greddy advice
 

hello everyone,
i own 90 miata, and its fun driving. Lately ive been working on it making it better lil by lil and thinkin lastly is adding a boost kit. Lately i have slotted rotors, was heading into drilled but i was hearing that they crack and its mostly for show. Then i went with tein basic's suspension kit, and for now just looking for a clutch because my old one is going bad. Then i came around the greddy kit and its very cheap 1100, and im just looking for 130 - 140 rwhp no more not really crazy bout it but dang im aching for power. Thinking just keeping at roughly 5-7 psi.

Im asking if the greddy is reliable and great at this boost lvl?

Also how hard is it to install, and tunning required for the bolt on kit? Is it plug and play. I just have experienced changing my own clutch, water pump and replacing alt. ac, and t-belt.
thanks in advance

You'll have no problems and we can guide you all of the way and set you up with detailed instructions.
You will enjoy the performance increase..
Here's some simple install instructions.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=852
There is more to know about little things you will want to do before the install and during the install.
Just pipe up and we'll shoot you the links...

You should be able to install it yourself with no problems.
For clutches you should look at the ACT HD with a street disc as that will hold all the power you'll be making.
Trust me on this, once you've run at 5 psi you will want to run more and more. Boost, you see, is an addicting thing.:firedevil

Check out the Begi S kit. It's much more value for the money as the core components and engineering put into are much better.

[QUOTE=Bryceness;182772]You should be able to install it yourself with no problems.
For clutches you should look at the ACT HD with a street disc as that will hold all the power you'll be making.
Trust me on this, once you've run at 5 psi you will want to run more and more. Boost, you see, is an addicting thing.:firedevil

+1

Depending upon where you are located, there are likely some local guys who'd be willing to help you out for free or some food.

Will work for steak (even cheap steak. mmm flat iron) :)

can 91 octane, be good to run a turbo kit?
Basically in vegas thats the highest we got.

Yup...thats what we have in CA also

when turbo kit installed, i was reading in threads that it adds up on maintenance costs what do they mean by that?
Like are they talking about replacing the motor or internals?
So the greddy is great but pushing past 9 psi is where a lot of owner's begin to have the boost leak or creep, from a greddy kit?
My main reason i wanna stay with the greddy kit is that, i got accepted into the RN nursing program and as a gift from the family, they decided to get me the greddy kit.

by maintenence they probably mean that you should run synthetic oil (more $) and change it religiously at 3k miles. Internals are generally not needed on cars running a Greddy as you likely won't go past 15 psi. At 14 psi one member here, Ben, made 255 RWHP! (I'm coming for you.)

bost leak and creep are two distinct issues which aren't really isolated to the Greddy.

Congrats on the RN thing! I couldn't do that. I mean I like helping people and all, but the last nurse I saw had to give me a catheter... it sucked for both of us.

That was until I found a little boost leak. When I corrected it, it brought me to 17 psi from 4500 to redline :cool:
Didn't redyno it though.

!!

Are you still running it like that?

For a week or two I did. Turned the EBC down after that. Mechanical empathy, and it wasn't tuned for those ranges, and sometimes it would hit the overboost shut off. But it did make good power up there.

relative empathy, I'm sure.

thanks was hard getting into it, from staying up late for my studies, f-t classes and work.
I was reading up on more reviews on the greddy kit that the manifolds crack, but wondering is it due to goin above 6 psi or just the manifold is weak?
Also i know replacing all the nuts and bolts but what kind of grade?
Then was reading something bout the elbow in the kit that it such a tight fit, and it breaks does anybody know what im talking about?

the cracking, and this is a pure guess, is due to poor design and thermal stress. Replace with grade 8 (SAE) or 10.9 (metric), see archives for more on the bolts.

The elbow is, I assume, the intake elbow they're talking about. Haven't heard about it breaking but it's small and awkward, prolly because the kit was designed for RHD. I made a replacement out of a 2.5" U bend and it works a bit better.

I've had mine on for three to four years now and have no cracking. I probably did a real good job when I cut the manifold to relieve the stress. Plus, all of my bolts and studs were upgraded before I installed the system. Haven't had a lick of problems with my GReddy........(Knock on Bruces head!)

