Greddy Installed in Hong Kong, summary and Help!!
11-15-2006, 07:43 AM
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Greddy Installed in Hong Kong, summary and Help!!
HI Folks,
This forum has surely given lots of help with this install, I wish I had one of your number so I could call you guys up for help today. 12 hours different tho.
92 Vspec BRG w/ 57,000km
Differences with this kit:
- JDM Greddy 15G turbo kit $9300 HKD $1192 USD.
- I was very surprise it didn't come with an AFPR, but instead I got an electronic module that takes signals of TEMP/AFM, slice in ECU fuel signal. What is PRO/CON??? Surely It was less work without touching fuel system.
- Wastagate arm comes with extra nuts holding diaphragm arms secure.
Troubles:
- The exhaust side was a piece of cake, no shear nuts and bolts. Cut the relieves, Grind down water hanger, bolt on exhaust manifold first, than install down pipe, last was the turbo.
- Í can't believe how little space to work with the Oil Feed line which is "T" from the Factory pressure sensor. I am not sure if I have done it right, coz the line was pointing downward, and has a sharp bent that feed though the intake manifold, only millimeter slack. Please advice!!!! Good or Bad!
Oil Pan:
- I have no idea how you guys could drill that hole in that space without take the oil pan down. HOW DO U DO IT? what Tools needed? Please advice...
I have gotten all hardware installed today, and will be back to the car tomorrow for wiring and gauges.
PS: Link to the photos today.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2099424344
This forum has surely given lots of help with this install, I wish I had one of your number so I could call you guys up for help today. 12 hours different tho.
92 Vspec BRG w/ 57,000km
Differences with this kit:
- JDM Greddy 15G turbo kit $9300 HKD $1192 USD.
- I was very surprise it didn't come with an AFPR, but instead I got an electronic module that takes signals of TEMP/AFM, slice in ECU fuel signal. What is PRO/CON??? Surely It was less work without touching fuel system.
- Wastagate arm comes with extra nuts holding diaphragm arms secure.
Troubles:
- The exhaust side was a piece of cake, no shear nuts and bolts. Cut the relieves, Grind down water hanger, bolt on exhaust manifold first, than install down pipe, last was the turbo.
- Í can't believe how little space to work with the Oil Feed line which is "T" from the Factory pressure sensor. I am not sure if I have done it right, coz the line was pointing downward, and has a sharp bent that feed though the intake manifold, only millimeter slack. Please advice!!!! Good or Bad!
Oil Pan:
- I have no idea how you guys could drill that hole in that space without take the oil pan down. HOW DO U DO IT? what Tools needed? Please advice...
I have gotten all hardware installed today, and will be back to the car tomorrow for wiring and gauges.
PS: Link to the photos today.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2099424344
Last edited by Mimime; 08-31-2007 at 03:50 PM.
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11-15-2006, 10:17 AM
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That T off of the oil pressure sender does not llok like it is going to drain well at all. I would not even try it like that. Need to figure out some other way. I haven't drilled my pan either, but that thing has a sharp incline that the oil will not drain from at all. Other than that, nice job so far, and it is a whole lot of fun boosting, good luck.
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11-15-2006, 10:33 AM
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Thank Boostinsteve,
Regarding the T off from the Pressure sensor, its a factory set up of the Greddy kit for the Oil feed to the turbo. What other altnerative anyone could recommend?
Regarding the T off from the Pressure sensor, its a factory set up of the Greddy kit for the Oil feed to the turbo. What other altnerative anyone could recommend?
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11-15-2006, 10:44 AM
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BoostinSteve, you're confusing the feed with the drain.
As long as it's not leaking and you have enough length then it's fine. Only other thing I can suggest it tighten it more to point in a more desirable postion, however you don't want the threads to snap on you.
Electronic Injector controller will probably work just as good if not better for low boost.
plently of write-ups on tapping the oil pan, click my FAQ, I have a pic of mine there.
As long as it's not leaking and you have enough length then it's fine. Only other thing I can suggest it tighten it more to point in a more desirable postion, however you don't want the threads to snap on you.
Electronic Injector controller will probably work just as good if not better for low boost.
plently of write-ups on tapping the oil pan, click my FAQ, I have a pic of mine there.
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11-15-2006, 11:31 AM
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Thanks Braineack!! Btw, is it what that Little Module is called? "Electroic Injector ontroller?, would you know if there is any conflict installed with Olderguy O2 clamp or EMB, apparently, both I have purchase but not yet installed.
Furthermore, anyone recommend thermo warpping the exhaust manifold or downpipe? For what I undestand, its not good to wrap this cast iron material, its only for SS headers etc. Please correct me if i am wrong!
Furthermore, anyone recommend thermo warpping the exhaust manifold or downpipe? For what I undestand, its not good to wrap this cast iron material, its only for SS headers etc. Please correct me if i am wrong!
Last edited by Mimime; 11-15-2006 at 11:42 AM.
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11-15-2006, 12:21 PM
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BoostinSteve, you're confusing the feed with the drain.
