greddy dp replacement- ARTech or Begi?
 

Now that I'm committed to ridding myself of the stock downpipe... is there a good reason to go one way or another?

Begi offers theirs in either mild or stainless, not sure what ARTech offers though. Begi's is only available in 2.5, ARTech is available in a 3" but I don't think I'd really need a 3" dp at this point.

Can anyone comment on fitment of either?

Only other mods to the greddy kit will be FMIC, emanage blue, 360cc or so injectors, and full 2.5 exhaust. I'd like to shoot for around 200 reliable whp with this setup (I wouldn't be surprised if the manifold fails at some point though).

Thanks again all. Looking to get back into the turbo miata groove.

A friend of mine went with the Begi and it fit fine enough. I can't say I'm a fan of the way they connect the two pieces, but it seems to work.

cool, thanks for the response.had anyone had issues with the heater lines after? they seem to run real close....

I think most people bend the heater line so it's out of the way. You can also get wrap that protects hoses from heat. I'd put that on it as well.

I've had both. I say go with Artech and go with a 3".

I have the begi ss and wrapped it in heat wrap all the way down to the catalytic converter. No problems with fitment, and was a night and day difference from the DP that Greddy gives you. Much faster spool up.

I too agree with the above on how the two pipes are connected, but it does work.

Bat Inc sells -10 sizes fire sleeve that you can wrap your heater hoses with and it will probably do a better job than macrame silver foil cloth stuff.

Beg to differ. Fire sleeve is meant to impart fire resistance to lines carrying combustibles. It offers resistance to conductive heat transfer. In addition, the silicone rubber coating dissipates the heat of a fire by ablating. That said, it offers almost no resistance to radiative heat transfer.

If you want to make parts that are near the turbo and downpipe live a while, you've got to fight off the radiation (look at your turbo in the dark after a hard run and you'll see what I mean). The "macrame silver foil cloth stuff" is the right tool for that job.

Go with the ARTech one. Curious as to why you think you don't "need a 3'' yet?"

I have the 2.5" Begi GReddy seperated gasses downpipe and it's very good, except for the stupid system they use to join the two sections together.
2.5" should be fine for your 200whp goals I would think?

I hate how my begi DP connects fom2 pieces with loooong bolt.

The 3 inch isnt about power, its about spool, if you dont need good spool now, maybe because drag car, but will need spool in future, maybe because drag car is turning to street car, then get the begi now..?

Dann

id go with 3 inch from artech, he makes stainless steel, could probably go with mild steel if you asked him it might be a little less but ss is the way to go. i have artech dp and i put reflective wrap around the heater lines and also a reflective pad thing on the brake reservoir.

more pieces (begi) could be more prone for leak and more annoying to install.

From the one begi dp that I have seen, I wasn't too impressed with the build quality. I would go with ARTech if he is available.

1000% for ARTech. He made my manifold and downpipe and I'll never use anything else.

Thanks guys... he's actually already on it for me :)

Post pix when you get it.

ditto...in for pics

I have a 2.5" ARTech 'Greddy' DP ... the craftsmanship is impeccable.

He is also a gentleman to do business with.

-Zach

i'll be getting rid of my turbo tony DP pretty soon myself...need to sell it since I'll be getting an Artech I hope :D

I'm thinking to go the same way. I am actually just now installing my Greddy kit and I have a FM 2.5" turbo exhaust. Currently I'm stuck because the aftermarket dp I have is 2.5" but it won't fit up to the 1.8L FM cat I have.

What size dp did you go for? Does it make any sense to get a 3" dp if you have a 2.5" exhaust?

What type of CAT do you run to fit up to a 3" dp?

It doesn't hurt if you're buying a DP already. With the DP I'm having Abe make me I'm going 3" since it's the same price and I can eventually upgrade to one of the many 3" exhausts.

If you're not planning on upgrading any time soon, I wouldn't. I believe to see any performance, exhaust has to be opened from the tip back. Opening it up and then restricting it doesn't help. I could be wrong though.

So what cat or test pipe are you running to match your 3" down pipe to your 2.5" exhaust?