I've also heard at some point greddy changed the alloy they were casting with. Don't know if that's true or not, but you don't hear about cracked manifolds ever.

ive been following this thread closely , i love the info on this site,,

as for the detailed instructions that were talked about before,
ive searched the forum for them and cant seem to find anything other than
the original greddy instructions.

has anyone documented an install, with details, and

LOTS AND LOTS OF PICTURES!!!!!

for people like me who suck at reading instructions lol

if not, maybe i should do it,

i just bought "sol generals" kit

Honestly, I just looked at the online instructions for bolt size references. Do what people have said already, UPGRADE the bolts, ALL of them. The four greddy-supplied bolts holding the turbo to the manifold ALL broke on me. Luckily, a local shopped fucked up the manifold when drilling them out so they bought me a new ETD manifold :)

But anyways, if can figure out that a square peg doesn't fit into a round hole, then you can install the greddy turbo. It's all very basic remove-and-replace type of work. I was nervous as hell also since the hardest thing I've done to that point was a timing belt change, but after taking my time and figuring out what goes where (and it can't go anywhere else), then it was easy as pie. I would say the hardest, or more important part, is making sure your fuel and spark components are upgraded and up to order.

I wouldn't suggest you buy a new greddy kit though. If you can source out different USED Greddy parts for under $600-$700 total, then it might be worth it as a My-First-Fisher-Price-Turbo to play with, but otherwise the new BEGI "beginner" kit is too awesome of a deal, especially if you don't have to worry about smog-testing in Nevada.

how do you reduce stress on the manifold? if you have pixs that'll be good thanks

Yes, I never finished b/c between Scott's FAQ and the BEGi S-kit, I probably will never get back to it, but hope that in it's half-finished form it helps a little:

https://www.miataturbo.net/bgracer/GReddyFAQ.htm

Click on the link above.

i higly suspect ill delete mine one day and simply write, buy an EMS.

see, that link was great, minus the fact its not done, but it does help, links and pics ftw

you just won the award for the worst screen name ever.

the other writeup that Tom refers to is this: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4288

thanx.......:cry:

anyway, that thread is great, its full of information that keeps me busy at work

anyone from hawaii that can help me out?? Mines been sitting for two months already.

Bringing this thread back up. Been a while on the thought to boost my car due to nursing school. The money i had for the kit that my parents were gonna order i decided to just pay for my books ahead of time and it was worth it. I got one and half semester to finish the program. Like the classes been getting easier im getting back im finally focused on boosting my car. What really sucked is i needed to buy more equipment for nursing equipment due to practice.
With mechanical work around my neighborhood on weekends its supporting the fundings for running turbo on my car. I also got regular job, but using those paychecks just in case for emergencies. So i been piecing up my own kit.
Coming monday ill have;
greddy turbo with etd racing manifold
what i have already is;
vortech fmu greddy standard is what i was told by seller
msd timing retard
greddy downpipe im planning on getting it modified by cutting of the flange and start from their
and intercooler from saab planning on placing it during the summer when i get 1.8 injectors in
Im concerned is i been reading up on couple posts on oil constrictors for turbos and i just keep seeing that they get them for T25. Wondering is one required for the greddy turbo?
For gauges im getting a simple boost gauge and innovate lc-1 sensor this weekend; however, is oil temp guage required?
thanks

You wont have to worry about oil temp with the low boost you will be running but definitely run synthetic. As a dealer I'm bias to Amsoil or course. You never left me any feed back for the MSD box.

Very sorry about that bro, i just submitted it, completely forgot about it. thanks for the info

I didn't run an oil restricter on mine and it was fine. I sold it to a friend and he never had any problems with it either. I was using a -4 AN feed. I think the kit I had is on its 4th or 5th car now.

Bringing this thread back

I saw yall said to run synthetic oil and to change it religiously every 3k miles.

Do you stick to the stock weight of oil when running a turbo?
Any new words on the manifold cracking, or is that history now?

5 psi will leave you with a hard on...

Sooner than later you'll be at 12 -15.

I said the same thing to my friends when boosted, only a conservative 8 psi stock, in less than a year was at 15 psi.

Nice necropost.

It's a slippery slope, once turbo'd. Mazpr is right - before you know it you're at the max of your ignition or internals. Some stop there, and some keep going. The money involved starts to become exponential, though.

My Greddy's been on since 2007 and hasn't cracked yet FWIW.

So i won't stay at 5psi boost for long :D lol