As long as it's not leaking and you have enough length then it's fine. Only other thing I can suggest it tighten it more to point in a more desirable postion, however you don't want the threads to snap on you.
Electronic Injector controller will probably work just as good if not better for low boost.
plently of write-ups on tapping the oil pan, click my FAQ, I have a pic of mine there.
As long as it's not leaking and you have enough length then it's fine. Only other thing I can suggest it tighten it more to point in a more desirable postion, however you don't want the threads to snap on you.
Electronic Injector controller will probably work just as good if not better for low boost.
plently of write-ups on tapping the oil pan, click my FAQ, I have a pic of mine there.
On USDM cars the feed line is on the same side as the turbo. Look at your engine block on the turbo side by the firewall. There is a plugged port there where you are supposed to tap into.
If that's supposed to be the oil return line, it's way too thin. The US oil return line returns near there. Where does it return on the JDM kit?
Edit: THERE IS NO WAY THAT LINE IS SUPPOSED TO RUN THAT WAY. It's running over the valve cover?
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11-15-2006, 12:26 PM
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wait wait wait, that can't be right. that pic by the oil filter housing, that's the oil FEED line right?
On USDM cars the feed line is on the same side as the turbo.
If that's supposed to be the oil return line, it's way too thin. The US oil return line returns near there. Where does it return on the JDM kit?
Edit: THERE IS NO WAY THAT LINE IS SUPPOSED TO RUN THAT WAY. It's running over the valve cover?
On USDM cars the feed line is on the same side as the turbo.
If that's supposed to be the oil return line, it's way too thin. The US oil return line returns near there. Where does it return on the JDM kit?
Edit: THERE IS NO WAY THAT LINE IS SUPPOSED TO RUN THAT WAY. It's running over the valve cover?
1) Near Dipstick, you were saying the USDM feedline goes.
2) Factory oil sender T fitting, that's what my kit came with.
3) Adaptor pan between oil filter.
The Oil Return line on my kit is the same stupid Nipple next to the filter.
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11-15-2006, 09:15 PM
#15
Feed line should be fine as it is sending pressurized oil. I would however wrap parts of it with rubber hose as it will cut or wear away at anything it will rub against over time, like your valve cover.
Lots of people have been fine with the stock around the engine oil return. While I agree that tapping the pan is optimal, you can run in stock form until you read up on what you need and how to go about it. Both Braineack's FAQ and PopVII's pages have good info on how to go about this so no need to reinvent the wheel here.
The electronic module should work fine, but will need to be changed if you decide to up the boost b/c IIRC there was only so much additional injection it could add by modifying the signals. Emanage blue does the same thing by modifying the airflow/temp signals, but via a 16x16 map and not a fixed setting via a black box. Should be fine for 5-6psi, but would probably change fueling management above that level of boost.
Lots of people have been fine with the stock around the engine oil return. While I agree that tapping the pan is optimal, you can run in stock form until you read up on what you need and how to go about it. Both Braineack's FAQ and PopVII's pages have good info on how to go about this so no need to reinvent the wheel here.
The electronic module should work fine, but will need to be changed if you decide to up the boost b/c IIRC there was only so much additional injection it could add by modifying the signals. Emanage blue does the same thing by modifying the airflow/temp signals, but via a 16x16 map and not a fixed setting via a black box. Should be fine for 5-6psi, but would probably change fueling management above that level of boost.
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11-16-2006, 11:00 AM
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Test Run Done!
HI Folks,
Started the engine and done a few run.
1) After timing was retarded to 6, the low end of done.
2) The T from the Oil Sender line was leaking some oil. Nothing serious, little drips. Need to go back at it again tomorrow.
3) Under the Bonnet, its was total BBQ heat.
4) running accurately at 3.5 PSI boost on stock set up, do I have the "3 PSI" problem? Three dosen't seem to be any leak on the hardware install. From looking at the photo, could any tell me what I did wrong? I used the intake manifold vaccum for the Boost gauge. That's all i did with the vaccum host and nothing more!!! ???
5) Factory intake pipe, looks like a Harmonica spring in and out once power was on. :gay:
6) Power didn't seem to be all I would expect... Hmmmm... !
I was really reluctant to drive it right out and really test it, what was the feel of your intial install of the greddy kit?
Any comment?
Started the engine and done a few run.
1) After timing was retarded to 6, the low end of done.
2) The T from the Oil Sender line was leaking some oil. Nothing serious, little drips. Need to go back at it again tomorrow.
3) Under the Bonnet, its was total BBQ heat.
4) running accurately at 3.5 PSI boost on stock set up, do I have the "3 PSI" problem? Three dosen't seem to be any leak on the hardware install. From looking at the photo, could any tell me what I did wrong? I used the intake manifold vaccum for the Boost gauge. That's all i did with the vaccum host and nothing more!!! ???
5) Factory intake pipe, looks like a Harmonica spring in and out once power was on. :gay:
6) Power didn't seem to be all I would expect... Hmmmm... !
I was really reluctant to drive it right out and really test it, what was the feel of your intial install of the greddy kit?
Any comment?
Last edited by Mimime; 08-31-2007 at 03:50 PM.
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