No start issue-no fuel, spark or RPM input (NB1 with MSPNP and ITBs)
06-19-2014, 06:23 PM
#1
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No start issue-no fuel, spark or RPM input (NB1 with MSPNP and ITBs)
I'm having an issue getting the car to start at the moment.
I'll try to list as much information as I can to see if anyone has some insight on what I can look for. I've currently spent the last two weeks trying to track down the cause of the no-start to no avail...the car is currently running ITBs, so don't eat me alive please?
Relevant parts:
Reverant Enhanced MSPSP
AE101 ITBs with Techno Toy Tuning Manifold
420cc yellow RX-8 injectors
TSE COP kit
Background:
3 weeks ago, I was getting on the highway after picking up some lunch, and at near WOT input, the car started bucking and the tach quickly read a solid "0". I managed to coast the car off and into a parking lot. Took a while to figure out exactly what was wrong, but I finally determined it was the camshaft position sensor on the front of the valve cover. I fiddled with it a little bit, let the car cool off, and was able to limp it back to work that day.
It was around 95 that day, and it was the first time I had driven the car with the ITBs during the daytime. Previously, it was just during the evening/night for tuning and whatnot. I had heard that sometimes the camshaft position sensor can be sensitive to heat when they're on their way out, so it made sense that once the car sat for a while in the shade, it was good to go again. After letting it sit for the remainder of the day at work, it seemed to run pretty normal, except I couldn't go over 4k rpm or it would want to die in a similar way to how it acted earlier that day.
Ordered a new sensor that evening and had it a few days later.
In addition to picking up a new sensor, I decided to do a few other things at the same time, like ditch the cut valve cover, as I thought the vibration in the little tab the sensor was mounted on could have contributed to why it went out so quickly.
Here is how everything looked before I ditched the cut valve cover:
Over the next week, I swapped out the old camshaft sensor for a new one, in addition to installing a different NB valve cover from my other NB1.
I also swapped out the coolant reroute parts to reinstall the OEM coolant parts, as the radiator hose from the reroute (shown above) was causing all kinds of fitment issues and was just not in a great place with the ITBs.
After doing all this, the engine bay now looks like this:
OEM coolant path, OEM valve cover, new cam sensor right where it should be.
After doing all of this, the car now does not want to start. I can get it to crank very freely, but it just isn't turning over.
I have currently been able to find that:
The strange part about all of this is that the car ran pretty much fine when I drove it back home after discovering the cam sensor issue. I had the car running fairly well with the ITBs installed for a few weeks before this. None of the stuff that I did while switching out the valve cover and the coolant parts should have anything really to do with getting the car to start, which is why I'm so stumped right now. The MS itself hasn't had any issues really at all in the last couple years, which is another reason why I'm fairly confused why it wouldn't start after just doing simple stuff like this.
Any insight, ideas or recommendations on what to check next would be highly appreciated.
I'll try to list as much information as I can to see if anyone has some insight on what I can look for. I've currently spent the last two weeks trying to track down the cause of the no-start to no avail...the car is currently running ITBs, so don't eat me alive please?
Relevant parts:
Reverant Enhanced MSPSP
AE101 ITBs with Techno Toy Tuning Manifold
420cc yellow RX-8 injectors
TSE COP kit
Background:
3 weeks ago, I was getting on the highway after picking up some lunch, and at near WOT input, the car started bucking and the tach quickly read a solid "0". I managed to coast the car off and into a parking lot. Took a while to figure out exactly what was wrong, but I finally determined it was the camshaft position sensor on the front of the valve cover. I fiddled with it a little bit, let the car cool off, and was able to limp it back to work that day.
It was around 95 that day, and it was the first time I had driven the car with the ITBs during the daytime. Previously, it was just during the evening/night for tuning and whatnot. I had heard that sometimes the camshaft position sensor can be sensitive to heat when they're on their way out, so it made sense that once the car sat for a while in the shade, it was good to go again. After letting it sit for the remainder of the day at work, it seemed to run pretty normal, except I couldn't go over 4k rpm or it would want to die in a similar way to how it acted earlier that day.
Ordered a new sensor that evening and had it a few days later.
In addition to picking up a new sensor, I decided to do a few other things at the same time, like ditch the cut valve cover, as I thought the vibration in the little tab the sensor was mounted on could have contributed to why it went out so quickly.
Here is how everything looked before I ditched the cut valve cover:
Over the next week, I swapped out the old camshaft sensor for a new one, in addition to installing a different NB valve cover from my other NB1.
I also swapped out the coolant reroute parts to reinstall the OEM coolant parts, as the radiator hose from the reroute (shown above) was causing all kinds of fitment issues and was just not in a great place with the ITBs.
After doing all this, the engine bay now looks like this:
OEM coolant path, OEM valve cover, new cam sensor right where it should be.
After doing all of this, the car now does not want to start. I can get it to crank very freely, but it just isn't turning over.
I have currently been able to find that:
- Coils are not firing - The coils are getting 12v on the power wire, but the 5v signal wire on each of the COP connectors does not seem to be getting anything over 0.4v currently.
- Fuel injectors are not firing.
- TunerStudio is not showing RPM, injector pulsewidth, or ignition advance while cranking.
- TunerStudio accurately reads all other sensor inputs (TPS, air temp, water temp, etc.)
- Camshaft position sensor is working properly - verified with a 12v test light, multimeter and power probe.
- Crankshaft position sensor is working properly - verified with a 12v test light, multimeter and power probe.
- All fuses are good.
- All grounds are good.
- Fuel pump primes when the key is turned to the on position.
- New spark plugs as of 500 miles ago.
- New fuel injectors as of 500 miles ago.
- No wiring breaks in the fuel/ignition harness - verified while checking continuity with a multimeter.
The strange part about all of this is that the car ran pretty much fine when I drove it back home after discovering the cam sensor issue. I had the car running fairly well with the ITBs installed for a few weeks before this. None of the stuff that I did while switching out the valve cover and the coolant parts should have anything really to do with getting the car to start, which is why I'm so stumped right now. The MS itself hasn't had any issues really at all in the last couple years, which is another reason why I'm fairly confused why it wouldn't start after just doing simple stuff like this.
Any insight, ideas or recommendations on what to check next would be highly appreciated.
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06-19-2014, 07:47 PM
#3
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Swapped out the cam sensor for a known working one from my other NB1 and crank sensor for a new one, still nothing. I adjusted the crank sensor a few times to make sure the gap between it and the trigger wheel were small enough, and it still didn't turn over.
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