Also, what did Abe quote you for turnaround time?

I'm getting a 2.5 setup to go with my ebay tsudo exhaust. I'm having an exhaust shop weld in a 2.5 pipe where the first resonator is so that it's 2.5 the whole way through.

I sent him a 2.5 cat which he's going to weld in place to meet up with the rest of the exhaust. I think he quoted a 7 week turnaround, he just notified me that my parts should be ready soon.

-Stan

I'm bolting my old 2.5" exhaust to my 3" dp since I plan on upgrading eventually. I'm not sure I'd want to run that abrupt transition long term.

The same flange will work for a 2.5" and 3", it's just a bigger hole.

He quoted me 6 weeks, and he says that's what he tells everyone just to be safe.

A preview of the goodness:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409

The cat will be held onto the dp using a lap joint. I'll post pics once installed as well.

Crono, when you get it on, can you post a spool comparison for us?

I don't have numbers for the stock greddy part, since I ran it with bandaids and never tuned it. I'll post up an RPM/boost graph once I have the MS dialed in on the new setup though.

Have Artech GReddy manifold and Turbo Tony DP. Would have gone Artech underslung mani and straight out 2.5" DP had I known about Abe at the time. Absolute gent to deal.

We can compare. I'm coming from a greddy manifold+2.5" dp to a bottom mount artech unit, similar sized sr20, and a 3" DP with 2.5" exhaust.

Well after going back and forth on how to make a 3" DP work with my 2.5" cat and exhaust, I decided to bite the bullet and go all the way to getting a full 3" DP, cat, and exhaust from ARTech.

He has a lot of work on his hands so in the mean time I'm having him modify my 1.6 FM cat to a 2.5" inlet so I can use my 2.5" system for now. If I get a chance to dyno that before I switch to the 3" set up, I'll post some numbers.

I'm curious, why did you end up changing to an SR20 turbo from your GReddy?

Owned...again. I guess I'm going to do the foil macrame on my car too. This forum rules.

So I can more easily upgrade down the line to a larger turbo, it also makes the mani/dp setup have a higher resale. Hopefully. They are nearly identical in size/power capabilities.

My dp and cat should be here in about 6 weeks :)

got mine in last week- hopefully i'll be able to install tomorrow.

Just to clarify this, so the wrinkley looking fire-sleeve does nothing to help part longevity and it's sole purpose is to stave off fire? Which makes it pretty important in an aviation application, but somewhat less so for automotive?

It's very helpful, just not if you're looking to lower radiant heat. That's where vents and heat shields come into play.

Ah, makes sense. Wish I could do the same but I'm try to keep my car CARB legal (well in the sense that I can remove a bunch of stuff and go down to the stock kit every 2 years when I have to do a smog check)

California sucks for doing fun things to your car! If they truly just want clean air then everything should be based on what comes out of the tailpipe and don't worry about what I have under the hood. (I'm sure a million people have said this.) Done ranting.

I'm also a bit confused about this as well. My friend used a standard oil hose to the hole he tapped in his pan and it split during a track day from being to close to the manifold and started leaking. When I went to the high end plumming supply place to get my braded stainless hose and AN fittings for my oil drain line I was worried about the same issue so I asked them what I could use for heat protection. They gave me hose cover called Firesleeve from Parker http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...=FS-F-14&Wtky=

It doesn't actually look like the wrap they show on the website. It is basically a tube with orange silicone around a braded soft fiberglass sock. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331058960

In the end my braded hose is no where near the manifold so I didn't use the Firesleeve. However, I was thinking it would be good to put over the heater hoses that run so close to the DP. I could see why the thin foil could be good to protect them by reflecting back the heat but it seams like this Firesleeve could act like a silicon oven mitt and insolate the hoses from the extra heat?

It's pretty expensive so I'll return it if it isn't going to help protect the hoses from external heat.

That's the stuff the military puts around combustible fluid lines, I assumed it was to preserve them but hornetball suggested it's to fight a potential fire hazard. I'm inclined to believe almost anything he says :giggle: