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ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 05:11 PM

Post dyno thoughts
 
1 Attachment(s)
So I just got back from the dyno and got things dialed in a bit better. The tuner also corrected some things I had overlooked. I made 167hp which seems a little low to me based on my setup. The tuner said that HP could be what we over 200 if we raise the psi to 15 or 16psi. Could someone take a look at my tune and give me some direction?

My setup-SR20 Garrett turbo 11psi
-Flying miata turbo kit
-3” exhaust
-DIYPNP
-Boundary Engineering Billet Oil Pump66PSI
-Supertech pistons w/ wiseco rings 84mm/8.6:1
-K1 Forged H-Beam Rods
-ACL rod and main bearings
-ARP main studs

-SuperMiata Harmonic Damper
36-2 Trigger wheel
-LS2 coils 510c

-Deatschwerks 255lph fuel pump
-Injector Dynamics 1000cc
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22c0a1272a.jpg

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 05:23 PM

Tell me more about your turbo. Which SR20 is it from? It seems awfully low.

What does an GT2554 make at 11psi?

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 05:36 PM

Based on my best research these are the specs

Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm 0.60 A/R BCI-1 compressor.


Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 05:38 PM

Mind posting your spark map? Did you pay the dyno for a full tune or just dyno pulls? (link your full tune and the log of the dyno pull if you can)

yossi126 01-29-2020 05:45 PM

Are you using a manual boost controller? Boost control is diabled in msq. The numbers are more inline with what spring pressure would make.
Also your timing is way too conservative for your compression ratio.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 05:50 PM

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...213045e85b.png
I paid the tuner to look though all of my settings and then he did some dyno pulls to for power.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 05:53 PM


Originally Posted by yossi126 (Post 1560908)
Are you using a manual boost controller? Boost control is diabled in msq. The numbers are more inline with what spring pressure would make.
Also your timing is way too conservative for your compression ratio.

I'm only using wastegate pressure. It translates to about 11psi.

Mudflap 01-29-2020 05:57 PM

deleted -

yossi126 01-29-2020 06:05 PM

Post a log. Your boost curve will almost certainly show correlation to the power curve. Wastegate pressure s*cks compared to even a mbc.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 06:16 PM


Originally Posted by yossi126 (Post 1560913)
Post a log. Your boost curve will almost certainly show correlation to the power curve. Wastegate pressure s*cks compared to even a mbc.

I don't have a problem doing a log. But what is the boost curve/log gonna tell you that you don't already know. (Power level at my current peak boost)

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 06:20 PM

It will tell us if you are getting to your 11psi at redline or 11psi at 3000 rpm. That is a big difference.

Also - What fuel were you running? At 8.6:1 your engine is set up to make power on pump gas (premium). You can't know for certain what is safe in YOUR car with YOUR fuel, but your spark map looks really similar to what mine is at 11psi, and I am at 11:1 compression.

I don't think your problem is spark though.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 06:27 PM


Originally Posted by ericsbestshot (Post 1560914)
I don't have a problem doing a log. But what is the boost curve/log gonna tell you that you don't already know. (Power level at my current peak boost)

I understand. Hopefully it is 11psi throughout the RPM range. The easiest way to log this would be logging map pressure, right? Can't you also pay close attention to the boost gauge and see weather or not your turbo is holding the 11psi steady? Because it does do that.

I would also expect the tuner to see obvious red flags if the map pressure/or boost consistency were an issue.

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 06:34 PM

Just do a full log (connected to laptop running tunerstudeio) of a pull in your 1:1 gear (4th in 5 speed, 5th in 6 speed) from about 2,000 rpm to maybe 70-80mph. That will tell us quite a bit.

Do you know how to do a log?

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 08:03 PM

Data Logging not great. I can't seem to load a .mgl file. But the log shows that my boost does get to slightly higher than 10 psi and AFRs are 11.5 to 12 when i go WOT.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c044259775.png

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 08:07 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...49c1db9f59.png

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 08:17 PM

Ok. Good data. .mgl? You sure it's not .msl?

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 08:19 PM

yeah it saved as .mlg.

Just noticed there is a setting for .msl and .mlg and i had it set to .mlg.

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 08:21 PM

Weird. just for now name it .txt

I will change it's name back to MGL when i download it.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 08:32 PM

1 Attachment(s)
not sure if what i did will make it work but here it is.

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 08:40 PM

Weird. Still not able to load it. Anyone else?

(what you did was just rename it as a file format that COULD be uploaded)

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 08:46 PM

I'll try again tomorrow and log it as a .msl. Are .msl files able to be loaded to miataturbo.net? And what perimeters would you like me to have logged?

I can't help but think there is a lot of power still on the table. I think i'm a little rich and not enough timing. And of course about 4 more psi of boost would help.

