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I had the same issues with mine. Although, the flange on the DP wasn't the same as the stock mid pipe flange. So, obviously not the same situation but, still.
Looks like the TSE flange isn't even flat. Off to the exhaust shop. Ordered this **** so I wouldn't have to find a slot and drive a car with no exhaust an hour away to the only exhaust shop I trust. Should have just gone there 2 months ago and been done with it.
**** had I known you were looking for a full exhaust I could have helped you out. You are local enough to have gotten it done.
**** had I known you were looking for a full exhaust I could have helped you out. You are local enough to have gotten it done.
Yeah, that would have been nice... I didn't realize the lead time was so long for artech stuff, so I didn't order it until I basically had the car done. Hasn't been too bad since driving a car with no A/C around here the last couple months would have been miserable, but it was nice today, and I was hoping to drive the car to work...
Maybe ask Andrew what the bolt centers are on the flange he uses. Abe asked me but I didn't take a measurement before I went at the artech flange with the die grinder and now it's on the car. It's got a great tone... until you drive it. It sounds like the exhaust is hitting the drive shaft or some crap now.
You can't just take to unmatched flanges and torque them down. You'll bow one or both of them to create the gap you saw in the middle.
The flanges will line up, more than likely you have a slightly tweaked hanger you didn't notice, but then you took a grinder to the flange, so nothing can save you now.
You can't just take to unmatched flanges and torque them down. You'll bow one or both of them to create the gap you saw in the middle.
The flanges will line up, more than likely you have a slightly tweaked hanger you didn't notice, but then you took a grinder to the flange, so nothing can save you now.
I ground out the bolt hole slots in one of the flanges. Didn't touch the face of the flange. They did not line up at first - the bolt hole centers were ~.25" off on each side. Look at the picture above - it was like this on both sides, holding both the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust unmounted outside of the car. I took a bit more material out of the bolt holes yesterday - it still wasn't quite straight - and they lined up with enough slack to wiggle the pipe a little bit. Clamped it down and it seemed to seal pretty well even without a gasket.
The car was tilted to one side when I installed everything, so tonight I'll jack the whole thing up and do the old loosen/tighten everything to see if that centers it.
Well I was only home for 9 days in the month of September... spent a few days out in Monterey working the IMSA race and hung out in San Pedro square one evening. Neat place, for those of you in San Jose. I'm headed back out to MRLS next week for the MX5 Cup Challenge, might have to check it out again.
Anyway, I drove the Miata into work this morning. Did a 3rd gear pull, does anything look out of place before I take it to the dyno? I think I can lean it out a little bit, and hopefully smooth out the fueling as well so it doesn't bounce around quite so much. Also, 10psi seems like a lot for wastegate pressure - Andrew, is there a chance this shipped with the medium spring instead of the light spring? Other than that, what say you, turbo gurus?
As I am in Seneca, please report back where you go for Dyno, and how the session went, and how successful it was.
Also, I would think you'd level out your VE table before going to dyno 11-12, back and forth on the VD plot looks quite bad. You want to be able to load test certain cells and then interpolate to the others. With the result you have now, you're going to need to tune every cell. When I get home tonight I will look at your tune to see what does not make sense.
1) I'm a fan of "Incorporate AFR Target" in Fueling Calculation. Then you and your trusted tuner (or you and MT.net) can decide on proper AFR table and simply adjust VE at the dyno.
2) EGO authority is crazy huge. If you need 25% then again, street tune before dyno. I use 15% at idle area only to accommodate hot restarts on my EV6 injectors. Nothing else is above 6%.
3) Why are you table switching Fuel and Spark; and on separate inputs?
4) What do you plan to use for knock sensing?
5) Do you plan to tune up to waste gate only?
Here is 3D picture of your VE table:
Last edited by DNMakinson; 10-03-2017 at 05:52 PM.
As I am in Seneca, please report back where you go for Dyno, and how the session went, and how successful it was.
