Harv

iTrader: (4)

One of my buddies pointed out that I finally busted the one of the turbo studs off the Greddy manifold. It has the relief cuts.

Yay.

Anyone ever get these out with ez-outs or am I gonna have to drill and tap the thing?

Gah, if only the ArTech manifold wasn't $500.

Edit: I dunno why I bother posting things and THEN searching. I think I'll find a machine shop to remove the studs and then go to the bolts.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Here's a question. Did the Greddy kit originally come with bolts? I think the previous owner of mine has it setup with studs and nuts. I am seeing threads where people talk about studs, but others talk about bolts on this thing.

Maybe I'm looking at the thing wrong though. I'll take it apart tonight and see.

albertogti117

iTrader: (2)

Are you referring to the turbo-to-manifold connection? I think the original kit came with studs there and bolts for the downpipe.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Can't remember what I have. All I know is that was the one location I didn't have issues when pulling off the turbo/mani/downpipe.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, sorry, turbo to manifold. Mine has studs and nuts on that section.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Found this link from Savington in one of the other threads I searched.

Trackspeed Engineering

$155. I autocross a fair amount with this. Wondering if I should bite the bullet and go with those.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Harv, Trackspeed kit is 10mm studs and IIRC the Greddy uses 8mm. It's going to be a bunch of work to install those, if there is even enough clearance on the Greddy (I have no clue.) At the risk of costing Andrew a sale, you may want to look at what Hornetball did with his Greddy and OEM Nissan 8mm inconel hardware.

Edit: Ok, to be fair, I reread the thread and Hornet is using the 10mm kit for the turbo to manifold and the OEM Nissan stuff for turbo to downpipe. Seems like a lot of work for a Greddy, but if that's what it takes then so be it.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

For the manifold to turbo, I put in Andrew Savington's stud kit. Basically, took my manifold and turbine housing to a machine shop to get the broken bolt remnants drilled out. They drilled, tapped and installed the 10mm studs for me and also drilled the turbine housing for 10mm. I'd have to look it up, but it wasn't that expensive. Drilling the turbine housing was a give-away.

For turbo to downpipe, I used the Nissan Inconel bolts that I drilled and safety-wired.

In general, you should use studs for connections that are likely to seize (such as the super high-heat manifold to turbo joint). Think about it . . . what you have to do is break the connection between a threaded hole and a threaded shaft. With a bolt, that connection is buried in your manifold and subjected to heat from Hell. With a stud, that connection is in the nut and sits outside where you can see it. Still hot, but not nearly as bad. I didn't follow this rule with my original build and paid the price.

BTW, if you use Andrew's studs and then change your setup later, you can recover and reuse that hardware and only be out the cost for replacement Resbond.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I think it really depends on whether I can find someone to do the work for me as I will likely mess it up royally if I try to DIY as I do not have the tools to do it well.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

I went the same route as Hornetball (except I used 8mm incomes studs from ARP/FM for the down pipe.)

There's plenty of room in the X dimension and drilling only gets tedious in the Y (depth) to avoid through drilling. I took my manifold to a machine shop and in an hour they surface milled it and drilled/tapped - 25 bucks.

Having been in Sheldon CT, I'm confident you can find a machine shop to do this. Also, unless you plan on tracking the car you can probably run 10.9 10mm studs and be fine. I went Inconel because I like spending money.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

It's more the autocross issue and if I have a co-driver the repeated runs that I'd worry about. I've already busted off one stud on the thing, though it took me a few years to do it.

I hit the Googles and there seem to be a few shops around my town.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I'm taking the car apart now. Gotta get some long extensions to get at the three bolts on the bottom of the manifold. Once I have the whole thing off I can get a good look at how everything is holding up. If it's just the stud then I'll probably look into getting it drilled and possibly going to Savington's stud kit.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Just run the OEM nissan 8mm Inconel studs, they're $5.95 a piece. I'm not seeing a downside besides them being harder to remove if you break one off.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Nissan Inconel studs? Where can I get them online?

Are we talking about these?

http://www.importpartspro.com/ni30oemtutod2.html

I'm searching through the forum and that's what I'm finding, but obviously that's a bolt, not a stud.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I got mine here, Performance Aftermarket and OEM Parts for the 300ZX 350Z G35 G37 240SX Skyline GT-R Nissan Peformance lineup

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info.

I could also just go with the FM stud kit.

Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs

Gets me the locking hardware and what not as well. Assuming I need that. And it's still 8mm as opposed to the trackspeed kit which would require me to drill out the manifold and turbo.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Drill and tap the manifold and don't look back

I did so and put in exhaust manifold bolts I had laying around with Nord locks. Hasn't budged.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

So, you're suggesting the Trackspeed version of things? IE, drill it out for bigger (10mm) studs/bolts?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Yes

Harv

iTrader: (4)

This is at least giving me an excuse to buy new tools since the last time I took the car apart I used my buddies tools.



Unfortunately, he is deployed at the moment.