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 08:50 PM

Are you SD card datalogging? If you are using tunerstudio to datalog, it will log ALL the data unless I am mistaken. I only ever have to pick and choose when logging to SD card.

Also, you have a forged rod motor with good pistons and pump gas compression. I wouldn't stress about that motor.

Your turbo however might be choking your potential.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 08:56 PM

there is a default function that will log everything and or you can tell it to only log certain data points.

Not using a SD card, just telling tunerstudio to start and stop logging.

Chiburbian 01-29-2020 09:10 PM

"Data Log Profile Editor?"
I never even noticed that option.

Just log them all if you can. If not, I will make a list tomorrow.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 10:41 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ab79def067.png
basemap from megasquirt website
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c21169a499.png
spark map from tuner

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 11:08 PM

i posted the above cause i thought it was curious what is on the base map for 99-00 miatas and comparing to the map after the tuner messed with it.

Ted75zcar 01-29-2020 11:30 PM

Did you do a timing belt? What is the idle vac and at what RPM? That looks suspiciously like a mistimed intake cam to me.

ericsbestshot 01-29-2020 11:41 PM

i haven't done the timing belt since i built the motor a few years ago. Not saying its not possible. i idle at about 900rpm and if i remember correctly at about 35kpa. I can double check this tomorrow.

LeoNA 01-30-2020 04:13 PM

This is from my 9:1 BP4W FM1 on a shimmed wastegate at 8.5psi. I was running about 1-2 degrees more timing then you and an AFR 0f 12:1 in the 150KPA row.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d9db32129f.png

ericsbestshot 01-30-2020 11:08 PM

2 Attachment(s)
since we can now upload MLG files

ericsbestshot 02-14-2020 11:24 PM

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b42ace3534.jpg

I'm thinking my cam gears are off by 1 tooth each. What do ya'll think. Marks on the pulley line up with the "T" on the belt cover and matches up to where my extension stops going up.

All I can think is that if it is off by a tooth. It runs and idle remarkably well.

btw, sorry I couldn't get back to this sooner. I had to get surgery on my wrist which has prevented much wrenching.

der_vierte 02-15-2020 05:35 AM

Intake cam is 1 tooth off, exhaust cam looks good

ericsbestshot 02-15-2020 12:13 PM


Originally Posted by der_vierte (Post 1562168)
Intake cam is 1 tooth off, exhaust cam looks good

Correct be if I'm wrong but I count 19 teeth between the gears. And moving the intake cam one tooth would throw this off.

ericsbestshot 02-15-2020 02:41 PM

So, i believe i got my issue figured out. I'm like 95% positive that the timing is off by exactly 10%. I starting tearing down the front of the engine to double check where my crank was sitting. I'm using the keyway instead of the half moon on the gear cause i don't want to pry the damper off. It seems that the timing marks on the supermiata damper are a little strange and one mark sits on the "T" and one is off the scale. I used this thread for reference https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...ry-here-89510/.


ericsbestshot 02-15-2020 02:55 PM

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2f795269e4.jpg
Keyway straight up
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...13e5b50416.jpg
Marks being off.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9b6e7a91ea.jpg
Cams at actual TDC.

DNMakinson 02-15-2020 04:01 PM

I do not think you see what you think you see. They look the same as the white and orange marks in the thread you resurrected.l, where Curly said good to go.

DNM

ericsbestshot 02-15-2020 04:22 PM

Well, when i moved the crank over to the spot where Curly said got to go, My cams go out of alignment.

LeoNA 02-15-2020 10:15 PM

Both cam sprockets look one cam sprocket tooth advanced to me. That would hurt your higher rpm performance, but would idle good.

EricBrute 03-20-2020 09:28 PM

The Cam gears are off for sure. The marks should point almost vertical, and the #1 cylinder cam lobes should point outwards.

ericsbestshot 03-20-2020 10:49 PM

Little update.
with the timing correct went to the dyno and actually pit down some reasonable numbers. 220hp and 229 ft/lb at 14-15psi. Sorry for the lack of the dyno chart. But the shop lost it somehow.

curly 03-21-2020 10:10 AM

That's not weird for the SM damper, they're all like that. At TDC, The first mart lines up with the "T", and the other one is off the scale. People seem to confuse this with when they're checking with a timing light, locking timing at 10*, and seeing one at "10" and now the 2nd mark at "T".

Just to reiterate:

TDC (for mechanical timing): marks at T and -10 (off scale to right)

10* (with a timing light for sync): marks at 10 and T

I'll try to get some photos of that to clarify later. Hopefully I wasn't the one who led you wrong.

sixshooter 03-22-2020 07:44 AM

Oem should have had a single mark, imo. I've also seen this more than once.


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