450 to the wheels! NC/GTX2971r
This is now the highest whp NC out there...at least that I have seen. Ran 325 to the wheels two transmissions ago (track use) now it's back to turbo again. |
Pretty sick... I was wondering if this was the 2.5 swap. But looking at the video description confirmed it. This makes getting an NC really tempting. 06's are kinda cheap these days.
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It's been a while since I saw this car. I actually thought you sold it and bought a BRZ.
Glad to see you still have it. Still in the area? |
Originally Posted by thirdgen
(Post 1286682)
It's been a while since I saw this car. I actually thought you sold it and bought a BRZ.
Glad to see you still have it. Still in the area? Still rocking out in the lehigh valley! Hope to take it to one of the 1/2 mile/slip stream events once the tow vehicle is back together. |
did you had iat and coolant temperature issues on dyno? That's because you removed the bumper?
Very "man" power btw |
Nice numbers, good NC representation! :)
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Great numbers! This is the first I heard of a GT29 frame. Looks like Garrett is offering a GTX2967. Nice sizing to fill in the gap between the GT28 and GT30 frames.
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Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1286940)
Great numbers! This is the first I heard of a GT29 frame. Looks like Garrett is offering a GTX2967. Nice sizing to fill in the gap between the GT28 and GT30 frames.
The GT28 turbine wheel is a smaller 53.9mm 76-trim wheel. themoreyouknow.jpg |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1287136)
Not a new turbine wheel for Garrett, though. Just a new marketing name. This is the same 56.5mm 84-trim turbine wheel they've been selling for years in the "GT3071R", if you buy that turbo with a T25 turbine housing. The real GT3071R is only available in a T3 housing with a 60mm turbine wheel.
The GT28 turbine wheel is a smaller 53.9mm 76-trim wheel. themoreyouknow.jpg |
Nice job Mike. Maybe I'll see it on a LVMOC run next summer?
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1288243)
Nice job Mike. Maybe I'll see it on a LVMOC run next summer?
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Been reading MotoMike's thread over on M.NET about your setup and his associated turbo kit. I'm curious about your intake manifold; I know that Dynotronics has an FI-specific intake manifold in the works also.
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Originally Posted by albuquerquefx
(Post 1290138)
Been reading MotoMike's thread over on M.NET about your setup and his associated turbo kit. I'm curious about your intake manifold; I know that Dynotronics has an FI-specific intake manifold in the works also.
Here's our take on it. For FI you really don't need it. The composite works fine and if we can hit 450 wheel you probably won't need it until past 25 psi or whenever these seams will split. We went to 20 psi without issue. For NA you will benefit from ours above 6k RPM. We dyno tested it and due to packaging constraints (ours or the other one) you can't get a runner length over 4-5" in there. That means 6000+ rpm benefits only. You will lose about 10 hp below 5000 RPM. So that limits the customers to racers who are A: Allowed that modification B: Have 1000+ to spend on said part. So we've built them, one at a time, at a cost of about $1200 each for people we like. We picked up about 15-20 hp NA, about 30 or so FI at the same boost level. So is it worth it? Yup, sure is. But it ain't cheap. We have intake trumpets, and a large plenum space. The CNC one you see on m.net is gorgeous but it doesn't have much plenum volume. So not so hot for NA. At this point we're down to just 3 sets of flanges/runners/trumpets, and I'm not sure if we'll run more or not. At 1300/piece we're just barely making anything on it which is far too low to produce any part over the long term. Maybe the CNC one will be a good bit cheaper but until there's more info it will too likely be a hard sell in the end unless retail falls below 750 or so. |
If you're getting 30whp on stock cams and stock head, that's a pretty good lift for a "simple" manifold swap. Do you guys swap for a larger TB also?
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Originally Posted by albuquerquefx
(Post 1291561)
Do you guys swap for a larger TB also?
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450rwhp is nice, but dont you think you should remove the turbo and build a rotrex setup that makes half the torque so the pistons dont melt?
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Mann: What transmission are you using now? Do you feel that it's gonna hold up under this power? I'm hoping + crossing fingers that my NC2 Asin 6spd will hold up better than the NC1's did, but curious on your thoughts / findings.
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1292013)
Be interested if they did. No idea what the NC TB diameter is but the hole in the NC manifold sitting in the other room is about 63mm. Which makes the 62mm cable driven subaru TB that also has a 65x65mm square bolt pattern intriguing.
