New manifold time again
08-17-2006, 02:03 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: santabarbara,ca
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New manifold time again
Okay so looks like greddy quality shines thru again. I took my setup apart today to reassemble it with some nice copper lock nuts and new studs. Well much to my suprise*sarcasm* the pos greddy manifold was cracked in almost the same place on top as my last one was and it looks as though it is working its way thru on the bottom part too. Now i must be doing something wrong for it to crack within two months of its purchase. I made the relief cuts which i thought would be sufficent but no it still cracked. I think I'm going to give greddy a call and bitch at em and also file a complaint with the bbb. So instead of ordering another modern enginering accomplishment greddy manifold 
where should i go, i was thinking etd possibly. any suggestions?
where should i go, i was thinking etd possibly. any suggestions?
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08-18-2006, 01:33 PM
#7
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I shimmed my exhaust hangers with rubber grommets- or you can use 5/16 hose and cut lengths off to fill up the spaces after the rubbermounts. This will keep your exhaust from moving side to side during hard cornering. Seems to have worked so far as I've had no cracks in my Greddy mani for 3 years.
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08-18-2006, 06:17 PM
#8
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hmmm i do alot of hard cornering w/ my miata and usually w/ a lead foot so maybe i should reinforce the exhaust system, oh well i have time before etd gets the new manifolds next week and then waiting for them to ship from canada. I am however getting a good workout every day from biking :-)
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08-18-2006, 07:15 PM
#10
Originally Posted by firedog25
I'm hoping my flex jointed downpipe helps with that issue.
Hoping...
Hoping...
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08-19-2006, 03:23 PM
#13
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The original poster hints about what I have been hinting at now for a while. Does not seem to be much of a reason to make all those manifold cuts to prevent cracking. Does seem logical though. Just no proof after reading all posts on the subject starting with the Big List. They seem to crack with or without the runner cuts. There are many comments about making the cuts because it is something they heard somewhere and only echoing what they heard and not from concrete experience.
After reading some posts and my experience am leaning toward not properly matching the mating surfaces. Not excluding a design or material problem, but need to work with what came in the kit. Can see the pieces that did not mate properly on my pages under Greddy install. That is now 6 years on mine without a crack. If the surfaces to not mate properly that seems to equate to a lot of broken bolts and cracks each time the motor shakes and flexes.
Aside from matching the mating surfaces, seems a ceramic or Jet Coat would help. My kiln is too small to fit the manifold, but there is a used one in this area for $150. Thought about getting it since has a 22" depth. Problem is it weighs about 250 lbs and would require running 220V to my workshop.
For the problem stated, I am cheap so would probably just weld it. Good weld should last at least a year or so and if/when it breaks just weld it again. Notice the other aftermarket manifolds that do not have all those cuts and some do not have any runner cuts.
After reading some posts and my experience am leaning toward not properly matching the mating surfaces. Not excluding a design or material problem, but need to work with what came in the kit. Can see the pieces that did not mate properly on my pages under Greddy install. That is now 6 years on mine without a crack. If the surfaces to not mate properly that seems to equate to a lot of broken bolts and cracks each time the motor shakes and flexes.
Aside from matching the mating surfaces, seems a ceramic or Jet Coat would help. My kiln is too small to fit the manifold, but there is a used one in this area for $150. Thought about getting it since has a 22" depth. Problem is it weighs about 250 lbs and would require running 220V to my workshop.
For the problem stated, I am cheap so would probably just weld it. Good weld should last at least a year or so and if/when it breaks just weld it again. Notice the other aftermarket manifolds that do not have all those cuts and some do not have any runner cuts.
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08-19-2006, 03:37 PM
#14
how thick are the cuts you guys make. The cuts on my manifold were done at RacingMazda when I was up there getting the prototype DP made (no flex). The cuts were almost as wide as the bolt holes. Never cracked. It was in good shape when I sold the turbo last november.
My friend used hand tools to make the cuts on his manifold. The were very narrow and his cracked last year. HE had a Flexpipe on his DP
My friend used hand tools to make the cuts on his manifold. The were very narrow and his cracked last year. HE had a Flexpipe on his DP
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08-21-2006, 03:15 PM
#17
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Do have one that works but requires curing at 750 F for 4 hours. That is beyond the the capabilities of your typical household oven. The manifold is too big to fit in my little 110 V kiln or would have done it several years ago.
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08-21-2006, 04:36 PM
#18
Would be interesting to see how well it works and how long it lasts. Have not have any luck with those self curing or cure from engine heat products.
Do have one that works but requires curing at 750 F for 4 hours. That is beyond the the capabilities of your typical household oven. The manifold is too big to fit in my little 110 V kiln or would have done it several years ago.
Do have one that works but requires curing at 750 F for 4 hours. That is beyond the the capabilities of your typical household oven. The manifold is too big to fit in my little 110 V kiln or would have done it several years ago.
Pop - What are you using for DIY ceramic coating?
I have access to a large kiln, and the DIY kinda guy....
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