FM Hydra 3071R on the way
 

Hustler, I just bought out the FM catalog! LOL

3071
Hydra
750 injectors
Ceramic coated manifold and housing
Steel lines
19" intercooler
3" stainless exhaust
Race radiator

This is going on a stock 2002. Going to try to keep the boost under 12 until the end of the summer. (Going to Afganistan and 2.0 when I get back) One thing that sucks though is that the intercooler is back ordered due to a union strike. 2 to 4 weeks.

This thread isn't going to go well.

why, because the first word is "hustler"?

12psi on a 3071 is quite a bit. It is quite a bit more than 16psi on a 2554. You do know this, right?

how much does it cost to buy out the FM catalog?

More than you can afford pal.
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Well, I'm glad I got my 19" intercooler when I did (last week). I'd be pissed about a backorder now. lol

...Ferrari.

Your probably right :laugh:

Snowboarder, I dont have a shipping quote but I am right at 7 now.

Sixshooter, Yes I have some worries about the bottom end.

3071 Should get you into the 20's easy once you've strengthened the internals.

in for $14k motor. Enjoy tuning that over the phone, and post pics of the exploded parts.

Smoke him!!!!:skid:

If he's shopping from the catalog, then I'm sure he can afford to drop the car off and have it installed and tuned. btw- one of the shops around here says they will tune the car for $600. That's a complete tune- everything, every zone, every feature for daily driving, any temperature and boost. That's really not a bad deal for those who have more money than time, or guys in the service. They've got a few guys who did just that- when they come back their car will be complete and ready to drive.

You little pee-wees need to man up and drop your balls.

it's just a 2871 with a larger turbine.

LSx conversion would be where i'd be wasting that kind of money. otherwise probably a used c6

Or a C5 Z06.
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haven't we been here already with this guy?

Where is that shop and what is the name? The more the tuning subject comes up the more I wonder if I will need it.

Here is the reasoning. I will be making right at the limit of the stock internals. The Hydra will come with a very conservative tune. The tune (I'm guessing) will be very rich and not much timing. This will pull power and reduce the chance of detonation. I am thinking this is very good for my situation. If I go pay for someone to tune it what would I really get. I don't want more power at this point and I need something safe on the engine.

$17k or so on a motor and turbo kit but you won't pay $500 to get your fucking car tuned because you don't have a clue what's going on. There's nothing wrong with check-booking the build, but don't cheap out on the most important part.

Congratulations on your purchases. I actually thought you were just another big dreamer when you started posting here. :bigtu:

As for the tuning, I can understand just going with the base map that you will get from FM while running the stock engine. As long as you tell them your situation Jeremy will provide you with a good starting point and you will only need to tune fuel. As long as you are able to keep the boost levels under control and not push it you will be fine. I was in the same situation with my car awhile back and ran a tune I got from FM for quite a while without any problems on my car.

When you do get the built motor, please be smart enough to have it tuned by someone that knows what they are doing.

Jay, Hustler, point taken about the tuning. My reluctance for getting somone to do it for me stems from my experience with anyone ever working on my cars for what ever the reason. I get the car back and find that it has been half assed together, I'm pissed that I even let them touch it. (My job in the Army is to look for fucked up work on helicopters, point it out and make them fix it) Over the years I have only had my car serviced by a "professional" a few times, I do all my own work unless I am deployed. So when the subject comes up my first reaction is to do it myself.

If I found someone that is well known for his abilities and I can see a few cars that has been done then I don't have a problem paying for a tune.

Greg,
Scott Siegel at Topspeed in Alpharetta is a well respected Hydra tuner. He's popular with the Suby crowd. Call them up and get a quote. A Hydra is a Hydra. Should be easier on a Miata truthfully. I'm sure he's tuned quite a few Suby 3071s.

Frank

Not sure if they tune Hydra, but Stage6 in Jacksonville has turned out some seriously mean cars and they aren't too far from Savannah. Welcome to Stage 6 Motorsports - Automotive Performance

Sounds like the car is going to be sick.

