MS2PNP rough idle and dies on timing change
4 Attachment(s)
I just got my MS2 PNP today from DIY Autotune but I am having some trouble getting it running. I am to the point where I need to set base timing. The car will start but run really rough and smell of raw gas. When I try to adjust the base timing up or down by 0.1(10.0 to 10.1) the car dies when I click burn. I can restart it without issue, but it is still running rough like before.
I have attached the log and tune. Any direction would be helpful, and please be kind, i am new to megasquirt. |
I just ran through my plug wires 1 at a time with the timing light and cylanders 2 and 4 seem to be not firing or firing at alot slower rate than 1 and 2.
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I put the stock ECU back in and it ran without issue. So I am assuming I messed up some setting.
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FYI, the car always dies when burning the base timing, so that is not an issue. Have you locked the advance to 10 degrees in Tuner Studio? Have you gotten to the point of checking how far off the base timing is yet?
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Thats where I am.
I tried the way in the instructions with the MSPNP. Except unless I have the CAS turned all the way to the intake side the engine runs(rough but it runs), as soon as I try and move it to the exhaust side the idle drops lower and the car just about dies. The whole time the timing marks are at about 2 BTDC. So I tried adjusting the fixed timing in tunerstudio and it seems to have no effect. |
I ran test mode on both coils and all 4 plugs. Other than being black from running so rich, they gave clean spark.
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what year miata do you have?
did your map come set to untimed injection? |
Fixed timing doesn't actually sync the timing. It just locks a commanded angle so you can accurately compare commanded to actual. You need to adjust the offset to match commanded to actual.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1145717)
what year miata do you have?
did your map come set to untimed injection?
Originally Posted by Ben
(Post 1145718)
Fixed timing doesn't actually sync the timing. It just locks a commanded angle so you can accurately compare commanded to actual. You need to adjust the offset to match commanded to actual.
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I have done a little more work. I am starting over from square 1. I put the stock ECU back in and rest the CAS to factory timing. I started to replace all my vacuum lines since they are the originals from 96. From owning hondas in the past I realize how vacuum sensitive speed density is. However I didn't buy enough(oops). I am also going to pick up a cheap vac/boos gauge from the parts store just so i have an analog gauge to compare to the digital one.
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