBO2 had a failure and fed a false rich to the MSPNP.

If your VE table is way off (and if you're still using the initial basemap, you are way off), then I recommend that for the first couple of tuning iterations you use MegaLog Viewer's VE analyzer function. That way, you can see the recommended changes and make sure they're sensible. Once you're closer, you can start using TunerStudio's autotune function.

Be patient. It works . . . well.

I can't help but laugh...Hustler says, "Noise like whoa". Then I look left and I see the glasses come down on Taylor's face with the DEAL WITH IT!

Its a ms1.
I would adjust the VE table and it would seem to have no affect. it would change the kpa and the idle speed a little but not the afr. It would stay at high 11s all the way to the point the cell numbers would b so low that it would rapidly climb to 17s and stall

im grounded to the firewall good clean grounds and the guage maches the reading on the MS so i know the signal is clear.

I think my issue might be the Wideband itself it is a few years old and i don't know if it is accurate.
I pulled the ms and put in the factory ecu. With the tps unplugged it runs awesome, Had a erratic idle at first but i adjusted the throttle screw and it smoothed out at 1k rpm and it shows 12s at idle. but it drives great. I was surprised with the difference in smooth low end torque. kicking the clutch around a turn results in a fishtail also. I think I'm going to change this old AEM for a new LC1 before i put the MS back in.

so you have the map daddy?

whats a map daddy?

your tune is set to run with one... if you didnt have one, it would run like ass as you describe. these are important things to know/understand.

Great im glad you found somthing wrong here......where can i read more about this.

edit: disregard

MAP daddy:

MapDaddy 4 Bar MAP Sensor with Barometric Correction DIYAutoTune.com

So you have the msq set for the wrong MAP sensor? I've seen that done before. The car definitely ran like ass until we got that little detail ironed out.

what he probably needs to do is set it back to 250bar and turn barometric corrections off.