:confused: Umm.. No. That is a false statement.

16psi is 16psi. 12psi is 12psi.

I agree that you should be ultra-carefull on selecting a tuner. I think you should ask them how they're going to tune it, and to define what they call safe. I couldn't really find anyone I liked to do my car, so I did everything I could to educate myself and I took the leap of faith.

Not tuning the car is foolish. First you'll enjoy the power, then you'll appreciate the drivability more than the rubber laying qualities.

I live out of a suitcase and although I don't have too many bullets coming at me with my job, I know what its like to do this stuff when you have very little time. I'd fly home, kiss the wife and kids, then drive the car to Colorado and have it tuned by FM.

Why not do this in September, then drive back and do "miatas at hallett?" You should have the best equipped car there, and I'd love to rape it for you. You'd have a ton of fun out there and if you've never been on the track, I'll try to help you not kill yourself.

oh yeah, nothing like the confounding variable game. I'm all booked up this morning with e-thugging, but if I have time later I'll jack with your bullshit.

http://mashable.com/wp-content/uploa...9/03/o_rly.jpg

You fail at understanding turbo efficiency and the ideal gas law.

No worries, I got this one. You can take the afternoon shift.

I knew I should have written a lot more for that post and shouldn't have been so brief. I apologize for that. The way I left it was certainly not 100% right and I will agree with you on that.

Let me preface this by saying I have NOT looked at the maps for these turbos.

That being said, the more efficient a turbo is in a given pressure area, the less heat it makes right? i.e. compare two turbos at the same pressure ratio, the more efficient one will produce less heat.

So, the bigger turbo, which is producing less boost, should be making less heat than the smaller turbo making more boost. This is totally based upon a blind assumption that the bigger turbo will be about the same efficiency in that pressure ratio as the smaller one.

hakuna matatta.

This should be fun. :facepalm:
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:laugh:

Bah, nevermind. I'll just keep my mouth shut. You guys are used to dealing with 12-16psi, which I'm just learning. I've been used to 25-40psi with DSMs.

I just picked up a 99 miata which I'm planning on putting an FM Hydra kit onto, but that's where it'll end.

Well, you have a point because you could have identical pressure ratio efficiency points if the target pressure ratio is remarkably inneficient. So yeah, I suppose I could have the same efficiency at extremely high pressure on a 2554 and extremely low pressure on a gt40r or something.

I think that's what I was kinda getting at, however, I did a horrible job at conveying that message.

well, maybe when you learn how to "convey messages" you can "see a naked chick" for the first time in your life, virgin.

Ahh, I love the maturity level. Should we start with the mother jokes now?

:drama:
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Ya mama is so big and fat that she can get busy
with twenty-two burritos, but times are rough
I seen her in the back of Taco Bell with handcuffs

40 psi at half the mass flow rate even at 75% efficiency is still half the mass flow rate.

probably a reason he upgraded his t25 before going 25-40psi :P

I started with a 14b thank you very much. :fawk:

Do you think I am going to have problems with the base map? As delivered I am going to make enough power to spread my rods all over the street if I'm not careful. If I'm not tuning for more power what would I be tuning for? I guess if it is running overly rich then I could pull some fuel and if the timing is to flat then add a little I guess but wouldn't I pick up more power?

Thanks for the info at Hallett. Sounds like fun but our training schedule is insane right now. I can't tell if I'll get some leave around that time.

"base map" does not mean "daily driver map" for sure.

it's good enough to get you started and drive the car if you need to but it's not something you'd want to blindly drive around on.

in a nutshell, how do you know you'll be too rich or too lean or too advanced or too retarded without tuning something? it's very unlikely you're going to be "close enough" right out of the box. I'd bet a buck on that.

Well.. you do know you're going to be retarded on a basemap. Ha... Ha... Ha...

you probably won't "have problems" but you won't know how good it could be so you won't realize why its worth the cash until its paid for and done. Take the car to FM for tuning, I'm not recommending this shit for my health.

