Drop subframe to install BEGI DP?
#1
Drop subframe to install BEGI DP?
After some searching I've come to the conclusion that I'm not the only one having some problems with the BEGI S internal gate turbo downpipe.
The issue is that the DP doesn't fit into the body when assembled, it comes in two pieces and you slide them together from under the car and from the engine bay, a rod pulls the two together in a slip joint, but it commonly breaks and causes grief. Many people just weld it together or switch to a V band setup. I'm personally happy with welding, however the flanges on my DP dont allow any room to slide the pipe in from the top OR bottom unless its in two pieces.
I was thinking about dropping the subframe a few inches to allow room, is this a viable option? My reading points to yes, but I haven't found any posts from people who may have done it.
I've done this exact same thing for the downpipes in my audi A6, the whole engine and subframe had to move, Experience says it will work, but I've never done this on a miata.
The issue is that the DP doesn't fit into the body when assembled, it comes in two pieces and you slide them together from under the car and from the engine bay, a rod pulls the two together in a slip joint, but it commonly breaks and causes grief. Many people just weld it together or switch to a V band setup. I'm personally happy with welding, however the flanges on my DP dont allow any room to slide the pipe in from the top OR bottom unless its in two pieces.
I was thinking about dropping the subframe a few inches to allow room, is this a viable option? My reading points to yes, but I haven't found any posts from people who may have done it.
I've done this exact same thing for the downpipes in my audi A6, the whole engine and subframe had to move, Experience says it will work, but I've never done this on a miata.
#2
Maybe disconnect the PPF and rock the engine forward on its mounts? Doesn't look like you need much.
Also, I think the reported problems on the slip joint are overblown. I've got the BEGI Greddy replacement on my car. It has a slip joint too. No problems, although I did secure the downpipe to the OEM transmission exhaust brace using one of those stainless steel band clamps you see in the parts stores.
Also, I think the reported problems on the slip joint are overblown. I've got the BEGI Greddy replacement on my car. It has a slip joint too. No problems, although I did secure the downpipe to the OEM transmission exhaust brace using one of those stainless steel band clamps you see in the parts stores.
#3
Maybe disconnect the PPF and rock the engine forward on its mounts? Doesn't look like you need much.
Also, I think the reported problems on the slip joint are overblown. I've got the BEGI Greddy replacement on my car. It has a slip joint too. No problems, although I did secure the downpipe to the OEM transmission exhaust brace using one of those stainless steel band clamps you see in the parts stores.
Also, I think the reported problems on the slip joint are overblown. I've got the BEGI Greddy replacement on my car. It has a slip joint too. No problems, although I did secure the downpipe to the OEM transmission exhaust brace using one of those stainless steel band clamps you see in the parts stores.
#8
I have Begi Separated gasses down pipe 3" that is welded together. I put mine in before the manifold as well.
Edit: I also cut into the edge of the lip and folded over the lip to give myself an extra 3/4" to 1" of space to work with. I was also having boost creep because the wastegate couldn't open all the way. I added another t25 flange to the downpipe to give the flapper enough room to open all the way. If i was at home I'd take a picture of what i did but it turned out clean and gave me some nice space.
Edit: I also cut into the edge of the lip and folded over the lip to give myself an extra 3/4" to 1" of space to work with. I was also having boost creep because the wastegate couldn't open all the way. I added another t25 flange to the downpipe to give the flapper enough room to open all the way. If i was at home I'd take a picture of what i did but it turned out clean and gave me some nice space.
Last edited by krissetsfire; 08-27-2014 at 01:32 PM.
#10
Boost Czar
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you know you can rotate the DP into any position you deserve to make it fit down the tranny tunnel...the flange doesn't HAVE to point in the correct direction to get it down the hole...
I also dont see why so many people have issues with their slip joints. I ran mine without a bolt/welds/glue/gum.
I also dont see why so many people have issues with their slip joints. I ran mine without a bolt/welds/glue/gum.
#12
you know you can rotate the DP into any position you deserve to make it fit down the tranny tunnel...the flange doesn't HAVE to point in the correct direction to get it down the hole...
I also dont see why so many people have issues with their slip joints. I ran mine without a bolt/welds/glue/gum.
I also dont see why so many people have issues with their slip joints. I ran mine without a bolt/welds/glue/gum.
The issue is clearance with the block and frame, I've tried rotating it a number of ways and it comes VERRRRY close to making it through but something is always just a few millimeters in the way.
I'll give rocking the engine a little a try. Miata is up as high as I feel safe putting it so I'll also try worming it in from the bottom.
#16
Yeesh, reminds me of my VW TDI. Have to remove the right axle and/or the lower subframe if you are unlucky to get at the downpipe/turbo. Not to mention they are all TTY bolts so you have to replace them after removal.
After taking apart 2 Miata and fully reassembling mine, nothing really scares me or is difficult now. Just don't want to have to remove the CAS/rear thermostat/rear coolant reroute. Hear that is a bitch.
After taking apart 2 Miata and fully reassembling mine, nothing really scares me or is difficult now. Just don't want to have to remove the CAS/rear thermostat/rear coolant reroute. Hear that is a bitch.
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