Exhaust system shopping
 

Next up, exhaust purchase...

I want bang for buck and a deep throaty sound (no buz buz rice burner crap)

FM seems to be great but pricey
or
RB sounds nice but diameter is 2.3
or
custom 2.5 with flowmaster or magnaflow
our
?????

Or what about the conversion to a 1.8 cat to elliminate the 1.6 cat 2" diameter????

what do you suggest

Well, why not get a universal cat that is 2.5 or 3" and then find a muffler that is the in/out diameter you want and have a shop weld it all up for you? That is what I am working on right now actually so this thread is timely.

see enthuza.com for their budget turbo.

+1 on the Enthuza. (and BTW, it's http://www.enthuzacar.com/)

I've got the 2.5" NA Turbo unit, and the sound is absolutely beautiful. Very quiet at idle and cruise, a nice mellow burble on deceleration, and on hard acceleration it lets you know it's there, but it's not overly loud or ricey.

The Aluminized version at $359 is probably the least expensive good-quality turbo exhaust you're going to find.

I also bought a cat from TurboTony that is 2.5" in and out. It was less than $150 if I recall correctly. Choice of cat will vary somewhat with your downpipe, but don't bother trying to convert to a 1.8 style- there are better and cheaper options.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Enthuza and if I were to go with a boxed exhaust, that's what I'd get. If you can though, find an exhaust shop and have one built with a flowmaster or magnaflow for half the price of anything on the net.

it would be wise to pass on the flowmaster....

Brain, why do you suggest against the flowmaster option?

Also, if I went with the Enthuza, just use the stadard 1.6 cat (I have a FM high flow cat) or is it worth the extra $$$ to get the cat from Tony?

Flowmaster is for shitty pickup trucks with crush bent mild steel dual exhaust.

Your Miata deserves a Magnaflow.

My DD ranger has flowmaster with crush bent mild steel dual exhaust. It's badass. lol Really though, it is. Hahahahha

Thats like the muffler shop combo of choice I swear!

Just bought an Enthuza this morning, and Jason is making me a custom test pipe. W00t! Add that to the pile of parts waiting for me..

Borla ProXS is the best muffler, period.

Why is that? I am not disagreeing...just curious.

I'm not sure what size the inlet is on the FM 1.6 cat (it's not 2.5") but here's a shot of the Mangaflow I got from Tony next to a new stock cat:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...0&d=1154013384

And another:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...1&d=1154013387


It's not really worth spending money on a 2.5" catback exhaust if you're going to choke it with a tiny downpipe or catalytic converter.

You know they're just NW of Atlanta right? When you're back you should drive up there and have them install it. Did you get their new 3" duals? They're pure sex.

I have one laying around somewhere. I think it's 2.25 in and 2.50 out.

http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/pr..._40_series.jpg

vs.

http://www.furinox.com/mufflerpics/magnaflow.jpg

which do you think gives you less backpressure?

hell no dont use the stock cat, it's the biggest restriction on the exhaust.

I have an 'xcelerator' brand muffler, 1 in 2 out. It was spec'd for a Camaro, but happens to fit under the stock miata muffler heatshield perfectly. It's scarry amazing how well it fits.

It sounds bad ass. Just a little more mellow than the enthuza budget single, and quiter but similar to the enthuza turbo duals (old style). Not loud, not buzzing, not droning. I get compliments all the time on it, even from other turbo miata owners.

Nah, 3" single. :eek5: It'll be waiting for me in Jacksonville when I go on leave.

What size piping do you run Ben? I think I've decided that matching your HP & TQ numbers is my goal and I'm curious what your setup is.

Ok so no flowmaster....what about magnaflow?

What is the best Down pipe for a Greddy to go with a larger cat and a Ethuza cat-back?

There are really only two options, apart from DIY.

Bell has the sexiest pipe by far, featuring a divorced wastegate tube. $385 for stainless, $285 for mild steel. http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...ata_parts.html

My pipe was made by TurboTony, who hangs around this forum. It does not have a divorced wastegate return, but is somewhat less expensive and was considered the gold standard prior to the Bell unit. turbotony2k@yahoo.com

2.5" Tony to test pipe to 2.75" from test pipe to axle, then either 2 or 2.25" axle back--don't remember. My exhaust is not the model to follow. :gay:
Didn't you get the BEGi pipe? Your DP + exhaust will flow better than mine, so you'll hit peak boost a few hundred rpm sooner. You'll want to have a new WG can waiting for you too.