Oh WOW! You fucking know this guy is a noob and doesn't know who Hustler is.. :laugh::laugh::laugh: Just wow. Thats like being in a prison shower and seeing a big angry looking dude with a huge boner eye balling you, and you ask him "What, your gonna fuck me in the ass now!?"

Should we go ahead and start a list of who wants what when the piston rods escape the confines of the crankcase? I'm not sure what I want, I will get back to you.

People without a turbo on their car should not be talking so much shit methinks.

:drama::pitlab:

Me thinks you should kiss my ass :loser: When was I talking shit? Just because I don't yet have a turbo on my Miata doesn't means I cant have a valid opinion. 12psi on a 3071 on a stock bottom end, with a base map and a no need to tune attitude isn't a good mix of things in my book. It may hold up for a while, but its still not something I would consider doing, especially with the rate people have been losing engines with smaller turbos and lower boost, and actual "good" tunes.
:2cents:

oh I never said I didn't agree with you... ;)

Ah, ok then. Well if you people want to start a paypal fund to help me get boosted, you are all more than welcome to do so. Then I can talk all the shit I want, right? $20 a head, anybody? Help a poor fella out. In return I can grant you all the knowledge of all of the worlds books, and great blessings of my native American people... :gtfo:

This is miataturbo.net, not sweden.

Me thinks this guy should be more concerned about whether the equipment he's buying will allow him to run a steady 12#. I'd much more concerned with being able to control boost with the FM setup than I am about the tune.

The base maps from FM are much better than people on this forum think they are. Jeremy has tuned enough cars for FM customers with different setups to have a very good starting point. Having ran a stock map from FM and then having it tuned, the maps weren't much different. The base map was what my tuner called a conservative tune and would be fine to drive with for the life of the car. It's not like we're talking MS, where a bunch of amateurs tuned their shit on the street, then posted the maps on the internet and he's just choosing one.

As for the 12# on the stock bottom end, I did it on a bigger turbo. My engine survived, but common sense says it was a ticking time bomb. The OP needs to accept that.

Yes it is a concern, Jeremy warned me about the 3'' when I asked about boost creep. He said it would be wiser to keep the factory exhaust but I couldn't resist. "my precious" The wastegate spring will be a 9psi. I am just hoping that it dosen't creep past 12 before I get to redline. A coulple of ideas that came up on another post was to limit RPM some and/or to build a restrictor plate for the exhaust. These ideas are to limit total power and rpm to aid the rods and to limit pressure differential that can exaggerate boost creep. These are possible solutions to problems that I do not have but I have considered.

You have a set up very much like the one I purchased. How did yours act?

My old setup had a few big differences. I feel those differences are part of the reason why I didn't have any of your concerns. For starters, I use an external wastegate to try and avoid the boost creep issues that you will have. I also ran a full 3" with a cat to ensure that the easiest path for the exhaust to leave the car, was through the external wastegate that I just dumped when it was open. Lastly, I have a good friend who has a shop that does tuning and fabrication. Unlimited dyno time and an experienced person to run my stupid ideas across is priceless, especially since I trust him and follow his advice.

I ran the car on the street at 6-7# for awhile, even ran a 13.3 at the drag strip. Ran it at 13# for awhile and even 18# for a bit. Just remember that the car will feel slow and you will want more. I originally only had plans to run it at the 6-7# level and be happy with it. The car was slow. That led to more and more. Eventually I just said the hell with it and kept bumping it up. When it was at 18# it started to really feel quick. I consider a stock miata engine a cheap disposable part. If you do the same you're going to have some fun with this. Remember, if you blow the engine you don't have to go through the hassle of trying to selling the damn thing when you pull it.

Lethal Injection in Atlanta Ga. Oh and they are currently helping/working with hydra make a ECU for a newer S2K with the throttle by wire setup.

I hope to keep this one in good shape. Depending on if I buy or build I will use it as a core or as the foundation.

Anyone know the waste gate port size on the 3071? Surely there is room to port it a bit, and weld on a larger puck, which would reduce likelihood of creep.