front crank seal replacement q's
 

my front seal is going out and leaking oil everywhere. i wanna replace it before next saturday's track event. is it possible to do with the head and valve cover on ?

i plan on installing my 55mm koyo at the same time. so i will be having the radiator out while trying to do the front main.

Scott

No, you will need to pull the timing belt, etc.

you have to pull the valve cover and basically do a full timing belt job in order to do the seal. You have to remove the timing belt cog connected to the crankshaft so if you are gonna do that seal, you might as well do everything. I just did mine and at the same time did the tbelt, waterpump, camshaft seals, and all pulleys and belts.

Oh and use a seal puller to get the seals out, makes a world of difference.

Regards

bah, i was hoping i could do a wham bam job with just the front crank seal... not looking like it eh ?

nope still it doesn't take to long

Here is a few tips.
Buy two crank seals. that way if you fuck up putting on the first one, (I did.) you don't need to wait to get another one.

Don't gouge the shit out of the block while trying to take the old seal out. The new one will leak if you gouge the metal all up getting it out. So use a dentists pick or a seal remover or something instead of a screwdriver.

Change the CAM seals too. I am sure they are going to start leaking soon too. Plus they are pretty easy to replace. Also check the CAS seal on the back of the head and see if that is leaking too. Replace that one too if it is.

Change the timing belt and water pump if its needed. (100k miles) Might as well since you are taking everything apart anyways.

Have a buddy handy when putting the TB back on. It's a pain in the ass with one person.

Don't buy any of the parts from your local dealership if you can avoid it. They rip you the fuck off.
Hope this helps :bigtu:

I've done a few of these now and can change a front seal / timing belt in about 4 hours by my self. Have someone there who has done one before if at all possible. If not, there are some good instructions in M net’s garage (download them anyway). Don’t skip any steps, especially the one where you have to turn the crank a couple of turns before releasing the tensioner. Have at least 2 seals handy, 3 is better. I buy these from the local dealer so I can return any un-used ones. Check the crank for scratches and lube the shit out of the seal with oil before installing. Make sure the crank hasn’t pushed the seal lip out or it will leak like a sieve. I made an install tool out of a PVC coupler and a large washer that seems to work well. Flyin’ Miata will sell you one for big $$$ but mine seems to work well. Take your time and good luck.