Ultimately, I'm most interested in the efficiency gain rather than the raw power figure. The stocker 2.0L block can only take so much; if I can hit my power target with a few less pounds of manifold pressure, everything gets just a little better for me. I know that Dynotronics also has an FI manifold in progress and will be testing directly against the Fab9 kit that I'm getting. I'll withhold final judgement (and payment details) until I get just a bit more data. |
Originally Posted by albuquerquefx
(Post 1291561)
If you're getting 30whp on stock cams and stock head, that's a pretty good lift for a "simple" manifold swap. Do you guys swap for a larger TB also?
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1292013)
Be interested if they did. No idea what the NC TB diameter is but the hole in the NC manifold sitting in the other room is about 63mm. Which makes the 62mm cable driven subaru TB that also has a 65x65mm square bolt pattern intriguing.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1292087)
450rwhp is nice, but dont you think you should remove the turbo and build a rotrex setup that makes half the torque so the pistons dont melt?
Originally Posted by albuquerquefx
(Post 1292147)
Mann: What transmission are you using now? Do you feel that it's gonna hold up under this power? I'm hoping + crossing fingers that my NC2 Asin 6spd will hold up better than the NC1's did, but curious on your thoughts / findings.
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Originally Posted by mann
(Post 1292505)
Actually we lost the first 2.5 with the rotrex at about 320 whp. Cracked the piston right in half at 11 psi. That was a good bit of timing though. The rotrex setup worked pretty good but we couldn't get the car to hold temps on track. It needs an electric water pump conversion with some serious sealing and thermostat to work on track. We're running the subarus instead now. Much more reliable.
a rotrex car that has problems? this cannot be. please change your post, it is hateful and offensive |
lol.
That is all. |
Originally Posted by mann
(Post 1292505)
This is the 3rd trans in the car, 2nd NC2 trans. The first burnt a 5th gear at 300 torque, the second lost the shift forks or syncros after a track day, the current one is going strong so far.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1292652)
Might be time for a quad4rods bell housing and astro gear t5 (and custom ppf adapter).
We do have something in the works for a t56. That's a much better suited trans for the miata. But a bit more work than the t5 it looks like. |
Any updates?
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1319280)
Any updates?
Currently diving it around, terrorizing just about anyone that gets in it. Need to make a proper roll bar for it and get the spare trans beefed up a bit then it may see some drift events this year. Short launch control/two step rolling cut action breaking in the new ceramic coat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R1c3KlkE-o |
What do you plan on doing to fix the overheating? What components did you have that allowed it to overheat?
What do you plan on doing to beef up the transmission? https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-gree...t-86322/page4/ I cross-posted some of your replies in that thread, where a few of us are theorizing about power levels, breakage, and such on 2.0's and 2.5's. Since you are way past the power level either of us want in that thread, your experience would be valuable. |
My personal thoughts are to just put some better head studs, cams, and valve springs on a stock 2.5 and then turbo it. Your post #22 in this thread where you say you had a choice between going all out or just turboing a stock 2.5 at 15 psi for 50k miles appeals to me. What power level do you think a stock 2.5 would be at 15 psi?
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1319288)
My personal thoughts are to just put some better head studs, cams, and valve springs on a stock 2.5 and then turbo it. Your post #22 in this thread where you say you had a choice between going all out or just turboing a stock 2.5 at 15 psi for 50k miles appeals to me. What power level do you think a stock 2.5 would be at 15 psi?
Valve springs and cams definitely. Our NA 1.5 cams worked perfect and we keept power to 7500 at 21 psi. At 15 psi it is at now we are about 350 torque/400 hp with meth/pump gas. I have a set of id1000s on the shelf for e85 use so we can run cooler at the track. That's probably all we need to get by. The stock 2.5 thing is a mixed bag. The Mazda version has forged rods, but they are pencil thin compared to the cast rods in the ford motor. Much lighter, but I'm not 100% convinced they are stronger. We have another 2.5 here that is at the machine shop to get the mains line honed, we will likely build that one instead while we find the limits of this motor. |
Regarding the recently cooked motor: are you running any aftermarket oil cooling?
Edit: also, you just using ECUtek features for your anti-lag? Sounds like launch control with some timing retard... |
Originally Posted by albuquerquefx
(Post 1319330)
Regarding the recently cooked motor: are you running any aftermarket oil cooling?
Edit: also, you just using ECUtek features for your anti-lag? Sounds like launch control with some timing retard... Correct on the ecutek stuff, we're dumping fuel and adding timing with a rolling cut to then generate whatever boost we want stationary. Pretty neat. Oh...and it's going to get worse :D |
I can't wait to see the results!
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