Worth Going from Greddy to Begi-S???
#1
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Worth Going from Greddy to Begi-S???
As i am still waiting for my Begi Greddy DP from Cocky and that has taken alot longer then my orginal plans. while that is going on, I wonder if I want to continue building up the Greddy kit or just jump in the bang wagon with an BEGI-S and start fresh?
What should I do???
What should I do???
#3
Ben made plenty of power on his greddy so I don't really see a reason to drop it all and go with the BEGI-S. If you max out the greddy then you might as well upgrade but I don't really consider the S kit much of an upgrade considering it doesn't come with an intercooler setup though you could use your current one easily. If you want an upgrade then install a 19T compressor on your greddy turbo or some similar upgrade for more power. Considering where you live it should be easy and cheap to upgrade your greddy setup.
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Thanks guys, I'll try to bit the bullet with the Greddy kit until the Begi DP arrives.
Just today, I've done some dyno runs and see where I am at with my set up. Please review.
RED line : 6psi
Green and BLUE : 8psi
- Power comes very very late, not sure if that's becoz of the Autotune of the EMB.
- AFR is super rich at the bottom, EMB is not much help with that on 326cc injectors.
Please comment:
Just today, I've done some dyno runs and see where I am at with my set up. Please review.
RED line : 6psi
Green and BLUE : 8psi
- Power comes very very late, not sure if that's becoz of the Autotune of the EMB.
- AFR is super rich at the bottom, EMB is not much help with that on 326cc injectors.
Please comment:
#5
Dude, you are way lean in boost on that 8psi run. TURN IT DOWN! I can't believe your dyno operator continued that run when you went that lean. Most dyno operators I know will stop a run short if it looks like you're going to blow through 13:1. Touching 13:1 isn't all that bad, but blowing straight through it up to 14.2 is a clear sign you need a new place to dyno.
The stock Greddy kit isn't designed to run that much boost... DON'T DO IT AGAIN! I also can't believe it wasn't knocking like crazy.
So, for the price of a BegiS, $1800... you can do this.
Megasquirt PnP+LC1+EBC+IAT=$1000
eBayIC setup: $300
Bosch BOV: $30
RX7 550's cleaned: $150
ACT HD w/6puck: $350
Turn it up to 14psi and run 220-230whp no problem.
The stock Greddy kit isn't designed to run that much boost... DON'T DO IT AGAIN! I also can't believe it wasn't knocking like crazy.
So, for the price of a BegiS, $1800... you can do this.
Megasquirt PnP+LC1+EBC+IAT=$1000
eBayIC setup: $300
Bosch BOV: $30
RX7 550's cleaned: $150
ACT HD w/6puck: $350
Turn it up to 14psi and run 220-230whp no problem.
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I don't have the desire to translate your funky measurement units, but from what is obvious, your car spools pretty late. You really need that downpipe. It's also very badly tuned, and the dyno operator is a douche on many levels, not just for what Sam said, but also he used a wrong final drive ratio. So those plots are all pretty much meaningless.
#8
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DOOP! >.<
The first run was abit nerve racking! While it was shooting through the roof on the AFR, but there was not ping what so ever, it may be the gas we are running here 98Oct.
Immediately I had to change the Injector correction factor from 290cc back to 260cc. It helped to bring the whole AFR back down.
Since I am also running an Vortech 7:1 disc, I will try swapping out an 4:1 and retune the autotune.
I had been waiting for my Begi DP for the Greddy kit since August of 2007. I hope Stephanie is going to send them out shortly.
The first run was abit nerve racking! While it was shooting through the roof on the AFR, but there was not ping what so ever, it may be the gas we are running here 98Oct.
Immediately I had to change the Injector correction factor from 290cc back to 260cc. It helped to bring the whole AFR back down.
Since I am also running an Vortech 7:1 disc, I will try swapping out an 4:1 and retune the autotune.
I had been waiting for my Begi DP for the Greddy kit since August of 2007. I hope Stephanie is going to send them out shortly.
#12
Unless you've got an EGT gauge and knock sensor for street tuning, a dyno is going to be good for you to tune timing. But a lot of the homework has already been done on timing tables, and you could probably just upload one of the more aggressive ones we use in the states and be PLENTY safe on your 98octane stuff.
And any competent dyno operator should be able to look at Megatune for about 5 minutes and figure everything out as far as the fuel and spark tables. All the other little software stuff is very cleanly organized and easy to find. I bet there are a few guys over there who would love to tune a Megasquirt. There are going to be a lot more of them in the very near future.
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