Drop subframe to install BEGI DP?
 

After some searching I've come to the conclusion that I'm not the only one having some problems with the BEGI S internal gate turbo downpipe.

The issue is that the DP doesn't fit into the body when assembled, it comes in two pieces and you slide them together from under the car and from the engine bay, a rod pulls the two together in a slip joint, but it commonly breaks and causes grief. Many people just weld it together or switch to a V band setup. I'm personally happy with welding, however the flanges on my DP dont allow any room to slide the pipe in from the top OR bottom unless its in two pieces.

https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/...4a&oe=54778D7B
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...34140456_n.jpg

I was thinking about dropping the subframe a few inches to allow room, is this a viable option? My reading points to yes, but I haven't found any posts from people who may have done it.
I've done this exact same thing for the downpipes in my audi A6, the whole engine and subframe had to move, Experience says it will work, but I've never done this on a miata.

Maybe disconnect the PPF and rock the engine forward on its mounts? Doesn't look like you need much.

Also, I think the reported problems on the slip joint are overblown. I've got the BEGI Greddy replacement on my car. It has a slip joint too. No problems, although I did secure the downpipe to the OEM transmission exhaust brace using one of those stainless steel band clamps you see in the parts stores.

I did see one thread where someone rocked the engine to the passenger side with some luck, but they had a flangeless downpipe that could fit easier. I'll look into trying that though, its literally a matter of an inch that I need.

You were never any good at Dr. Operation as a child were you?

I am pretty sure I brought mine in from the bottom up.

I know my Artech 3" has to be put in with the manifold off.

I can vouch for this, at least for removal. Much easier with everything connected to the manifold.

I have Begi Separated gasses down pipe 3" that is welded together. I put mine in before the manifold as well.

Edit: I also cut into the edge of the lip and folded over the lip to give myself an extra 3/4" to 1" of space to work with. I was also having boost creep because the wastegate couldn't open all the way. I added another t25 flange to the downpipe to give the flapper enough room to open all the way. If i was at home I'd take a picture of what i did but it turned out clean and gave me some nice space.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1409160514

or this http://www.mekalummezar.com/carpics/ul6.jpg :party:

you know you can rotate the DP into any position you deserve to make it fit down the tranny tunnel...the flange doesn't HAVE to point in the correct direction to get it down the hole...


I also dont see why so many people have issues with their slip joints. I ran mine without a bolt/welds/glue/gum.

For my Artech pipe, I had to loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up to get about 1/4" clearance. It didn't matter if the manifold was in or not. Either way, small fish compared to tracking down the damn oil galley plug leak.

I'll have to try gum :idea:

The issue is clearance with the block and frame, I've tried rotating it a number of ways and it comes VERRRRY close to making it through but something is always just a few millimeters in the way.

I'll give rocking the engine a little a try. Miata is up as high as I feel safe putting it so I'll also try worming it in from the bottom.

Honestly when I dropped the engine back in with the turbo & downpipe on the engine it slipped into the bay like buttah.

Overkill, but just so you know.:giggle:

Damn, I wasn't so lucky because the downpipe would hit the steering column. Even now, as soon as I loosen the V-band, it wants to pin up against the column.

Audi's official instructions for downpipe replacement on my C5 A6 is to remove the front end, loosen the subframe, and slide the engine forward.

rocking the engine to install this DP is just as simple as changing a distributor to me now. lol

Yeesh, reminds me of my VW TDI. Have to remove the right axle and/or the lower subframe if you are unlucky to get at the downpipe/turbo. Not to mention they are all TTY bolts so you have to replace them after removal.

After taking apart 2 Miata and fully reassembling mine, nothing really scares me or is difficult now. Just don't want to have to remove the CAS/rear thermostat/rear coolant reroute. Hear that is a bitch.

Unbolt the driver's side motor mount and lightly jack the motor up about an inch. I bet it will slide right in

did the unbolt of the engine mount, DP dropped right in. worked great right up until my brother ran the car into a tree. D'OH

retard.

:brain:

Alls good, picked up this little gem for a steal!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...bf9bba850d626d

now I just have to reconfigure my MS2 for VVT. but thats a ways off because im not stuffing that china charger into this thing. garrett time.