Wakaranai

I have my greddy kit, and I am getting ready to install it within the next couple weeks or so. I also have my front mount intercooler, with piping etc. Ive been reading and noticed people said to install stuff piece by piece, to eliminate problems etc. So should I just install the factory greddy kit, drive that for a while, then install my fmic, or Since I have everything rite now, should I just intsall the fmic while installing the greddy kit?

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

I would install the front mount. As long as there are no leaks it shouldnt give you any trouble.
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jedduh01

iTrader: (4)

Installing just the Greddy kit is very simple.... you could be running in one day... barring nothing goes wrong. Then adding the FMIC later. and making changes can be easily done...adjusting etc. All without worry of your first piece interacting with your later changes.


Goodluck , have fun

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

i just did this recently, ill give u my tips


1. take off the belly pan under car (plastic piece) this allows for easier movement under car

2. theres a support bracket holding the intake manifold to the block, this is over engineering on mazda's part and you should take this out, it will make installing the oil return much, much easier., it also makes oil changes a snap,
if you feel insecure, you can put it back, ive been running my car without for a few months, and see no ill effects, a friend of mine has been running his for over a year without it, also no side effects

3. the 3 bolts on the stock miata down pipe will
a.) sieze
b.) break
c.) not come off at all
prepare for this, buy new bolts
replace all the bolts in the greddy kit with grade 10 or higher, this will cost a total of like 14 dollars, dont skimp out

4.***make sure to unplug the hose from the intake to the other side of the valve cover***
this is shown in green below

DSCF3229-1.jpg
i forgot to do this.... and pressurized my crankcase... very not cool


i started mine at 9pm, went to sleep at 1, woke up the next day at 9, and had car driving around by noon, i did it very slowly, i was working in the ice ice cold, and it had snowed earlier, so it sucked.
if u have nice weather, and a friend to help, it can be done in 3-4 hours tops


good luck, if u have any questions, pm me, i answer all pms within 4 hours
i get them sent to my phone and reply asap

mx5dude69

stupid question probably, but i cant find an answer...
in the pic from you setup and others i see you have a small cone filter in the valve cover.

in other setups, like this one, there's a hose from the valve cover to the intake...
http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/2605/mx5vanown6.jpg

why/what is this?

thx

Alberto

Thats for blow-by evacuation. venting it into the atmosphere with a cone filter works, routing it to the intake plumbing PRE-turbo works better . . and routing it PRE-turbo with an In-line catch canister works best.

Wakaranai

so you can just run that line to a catch can, and from the catch can to the turbo, pre turbo?

Urgayknowit are you running the factory greddy oil return line, or did you tap the pan? If your using the factory return line, have you had any problems with it? I dont know whether to tap the pan, or just run the greddy return line, since I have it already; and it will be less work than drilling a hole, and taping the pan.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

install fmic and bov the first time, the stock crossover pipe is problematic at best anyhow so you'll probably run into less problems with the fmic

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

Yes just like that image. Except put a catch can.


Im using the factory oil return. Its works fine. There a member that put 10,000 miles in it already. Put if you have time, just tap the pan. It would be worth it, because i hate opening my hood and seeing that hose running across the engine bay.

Wakaranai

Hmm why would it be better to go to a catch can, then back to the turbo, rather than just leaving it in the catch can? wont routing it back to pre turbo cause oil to get in there?

J.T.

Thats what the catch can is for man, the air expands and slows down, loses most(if not all) the oil in it, then only air goes back to pre-turbo

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

ive had no problems yet with it, ive had it installed since xmas?

i beat on the car hard. only thing is that it doesnt look nice

FHS

iTrader: (2)

In case you missed it, install the base GReddy AND the FMIC at the same time. You won't have to worry about the stock crossover ballooning and popping off every 20 miles.

Just make sure your FMIC couplers and clamps are in good condition. Get new ones if you have to. Don't waste time and effort installing crap that will just blow apart on your first road trip to Vegas...

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Get new couplers for everything and get screw clamps to replace the worm clamps. Install the intercooler at the same time as the turbo as you've got everything apart anyway. If your intercooler setup is good then it shouldn't be difficult to get it all together.

I did the IC and the turbo at the same time and there were no problems.

I also redid all the vacuum lines with new hose to make sure there were no leaks anywhere.

I used the stock oil return line rather than tapping the pan. It's easy and it works. If you are into making your engine compartment look good then it might annoy you that the hose runs across the front of the engine bay, but otherwise it works fine.

If you have the dough I would get a larger downpipe from turbo tony and install that rather than the stock downpipe. I paid $265 for the downpipe and $140 for a high flow cat from Tony. I just installed it today and it was worth it.