EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)
05-24-2010, 10:06 AM
#1122
I will have some track time on my Nissan RB26 OEM Inconel studs shortly.
$6/stud $3/nut.
Manifold side is m10x1.5 and oddly the turbo side is m10x1.25
I ran these on my old built RB26 (585AWHP on dyno dynamics) at 1.8BAR without any issues. The car also saw some hard track days however no real "racing"... so it will be tough to compare.
Hopefully they will be good enough for me.
$6/stud $3/nut.
Manifold side is m10x1.5 and oddly the turbo side is m10x1.25
I ran these on my old built RB26 (585AWHP on dyno dynamics) at 1.8BAR without any issues. The car also saw some hard track days however no real "racing"... so it will be tough to compare.
Hopefully they will be good enough for me.
No vendor seems interested (can't blame them) in sending me measurements.
-Zach
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05-25-2010, 02:21 AM
#1127
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 349
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First, go re-read post #667.
Then, after digesting that for awhile, try #1098.
Okay, to be fair, I had to wade through a cat fight between applying #667 and finding the info. Such is life on the intarwebz.
Then, after digesting that for awhile, try #1098.
Okay, to be fair, I had to wade through a cat fight between applying #667 and finding the info. Such is life on the intarwebz.
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07-05-2011, 05:39 PM
#1128
This will sound pretty dumb, but... Does anyone, anywhere know what I did to my car??
In late 2005 I replaced my studs, the 8mm ones would break ~every month or two, with some McMaster.com 10mm ones. I'm trying to figure out the material. Everyone tells me I'm an *******, but the truth is, they have not broken once since then.... and I forgot what I did!
I REALLY want to put the same, 100% trouble-free, studs in my car on this new manifold. I don't want to argue with the people who tell me it won't* work. So, does anyone have any idea where I may have posted a part number?!?!
(breaking 15 times in 24 months -> 0.625 failures per month. Assume my current studs break tomorrow, 1 failure in 5.5 years so 0.0152 fpm. That means my new studs are over 40 times as "good". Spending Big Money on studs is lame. Spending $2/each was worth it.)
In late 2005 I replaced my studs, the 8mm ones would break ~every month or two, with some McMaster.com 10mm ones. I'm trying to figure out the material. Everyone tells me I'm an *******, but the truth is, they have not broken once since then.... and I forgot what I did!
I REALLY want to put the same, 100% trouble-free, studs in my car on this new manifold. I don't want to argue with the people who tell me it won't* work. So, does anyone have any idea where I may have posted a part number?!?!
(breaking 15 times in 24 months -> 0.625 failures per month. Assume my current studs break tomorrow, 1 failure in 5.5 years so 0.0152 fpm. That means my new studs are over 40 times as "good". Spending Big Money on studs is lame. Spending $2/each was worth it.)
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07-05-2011, 09:09 PM
#1130
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NH
Posts: 64
Total Cats: -2
This will sound pretty dumb, but... Does anyone, anywhere know what I did to my car??
In late 2005 I replaced my studs, the 8mm ones would break ~every month or two, with some McMaster.com 10mm ones. I'm trying to figure out the material. Everyone tells me I'm an *******, but the truth is, they have not broken once since then.... and I forgot what I did!
I REALLY want to put the same, 100% trouble-free, studs in my car on this new manifold. I don't want to argue with the people who tell me it won't* work. So, does anyone have any idea where I may have posted a part number?!?!
(breaking 15 times in 24 months -> 0.625 failures per month. Assume my current studs break tomorrow, 1 failure in 5.5 years so 0.0152 fpm. That means my new studs are over 40 times as "good". Spending Big Money on studs is lame. Spending $2/each was worth it.)
In late 2005 I replaced my studs, the 8mm ones would break ~every month or two, with some McMaster.com 10mm ones. I'm trying to figure out the material. Everyone tells me I'm an *******, but the truth is, they have not broken once since then.... and I forgot what I did!
I REALLY want to put the same, 100% trouble-free, studs in my car on this new manifold. I don't want to argue with the people who tell me it won't* work. So, does anyone have any idea where I may have posted a part number?!?!
(breaking 15 times in 24 months -> 0.625 failures per month. Assume my current studs break tomorrow, 1 failure in 5.5 years so 0.0152 fpm. That means my new studs are over 40 times as "good". Spending Big Money on studs is lame. Spending $2/each was worth it.)
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07-05-2011, 10:21 PM
#1131
Tour de Franzia
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My Inco CHRA studs have survived 2 days at MSR-C, 2 days at TWS (roval), 2 days at Hallett, and 2 days at HHR. I think it's safe to say the rolled-thread Inco bolts work.
