Cant decide... Greddy kit or custom kit?
 

The more i keep reading about DIY turbo builds the i keep running into all these threads about stuff not fitting right.

I like the idea go buying a greddy kit and slowly upgrading it as i want more power. Im looking to get maybe 160 rwhp or so but would like to be able to go up to 180 after i get board. So my question is how much power will have have with a brand new out of the box greddy kit. And how much additional parts will i need to get more power out of it.

Thanks

Standard Greddy kit should give an extra 40BHP or so, so you'll probably be up around 160BHP at 6PSI if you have a non-restricted 1.6.
If you want more power (8-10PSI) then get larger injectors, fuel pump, intercooler, timing control....probably missed something else but that's basically about it.

so the basic kit for around 1200 can get me to around 160 rwhp on a 1.6? Stock injectors are ok? then if i want more i will need to ge a bieps/1.8 injectors ect?

no, 160 brake (flywheel) HP is what he said.

oh ok i wasnt exactly sure if there was just a typo. Does anyone know how long an oem clutch will last under 160 BHP? i dont plan on dumping the clutch or launching it but would like to make the oem one work as long as possible, Or is this just insane and not going to work at all? it got a new clutch at 93k and the car just hit 99k yesterday

I'm in the same boat as you, clutch-wise. I run my Greddy @ 5 psi and the clutch seems to be able to take it. Anything more than that and you'll want to replace it. I'm going to install my ACT before I turn the boost up. You want to look into using a 94+ rear end too.

ya the torsen, Im curious how was the install with the greddy kit? are you satisfied with the power it gives? And how does the tuning go with a greddy kit?

i spent about 1800$ so far and this is what the set up ima putting on

greddy kit
1.8 injectors (tan)
intercooler
i havent spent any money on a clutch but i got a brand new oem clutch from a friend for super cheap so i took it.
*i have a stock rear end but it has lsd
*manuel boost controller
i planning on pushing it to 6 or 7 psi
i might break something but wheres the fun of cars if nothing brakes haha

good luck with everything

if you have stock wheels or something that wieghs the same your rear end should be fine

The install wasn't too horrible. Be careful with the oil feed adapter (fragile), don't overtorque it. You'll want to make manifold cuts, and probably replace the turbo hardware with grade 8 bits. You have to trim the little bracket for the hardline between two of the runners so that it fits with the manifold. Go easy on the stock 1.6 rear end of course. A Torsen isn't mandatory but it's nice to have :)

Mike - the 1.6 rear does not become any stronger just from having a LSD.

hey thesnowboarder, got pics of your lip installs? I used to have a GReddy kit on my car. I put down 150hp @ the wheels running hella lean with 10 deg timing and an rx7 intercooler, 1.8 injectors @ 6psi. It definitely was fun. That being said, I'm running a completely stock setup now, and I think it's more fun in some ways because you don't have enough power to get yourself in trouble.

Since you live in California, you might look into a kit with a CARB sticker. You will need CARB sticker for your smog inspection unless you know of friendly smog station.

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Arnt the greddy kits carb legal? Thats why i was leaning twords the gredd or begi kit..

Yes. Carb EO # D-397

awesome thanks!

What else will be needed with the greddy kit, or is the kit all i will need to run 6 psi?

awesome thanks!

What else will be needed with the greddy kit, or is the kit all i will need to run 6 psi? And does anyone know what i will need to do in order to get it running properly?

greddy is plug and play... my suggestion when ypu plan to go more is to get a pnp megasquirt and go with that over bandaids.

By itself, the Greddy kit is ready to run at 5PSI. It includes a non-adjustable fuel pressure regulator. It does not include any form of ignition control, so you must manually retard the ignition timing to between 4° and 6° BTDC.

Before installing the manifold, use a hacksaw to make the relief cuts on the head flange. Searching around here for "relief cut" will give you some pictures. Also, as the kits ship out, the wastegate rod is often too loose (long), causing the wastegate itself not to seal properly. Adjusting this is easy after the turbo is on the car. While using pliers to prevent the rod from rotating, loosen the locknut. Remove the locking pin and lift the rod off the wastegate arm. Again, using the pliers to hold the rod steady, rotate the end piece a turn or two, and test-fit it on the arm. You want it just tight enough that it's a bit of a stretch to get it up and over the pin on the wastegate arm. It'll make sense when you see it.

You will quickly tire of running at 5PSI. Fortunately, the Greddy kit comes with so few additional pieces that there's not much to throw out as you start upgrading.

A few pieces you might want to do right off the bat, however. One is a better downpipe, such as the one made by BEGi. Fitting this requires removing the turbo, so why not do it right away. Another is a wideband O2 sensor. It's just a good tool to have in general.

Don't bother upgrading the fuel pump. You'll be bypassing the FPR when upgrade time comes, and the stock pump will be fine at that point.

Invest in some NGK BKR7E spark plugs as cheap insurance. And a week or three before you install the turbo (depending on how much you drive) run your fuel tank as empty as you dare, and switch to 91 octane that that point. Try to get a couple of tankfuls through to purge out all the low octane gas from the system before boosting time.

A new downpipe and exhaust right off the bat is a GREAT mod. It really wakes the kit up. It's also nice because it's simple, just bolt it up.

You also should drill and tap the pan.