BEGi Shanghai-S Installed but Overboosting
 

So I just installed my BEGi Shanghai-S kit last night. It went pretty well except one of the bolts on the flange at the bottom of the stock manifold got stuck and I had to saw the pipe in order to remove it. Drilling the oil pan was kind of frightening, but I survived, haha.

I immediately hooked up my friends LM-1 wideband, and got the AFR's pretty close to where they need to be, but even with the AFR's looking good I was getting pretty bad detonation when I got into boost. I didn't have a boost gauge last night so I couldn't tune it any further last night.

Then, This morning I buy a cheap sunpro boost guage from autozone, and hooked it up.
I immediately found out why I was fighting detonation, when I get into the throttle the boost shoots up passed 10psi, I never got a chance to see how high it would go because I let off as soon as I saw the boost going that high. I tried making a pull several times, and every time is zipped right up passed the 10psi mark.

I just tried lengthening the wastegate actuator a bit, but I could only screw it out a few turns before it was getting real loose like it was at the end of its threads.

So basically, WTF is going on? The instructions for the shanghai-S say that the turbo comes with a 5psi wastegate.
Is it possible BEGi sent me a turbo with a 12psi wastegate on it? lol


oh, and heres pics:

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Yes

Why would they do that when I order a non-intercooled kit with an FMU, my setup could never support 12+ psi.
I was aiming more for like 5-6 psi...

Its my opinion that overboosting is god's way of telling you to ru more boost.

An accident? They are only human. Call them.

I tried earlier but I suppose theyre closed on saturdays.
Ill call them on monday.

mine also over boost.
i wanted to run 7lbs but once u hit 14 u cant go back down that low...

youre shanghai wastegate wouldnt open till 14psi? lol

im hoping i can get a lower pressure wastegate or figure out what the problem is, it cant stay like this

Do you have a shop compressor? If so, just use the regulator to control the pressure and test the wastegate that way. Use an air nozzle and press it into the hose. Slowly turn up the pressure bit by bit on the regulator and see at what pressure the wastegate opens all the way.

A bicycle pump can work too, just have to figure out how to attach it to the vac line.

There is no possible way we sent the wrong actuator with a Shanghai turbo, sorry. We re-use the actuator it comes with, and the Garrett one does not fit without modification. It is a 7 psi actuator that is adjustable. You need to keep adjusting the arm length until the boost level drops. If that does not work, call Corky or Tim and they can come up with an extension for you.
Stephanie

Could be a China quality control issue? Have the wastegate loose and check boost. If you get near zero boost, you know it's the wastegate. It the signal line to it ok?

Ive ran the car with the actuator rod disconnected and it doesnt build any boost, the wastegate opens up. But with the actuator connected but screwed almost all the way out Im still seeing the boost go sky high. Im not sure when the wastegate is opening because I get scared and let off around 10.

Uhm. That doesnt sound like a solution. Just a bandaid.

Im about to go try threading the actuator out as far as I can, I guess Ill lengthen it until I just have to put a little bit of tension on it to get in to slip over the lever pin, that way it will hopefully still seal up.

Ill report back if this fixes it, but Im not really expecting it to fix it.

Yeah try it with just enough tension to hold the WG shut like you described above. You can probably get away with just 3-4 threads of engagement if it has a locknut on it.

Alright I just tried it, and the wastegate is now opening at 8-9 psi, which is better because I know its actually opening, but its still too much boost.
I set it so theres just a tiny bit on tension holding the wastegate closed, I dont really think I can go any looser without having the wastegate leak, which will kill spool... so yah...

oh also, I did a little pull in 4th to get a general feel for spool, I was getting 5psi by 3000 rpm and 8psi by 4000 rpm. Im running the racing beat mid pipe and the racing beat power-pulse muffler.
Ill get some real data soon for the spool-up data thread.

u need an intercooler.

yeah, get an intercooler and you'll be alright until you upgrade to some fuel management

Yah I think so. My buddy just built his D16 in his civic and is going for big boost, so Im going to see if I can get his old intercooler for him, since Im sure hes going to need a bigger one.
Ill take some measurements first.

That or just add some water injection. Cheaper and easier than an IC, and should be fine for what you are doing.

hey tyson, what did you have to modify in order to get that garrett wastegate bracket and actuator to work on your shanghai?
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I may very well do that. I was looking at the Cooling-Mist kist for 200 bucks on ebay. Also, I was thinking of maybe doing direct port W/I, I used to run direct port nitrous on this car and I could pull the pipe thred plugs out of my manifold and put the W/I nozzles in pretty easily :giggle:

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There was one or two - at the very beginning - that went with Garrett actuators instead of the Chinese one. That is probably what happened with tyson's.
Stephanie

oh okay, so is it terribly difficult to modify it to work? and can the turbo stay clocked the way it is?

Even if I do add an intercooler or W/I Im still maxing out the FMU on 9-10psi

Just to share a little of my experience,

On my 99 I had the BEGi-S and their FMU... added IC and 305 injectors and did nothing to control timing.

Started to run E85 about 50/50 at first and then started to go 60/40 E85:93 gas mix. Ran 11PSI all day long in summer with no knock.

If you can run E85, I encourage you to try since it will kill the knock while you wait for an ECU solution.

Ran like this for over a year with no issues. All on a 99 with an auto!

Cheers,
Prospero

Yeah if they are 1/8" NPT (looks like it) then you are set. All you need is a manifold to split the flow to the nozzles. You still only need one check valve. Just get a DO kit (comes with two nozzles you select), two extra 1 gpm nozzles, a manifold, and run it off of the washer fluid bottle, which is big enough for now. The DO nozzles screw in from the outside. Done

There was a WI thread around here somewhere showing a 4-into-1 WI fitting thing that would work for the manifold. Search around and you will find the thread.

Unless you get a smoking deal on a drop-in IC kit (no fab, like BEGI, FM, or TDR) then this will be a lot easier and cheaper IMO.

also make sure u get ur pipes welded with the bung for ur IAT

what do u mean "fab"? all we had to do was cut two pipes for mine to work



that was my parts list
along with the intercooler from cxracing