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07-06-2011, 05:12 PM
#1133
Tour de Franzia
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I have no pics of the bolts, but I got them from TiAL. I'm not sure who can get them but if you guys are interested I'll talk to my forum-buddy at TiAL and see if he will do another run of them. As far as I know I have the only set. They are not cheap though, $120 for the bolts and another $100 or so for EDM drilling.
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07-07-2011, 04:05 PM
#1134
Former Vendor
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Hustler is talking about his CHRA hardware, which is sourced through TiAL and then drilled elsewhere since TiAL refused to drill it, despite being asked to on multiple occasions. If you're looking for Inconel studs with rolled threads, I think we have one set left in stock, with more on order.
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07-08-2011, 07:31 AM
#1135
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
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First of all, this thread has grown to large to read through again so I`ll take my chances on that this has not yet been mentioned...
A friend of mine has this giant BorgWarner truck turbo and I noticed that the turbine housing bolts were secured with a metal plate between pairs of bolts and then the metal was bent in on the sides to secure it from coming out due to vibration.
Tried searching the web but closest I could find was this image;
175d9cf5.jpg
Like the metal plates between the compressor housing bolts on this one, but with the ends of the plates bent inward to hold the bolt head and secure it from coming loose from vibration.
Could this coupled with inconel bolts cure the problem? Hell of a lot easier than having inconel studs EDM`ed and wired. (Only have to source a plate that fits...)
A friend of mine has this giant BorgWarner truck turbo and I noticed that the turbine housing bolts were secured with a metal plate between pairs of bolts and then the metal was bent in on the sides to secure it from coming out due to vibration.
Tried searching the web but closest I could find was this image;
175d9cf5.jpg
Like the metal plates between the compressor housing bolts on this one, but with the ends of the plates bent inward to hold the bolt head and secure it from coming loose from vibration.
Could this coupled with inconel bolts cure the problem? Hell of a lot easier than having inconel studs EDM`ed and wired. (Only have to source a plate that fits...)
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07-08-2011, 09:04 AM
#1136
Cpt. Slow
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With a little work you could make your own, you only need to pair two bolts at a time. They're used on motorcycle rotors on sets of two.
I thought you were going to suggest it as a fix instea of inconel, I was going to have to ban you.
I thought you were going to suggest it as a fix instea of inconel, I was going to have to ban you.
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07-08-2011, 10:22 AM
#1137
Yes, it's been discussed. A Nissan locking tab does just that:
They're not reusable, so Stage 8 hardware is still the preferred method, IMO.
As far as stretching. I'm using a spring washer that seems to be working fine on my street car (with resbond and locking hardware of course). If someone wants to try them on a track car, send me a PM and I'll send you a set. The clamp-to-flat load is 3300lbs for a M8 washer. The only thing I'm worried about is them losing the spring properties under track temps.
They're not reusable, so Stage 8 hardware is still the preferred method, IMO.
As far as stretching. I'm using a spring washer that seems to be working fine on my street car (with resbond and locking hardware of course). If someone wants to try them on a track car, send me a PM and I'll send you a set. The clamp-to-flat load is 3300lbs for a M8 washer. The only thing I'm worried about is them losing the spring properties under track temps.
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07-08-2011, 10:40 AM
#1138
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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As far as stretching. I'm using a spring washer that seems to be working fine on my street car (with resbond and locking hardware of course). If someone wants to try them on a track car, send me a PM and I'll send you a set. The clamp-to-flat load is 3300lbs for a M8 washer. The only thing I'm worried about is them losing the spring properties under track temps.
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07-08-2011, 12:05 PM
#1139
We're trying to solve two different problems. I'm not trying to use washers as a locking mechanism. Resbond and stage 8 hardware are used for that purpose. What the spring washers do, is allow for thermal expansion in both the flanges and studs themselves without deformation. BTW, I highly doubt the washers you used had a clamp load higher than a couple of hundred pounds. The thickest Belleville made is somewhere around 300lbs to flat, which is not enough to mount the turbo securely.
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07-08-2011, 12:16 PM
#1140
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NH
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We're trying to solve two different problems. I'm not trying to use washers as a locking mechanism. Resbond and stage 8 hardware are used for that purpose. What the spring washers do, is allow for thermal expansion in both the flanges and studs themselves without deformation. BTW, I highly doubt the washers you used had a clamp load higher than a couple of hundred pounds. The thickest Belleville made is somewhere around 300lbs to flat, which is not enough to mount the turbo securely.
Why wouldn't you pick fasteners of essentially the same material as the flange to take thermal expansion out of the picture entirely?
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