Greddy Winter Breakdown: Upgrades
 

Okay well today starts my "winter teardown" of my greddy setup, it started because I sold my Turbotony DP, because I aquired the New Stainless Steel BEGI upgrade, well I decided if I'm gonna do all this might as well do it big. Well here is why I am posting... My plans so far

-I wanna remove my A/C and P/S.... I think I can do this with no problem just loop the P/S lines

-Clock the Greddy and run 2.5" aluminum IC pipes instead of my 2" steel ones... but whats a cheap way to adapt the oil drain?

-Tap my oil pan and get rid of that shitty across the engine drain

-I hate the rusted looking greddy pieces, So I would like to get them all ceramic coated for looks and heat, where is a cheap place to ship them to?? There are no places in this town that does it I called everywhere within 50 Miles :vash:

-Maybe replace the greddy manifold, would It net any major gains....??

-if possible do a DIY port and polish of the turbo(I have no experience with this, but own a dremel) would It be very involved and precise? worth wasting the time???

-Mazdaspeed motor and diff mounts where is the cheapest place for this???

-6 puck ACT unsprung clutch and 10lb flywheel should I get a sprung one?, what are the disadvantages?

-got the advanced auto sports SS clutch line

-Either 4.10 torsen or a 1.8 diff Should I save the money with the 1.8? or get the torsen I don't ever autocross...

I have a lot of plans but If anyone else could think of some stuff that would be worth my time to net some more gains out of my greddy I have a reliable DD so down time is no problem anymore:giggle: Sorry for the novel just have alot of plans for the car for next warm season around here

I don't think you should jack with a turbo port, maybe portmatch the manifold though.

go with the sprung clutch hub, its much easier on the trans

get a torsen, it really makes the car hook-up


get a big radiator and take it to autobahn.

Swaintech.com for the Ceramic coating and you'll be right on with the 1.8 4:10 torsen in a five speed but the 5 speed is the weak link around 300rwhp. I'm @ 272.46rwhp and I toasted mine but I was "NOT" easy on it by any stretch of the imagination. I had to get a 6 speed and with the 4:10 gearing first gear is useless and @ 80mph on the freeway I was @ 4150rpm so I got a 3:63 and life is mo' betta! :) Sounds like you've got a great plan just keep us posted and I definately agree with hustler, get a radiator, even if it's only a 37mm Koyo it will be way better than stock. Happy Building!

Well I got the P/S and A/C removed and turbo and mani, DP all pulled out, but don't know if I should buy the ETD mani, what do you guys mean by port the manifold?? Should I drop $400 for the manifold or just get the cast iron one coated and throw it back on???:hustler:

I had an ETD manifold on my Greddy'd '90 for ~2 weeks before the car was totaled, the DP was the stock greddy unit and there were some noticeable ass-dyno gains from the mani. Spool improved a good little bit and there may have been some power freed up If you've got the funds available, go ahead and pick one up.

Well I went ahead and bought the "Damn thing" LOL :vash: hopefully its worth it

Haha, at the very least you will have peace of mind over your manifold cracking from now on. Just DO NOT get the urge to make relief cuts in this manifold!!

Haha Oh I wont make them does it really cost $200 to get stuff ceramic coated??? thats what the swaintech website says anyone else have anything cheaper??

There was a DIY FAQ here on how to do ceramic coating not too long ago. I don't think I could justify spending $200 to have just a brand new DP ceramic coated.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t26242/

Worth a shot....

My BEGi SS tubular mani was $175 but it will make power and cut underhood temps dramatically. Swaintech White Lightning coating is far superior to any other out there, it comes with a warranty but.......it only comes in White!! Worth the money if you want as much power as humanly possible and who doesn't?:)

We charge $85 for a cast manifold.
Stephanie

Well I got the tranny pulled and clutch and flywheel out.. now here goes my ? what all should I change while I have the tranny out I bought (water outlet plug, CAS o-ring how do I change without messing up my timing, new TOB, front and rear tranny seal, rear main seal, anything else I should change while its out?? what oil should I use for the tranny just 75w-90 gear oil?? Ill post pictures up tommorow

So Im trying to clean up the tranny It had alot of oil in it...:cool: What a pain in the ass, Ill try and post some pictures of my new parts and of the car in pieces

and where do I get plugs, so i can depower my rack??

I just looped the lines, and smashed the other two shut to keep out debris :) But it doesn't look awesome, so I'd like an answer on the plugs too.

For clocking, I used a billet Al adapter from atpturbo. I think it was the "fits all GT series turbos" one. Lemme see..

Here's a pic of the stock Greddy drain next to the ATP for reference:
Attachment 210270

this one looks actually a little better than the one I used:
Alum 5 Degree Tilt Oil Drain Tube: atpturbo.com

but I used this one:
Oil Return Flange with integrated 5/8" barb For GT15 Through GT35R: atpturbo.com

And this fitting for the pan:
Fitting, 45 deg, 1/2" NPT male to 5/8" single slip on barb: atpturbo.com

and some of this hose:
Hi Temp Rubber/Silicone Oil Drain Hose - 5/8" (-10 AN equivalent ID): atpturbo.com

Edit - the result:
Attachment 210271

As for the piping, that's pretty easy once you've cut out all that AC/PS dead weight :) clocked with 2.5" Al piping:
Attachment 210272

Why a 6-puck? It shouldn't be necessary...

Thanks for the reply and info kotomile, The best response I've had yet But I want the 6 puck ,if for some reason I want more power I might not have to pull the tranny again.. and I bought it used(yeah I know but It was very affordable) kotomile, how did you make the pipe off of the throttle body?? thats the only concern I have with the new IC setup

Far from ideal, but here's the first one I made:

Attachment 210264

That's a copper home depot fitting, wedged tight into a hole I bored into the pipe and then sealed with JB. When we did my MS install, we cannibalized that pipe and it became my new intake, and now I run the idle valve with a little filter on it.

The rest of the piping, starting at the turbo and following up to the TB:
Attachment 210265
Attachment 210266
Attachment 210267
Attachment 210268
Attachment 210269

How does the idle valve work with a filter on it??? I might just do this? and what are the dimensions on your intercooler??

Without an AFM to worry about, the idle valve works like.. normal. I think the jury's still out on whether or not the idle valve leaks boost (cue this thread becoming an idle valve thread) but I haven't had any problems.

My intercooler is 22x9x3 (core)