MSPNP2 idle error?
 

Hello,

I wanted to know if anyone has an issue where their car does not go into CL idle. It appears to be”frozen” or stuck and will clear if I shut off the car and restart it.

I have a log on my pc at home. I can share later

I wonder if anyone has had a similar issue?

Post your tune also, that will tell a lot.

I used a MSPNP2 for many years and never had a problem w/ CL idle activation on that platform

rwyatt-Thank you for the reminder

File - ColdStart.mlg is where the car does not go into the CL idle loop and requires a restart to seem to get that to work correctly

File - CLDidleLOOP.mlg is after I drove to the gas station. turned the car off then started the engine and it hunts for a while. if I let it (no throttle inputs myself) the car will shut off. Possibly the PID set to high, but it doesn't do it every time.

Your MAP at idle in the logs is 20 kPa or lower. Normal idle would be more like ~28 kPa. Your CL idle is not engaging because it has a MAP threshold of 25 kPa - below that pressure, CL idle will not activate, as such low pressures are normally indicative of overrun.

Maybe vacuum leak?

Going to 9-9.2 on decel too. That's either an incredibly tight engine, or somethings off with the MAP like calibration or other. I've also had weird MAP readings when an engine isn't running well, like on 3 cylinders or similar.

It's at 89kpa with 0rpm, Green Bay should be near atmospheric, unless the car is somewhere higher than your profile's location. You'd have to be around 3000 feet according to google.

Hmm seems like I’m back to the low kpa’s again…

Green Bay is 700ft elevation.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12e9ae20ef.jpg
Current home conditions. no ac on.

I looked over all connections to the intake and as far as a vacuum leak goes, the only thing I can think of is PCV valve faulty (stock one) or no gasket on EGR blocking plate. It’s bugged me from the start, but the kit didn’t come with one I thought maybe it’s not needed and went with it.

I made a gasket from a mikes lemonade box and have installed it. not sure if that'll be good enough.

Other than that, I believe the car is running well. I don’t feel any missing or anything like that. I feel performance is good if not great, but I don’t have anything to reference to other than its stock performance.

Sitting in the garage. No start

KPA says 88

My MAP is set at mpxh6400 and its default settings. I don't believe I changed any of them

Here’s a video of it starting

I've checked all plugs visually they look the same.

I put my timing light on each plug wire and #2 looks to flash half as many times as the other 3 wires.

Good catch - I had looked at the baro to see if maybe he was actually someplace else at higher elevation, but didn't think to look at the pre-start MAP as well. That looks to me like something is off with the MAP sensor/calibration, since pre-start 0-rpm is 89 kPa while barometric pressure at the same exact time is 99 kPa.

Idk I don’t think it’s running on three cylinders.

Please watch the video of the startup, (previous post) the cars running smooth.

the 9-9.xx could that be possible on a downhill decel?

if the EGR blocking plate leaked air past it. Then putting a ‘gasket’ in it, wouldn’t that cause the AFRs to go rich? And requiring some tuning?

all interesting points.


Do you suggest I use different inputs to correct for the error? the recommended setting apparently is incorrect.

The sensor seems to be bad since the calibration looks correct. You can wire up a separate sensor to the options port and then move a jumper on the MS board to use it, without having to mess with the stock sensor that's direct on the board.

I believe you recently put this MSPNP2 into service - did you buy it new? Might want to reach out about a possible warranty claim if so.

for real.. hmmm. damn…

Curly and Mad thank you for pointing that out. I’ve replaced the MAP with an external GM sensor and it’s now at 99-100 restart and 28-30 at idle.

the MSPNP2 I purchased from someone on FB marketplace. They stated it was never used. All parts and pieces came with appeared to be unused original parts. It was manufactured in 2020 from DIY.

I didn’t datalog my first drive since then(I know that doesn’t help). I eventually did after a half hour or so of driving. I was more concerned with rerunning autotune as I’m sure it’s off from the failed sensor.

I’ll work better to capture/datalog the idle after the cars warm. The idle still hunts wildly and will die. It’s only a problem after the engine is warm. I can tame it with throttle input and I can calm it down back to normal.

yesterday I had a issue with possibly overheating the car. I want to start a thread on that situation.

Thank you all for the help!

​​​​​​​Rob

Well I have some unfortunate new circumstances.

and I again did not capture the incident in a datalog really kicking myself for that. But….

The situation was I’m driving in the country and I decided to get on the gas. I was in second winding the car up to redline to cover some of the boxes inTS w/ autotune on. Near 6500-7 the engine spits and sputters backfires pretty aggressively. I slowed down noticed I had touched a box (VE table) I hadn’t got too and thought maybe it was way rich. As I’ve noticed tuner studio mainly taking fuel away as it’s tuning, meaning the VE table is pretty rich. I gave it gas again after all settled down, and having a vehicle behind me I just slowed down after the 1st incident, annd again the engine sputters and backfires.

now I notice my AFRs are very rich <10s and when I make it to a stop sign. The car at idle is reading 56kpa and had a miss. I drove it home.

i believe I saw the boost go pretty high like 175kpa but that was me glancing at the VE table looking at the autotune screen.

any thoughts? Maybe failed ignition/spark possibly? Idk

i have a datalog prior to this happening I can post when I get home. But I believe that it won’t show much. Still at base timing settings and such.

Sounds like you either hit boost cut or you're approaching the limit of your ignition system. Take the plugs out, they should be nearly new BKR-7E, gapped to ~.020-.025.

You were running VEAL but not logging? Let this be a lesson to always be logging when doing anything tuning related. If you already have a laptop hooked up, I cannot think of any reason not to be logging.

As to new idle issues after that run - you do have the idle-range cells locked out from VEAL, right?

yeah definitely not ideal.. do you just log the entire time? My thought was to try a start and stop during AT to keep the logs more manageable. I have other logs that I had been tracking for like an hr and I thought who the hell would look at that.

Did I mention idk what I’m really doing tuning wise.

Idle is locked out for AT. (CLT temp >160 rpms >1500)

Why the rise from 30ish kpa to the mid to upper 50s idling?

If you’re misfiring, that can explain the weird map