Also, I would think you'd level out your VE table before going to dyno 11-12, back and forth on the VD plot looks quite bad. You want to be able to load test certain cells and then interpolate to the others. With the result you have now, you're going to need to tune every cell. When I get home tonight I will look at your tune to see what does not make sense.
1) I'm a fan of "Incorporate AFR Target" in Fueling Calculation. Then you and your trusted tuner (or you and MT.net) can decide on proper AFR table and simply adjust VE at the dyno.
2) EGO authority is crazy huge. If you need 25% then again, street tune before dyno. I use 15% at idle area only to accommodate hot restarts on my EV6 injectors. Nothing else is above 6%.
3) Why are you table switching Fuel and Spark; and on separate inputs?
4) What do you plan to use for knock sensing?
5) Do you plan to tune up to waste gate only?
Here is 3D picture of your VE table:
Thanks for the feedback. I haven't gone over the VE table yet because I'm not done autotuning. My typical method is to let autotune get it to where it's happy and then smooth it by hand using the 3D map you showed above. I plan to do this before going to the dyno, but before doing any more wide open pulls I wanted to make sure everything looked good. Look at the AFR trace in the MSL, it's not as bad as the virtualdyno makes it look. Some of it is just noise from the analog signal and it trying to curve fit those values rather than doing some sort of RMS calculation.
1. I haven't done that because I'd have to start over on fueling, but I agree that would probably be a long term better option
2. Haven't ever needed that much authority, but it's been that way for the last 2 years I've driven the car (N/A) so I had no reason to change it. It's not active in boost cells anyway?
3. I'm not, those must be leftover values from the MSLabs base map
4. I have the knock sensor from my VVT engine wired in but I still have some exhaust rattles and such that I think are triggering it. I plan to use detcans on the dyno.
5. I plan to tune to 225ft-lbs... maybe 12psi? My plan would be to run wastegate pressure at the track and turn it up a smidge for putzing around on the street/canyons.
I've used Pompeii's mustang dyno in the past and it did the job. I've made some friends down in Atlanta that have offered to let me use their dyno for free though, so that's the plan in a few weeks.
I'll be at the Clemson game this weekend - if you're around we should meet up and grab a beer.
Dyno session and first track day complete. At around 11psi I settled here for my "street tune". "Track tune" was wastegate pressure and made 220whp/200 ft-lbs. No issues at all on the dyno.
Track day was not as smooth. First three sessions I would get some sort of spark/fuel cut when going wide open throttle. The car was plenty fast at 60% throttle so that's what I did for the rest of each session, but still disconcerting... First I thought it was boost spike, because in my log from a session I saw 175kpa (185kpa limit with 10kpa hysteresis?), but then the third session the CEL came on and it turned out to be a sync loss. Only under boost when transitioning to wide open throttle quickly coming out of a corner. After my third session, I pulled off the front and rear passenger side grounds and cleaned them up with a wire brush and put them back on. Ate lunch, then came back a couple hours later for session 4 and now my wideband (Innovate LC-2) is stuck warming up.
Help!
I tried redoing the free-air calibration but it won't get past the warmup stage anytime my sensor is plugged in. I plugged my sensor into someone else's Innovate MTX and it took a while to heat but worked fine. So it seems the controller has taken a dump? Does anyone have any experience with this?
Well, the lc2 is out and an Aem x-digital is in. Hooked up over CAN and running well. The data comes in so much cleaner digitally. Why doesn't everyone do this instead of the lc2/can box combo?lsu 4.9, everything hooks into the gauge and has can support out of the box for $180
For any who are curious - analog vs digital wideband readings (these are not from the same log, but both from WOT). Will it get you more power? No, but EGO and autotune will work better, and the setup costs less than an LC-2 and is easier to install...
For any who are curious - analog vs digital wideband readings (these are not from the same log, but both from WOT). Will it get you more power? No, but EGO and autotune will work better, and the setup costs less than an LC-2 and is easier to install...
Which is which, and what smoothing settings were you using with the analog?
08-25-2017, 01:31 PM
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