Yep, got the Begi pipe. I got that AEM EBC and plan on buying a PNP.. will I still need a stronger actuator?

sell the AEM and have the PnP control the boost....

since you have a greddy wastegate it still wouldnt hurt to put a helper spring on it, but you should be able to tune the boost flat.

Yes, get a better actuator, especially if you want to make power similar to mine. Fuck a helper spring. Do it right.

Brainy, if you saw my EBC duty cycle table you'd shit. 98% to redline :eek:

ben what kind of actuator are u running? just curious cuz ima hit the dyno soon and I dont wanna go there with a helper spring on the greddy wastegate

your before/after mbc/ebc dyno runs where phenomenal... I know this hurting me. My LINK ebc chip is dead. Need to fix it.

on topic-
danimal, I had a flowmaster and when I swapped to what I though was more restrictive no-name turbo muffler, turbo spooled 300rpm earlier across the board. Somebody replied that chambered type mufflers kill turbo spool - they're designed for v8 exhaust pulses and the turbo has none. :dunno:

whatever came with the greddy

again, I can't stress my replacement recommendation strong enough.
I need to, but honestly I plan to do a engine swap this winter anyway.

I'd gladly buy another can if I knew what to buy.. as it is though I'm lost on that one.

Speaking without the benefit of actual experiance (still using a helper spring and MBC) I wonder if something like this could be adapted to fit:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=WGT
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=WGT

Biggest problem for me would be that eliminating the need for the MBC would also eliminate my failsafe bypass on the WI system. Still, consistant boost would be nice. Clifford varies between 12 and 15 PSI seemingly at random...

would this work? (guessing you'd have to get their "adjustable rod end" also)

http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...umber=02-70570

I think its really wierd that they are sold separately ... oh well.

Agree. Looks like a bracket would need to be made (the stock Greddy can has integral bracket, doesn't it?) but that's no biggie since I'd have to build one once I clock the compressor anyway.

How "universal" an item is a WG actuator anyway?

pretty damn universal. It's just a matter aligning the rod and bolting the can down.

Yes, the can that comes with the Greddy has a bracket attached, however even in the out-of-the-box configuration, it's slightly ill-fitting and misaligned.
Functionally, they're all similar. Just a metal can with a diaphragm and a spring. Spring stiffness and diaphragm size determine the baseline regulating pressure of the can.

The trick is to find one that is dimensionally compatible with the Greddy TD04H-15G setup in terms of:
1- Being able to fabricate a mounting bracket that will mate to the can
and
2- Ensuring that the rod can easily be made to mate with the WG arm on the turbine housing.

I'm looking to replace my wastegate can too.

They are universal in the sense that you can slap it on if you can screw it to the greddy bracket. They are not universal in the sense that your boost will be affected.

I shopped for one on Ebay awhile back based on appearance alone. Unfortunately, even though it looked identical in the picture, it was bigger and the base boost setting was just too high. I was thinking about picking up the one from Flyin Miata but I would like confirmation that it has the proper boost setting.

True, and I believe that this answer's akaryrye's question as well, insomuch as why they are sold seperately.

Different WG cans will activate at different pressure levels depending upon the design of the spring and diaphragm. The one that comes on the Greddy yields around 5PSI. To increase this, you can either run a boost controller (which prevents the WG can from seeing the true pressure in the manifold) or by simply installing an WG can which is designed to operate at a higher level.

I expect that boost would tend to be more consistant running a higher-pressure WG can, though the oft-alluded-to benefit of delaying the opening of the WG door would be lost. This should in theory cause a slight decrease in the rate at which boost is achieved.

Why, are you assuming that one would run a stiffer WG can without the benefit of a manual or electronic boost controller? I was never assuming that to be the case.

Borla ProXS won a 3rd party competition a while ago for flow:noise ratio by a pretty hefty margin. They sound very mellow and flow like a motherfucker.

Thanks for the answers on the WG guys, very educational.