Pulling hair out over cold start!!!
 

Alright I'm reaching out for a hand on this one. I have been trying for the past few days to get my car to start during cold temps. I just end up flooding the engine after about 15 minutes of playing with PW's and other cranking settings. I have searched thru this forum and other forums to dig up answers and have tried a hand full of suggestions but have yet to come up with a winner. I can get the car to start with helping it along with the throttle but once I let off the throttle it just flops around until it warms up to temp. I want the car to start just like when the stock ecu was in. I have just recently swapped motors for a built 1.6l along with new 550cc RC injectors. Maybe it is possible i did not set something up for the new injectors or I'm overlooking something any help would be great.

Could you also post a data log of an attempted cold start, just in case it's a bit more than fuel that's the problem?

Start ulta-lean and work your way up. It's simple but can be time consuming.
Crank settings get the car cranked, after start enrichment is the next 30 seconds (if you didn't change that), when move to the warm-up wizard.

Is there a way to set cranking spark? Mine really likes a fairly conservative spark to idle well, but with boost only 2000rpms above idle, I don't want a huge jump in spark angle. Especially with my puny MS1 tables.

the MS interpolates. huge jumps in tables are still smooth enough.

There is a "cranking timing" parameter for that.

Sorry forgot to mention I'm running a 255 fuel pump also. Braineack I have tried running some of the tables you posted for hustler in the past but I believe that those were still too much fuel, since i have a larger fuel pump. As for datalog I will post that this evening. Thanks guys for the responses Im currently learning to be a dad and juggle life at the same time. The only release I have is the miata and when I can't get it started it is a giant kick in the nuts.

Post your log and we'll look over it for obvious problems. However, there is no getting around it, no one can do this for you via the internet. You need to go sit in your car and do this work. All you have to do is make the numbers/PW/percentages small, then work up to larger numbers. Once you get the first one right, the rest are close behind. This is part of owning stand alone engine management and you're doing one of the more frustrating parts.

YES!!! I got it running! Tweaked the PW down to (.1) then (.5) then (1.0) and win! After that it was just a few minutes of playing with the ASE and she's a champ. Took her on a quick drive and a little autotune. First night in about a month that I'll be in bed before 10. Thanks again everyone, also including the tune for anyone who is interested.

Plainfield, eh? I'm in Aurora. I see we've started our MS tuning around the same time. Closed loop idle tuning party time? haha

Ya'll need to get closer to the city where the help is ;) .

But then I have less space for toys and fewer good roads for street tuning. I saw that you race with WCMC, but I don't think we've met... I'm number 602, was in B-class this season but F class next season.

True. You can get three times the home and garage space! There are a few of us with megasquirt experience now. Do you got to the monthly meetings? I may have seen you or met you...

Usually not. I went to the end of the season party though. I'm sure I've met you at one of the autocrosses. I saw an old post of yours with results from an event that we both were in. You noted how Brian and Adam often clean up F class. I'm wondering how my Turbo NA is going to compete with their NC's next season...

Yeah livin out of the city gives you the ability to open the car up and tune for some higher psi. But the drive into the city for work is sometimes is a pain. So how are those WCMC meets, never been.

So does anyone here have a 1.8 rearend that knocks when going into gear from a dead stop. Just swapped rearends and ant find a reason for the noise! Its eating me alive.

My rear end does that too and I haven't been able to find a cause, even after opening it up.

Really! Do you have poly bushings on the diff, I thought these may be the problem. Also noticed one wheel tends to grab more than the other causing the car to pull a bit to one side. I figured the diff is on its way out. But now I'm not sure?

I do have poly bushings. I'm running an obx diff with the upgraded bolts and washers. The only time it does anything I don't like is when 1 wheel lifts, then all power goes to that wheel. Can be sketchy pulling into parking lots too slow with a steep entrance.