1st time Turbo - having issues with hot side IC and turbo outlet
 

My build is going pretty good but I have ran into an issue. The IC hot side pipe is a bugger to get on the turbo and then it does not want to stay there.

Here are 3 pics, and what I think has or needs to happen ??

Attachment 196521
Attachment 196522
Attachment 196523

Does my turbo need to be clocked more vertical?

The IC tube is hitting the outlet at an angle (more on one side) and should I trim the tube end at an angle ?

Install the IC tube 1st then install the turbo/mani?

Can you buy adaptors that angle the outlet better?

Seems like the radiator hose also pushes on the IC tube a bit. is that normal considering how little space is in there?

I don't like that the tube wants to come off so easily. It will hold while clamped but as I release clamping pressure it starts to make its way off on the block side then pop off completely.

I'm thinking clocking is the key but not sure how far to go without affecting the wastegate?

If I clock can I leave the turbo connected to the manifold?

dont cut on your IC pipe - you would need to change the angle of the pipe, not the angle of the end.

You're welcome to try clocking the turbo CCW a little bit.

I would just put the IC pipe on, and crank the snot out of the clamp. Your IC pipe is either too short, or it is routed on the wrong side of something.

clock the turbo more.


you should really replace the lower coolant hose with the one that FM supplies in their kits. that will free up more space.

I believe they sell a nice molded silicone hose now:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ssemble003.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ssemble005.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ssemble008.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ssemble018.jpg

it looks like clocking your turbo just a bit get everything to line up and should make it easier to install your i/c pipe. deff dont cut that sucker.

I have the same coolant hose as pictured. I'll clock the turbo today and see how that does.

Thanks

the get rid of that hard line in your pics!

There is a PWR steering line there right next to the inlet that looks like a hard line. Is that what you are referring to?

I have the same corrugated FM line

So I couldn't go to work and wonder all day if I could clock the turbo while its in place.

Well after removing the outside water line fitting I could just get a spanner in there and loosen 4 of the "clocking" bolts I'll call them. So because I was impatient I grabbed 2 crowbars and I clocked it good - real good, wamp dit dit wamp dit dit (from the movie A Simple Plan) Actually in the process I mildly squished the wastegate diaphragm housing. It's squished in maybe 2mm deep over the area of a thumb print.

Will the diaphragm be ok ?

I think I clocked it a bit to far as the WG rod angle looks way off. Can you tell me what you think in the pics?


Attachment 196514

Attachment 196515

Attachment 196516

I was just thinking - which can be tough after a few nights of little sleep.


Can I S-bend the rod? If so how do I remove it from the diaphragm side?

waste gate is fine.

looks like the angles are good now, just push the piping up.

I trust your judgement but with no experience in the matters of WG and diaphragms that angle wont hurt the WG from doing its job properly, if so great as I dont want to take the turbo out ever again !

I can put washers under the WG to WG bracket and Turbo to WG bracket to adjust the angle and/or bend the rod, sound like a plan ??

PS is it safe to test my boost guage and WG with an air compressor if I have no regulator ? I don't want to burst the diaphragm or hurt the spring in the gauge but I'd like to see them move under air pressure as part of pre running tests. I could do it while the tank is filling from empty and/or open the drain valve a bit so I get little pressure

i wouldn't if you couldn't regulate it...how much psi we talking?

I was thinking of using the fine blower attachment and when the tank starts up from 0 psi I would turn it on and I'd stick that on my WG tube test and then start again with the boost hose to see of it registers. Can you even get a 10 psi regulator, I dont know ?

It's pretty unscientific and leaves room for error and damage so I dont know. Almost like welding a gas tank and seeing if there was still fumes present - boom, guess there was.....croak....

Maybe we'll let a road test check for proper function.


A bicycle floor pump will work - I'll try that ?

Went home at lunch to get my MTB to ride home and quickly popped the IC tube on, it went on easy and stayed ! Then I put a spacer on one side of the WG actuator can where it mounts to the bracket. The actuator can is now much more inline, almost parrallel with the rod.

I tried my compressor on the WG and it seems fine to open and close. It doesn't snap back but come back at about half the rate it opens which is still quick but you do notice the slower return rate as if it is dampened. I know its a rubber diaphragm but hmmm.

Since I barely squished the can I must, ask is this normal ?

Yes it's normal, stop worrying :p It's going to open really fast because you're probably throwing 70+ psi at it.

Great thanks.

I searched to know more about WG preload but did not come up with a lot.

How many turns is a starting point for WG preload ? I have the MBC but I believe I still need a certain amount of preload on the actuator corect ?

dont test it with a compressor those things unregulated are usually around 100psi and that wg diaphragm never wants to c over 25 and thats a very high estimate imo. the rod is connected to the diaphragm in there so its flexible at its mounting point, being at an angle should not effect it just make sure you are still at your desired boost level and adjust if needed.

My test was done at low pressure but thanks for the tips. It looks to be working fine now.