Bronze

iTrader: (3)

I am considering tapping my oil pan and using a SS braided line with -10 an fittings on the ends. I was wondering if an 18" premade line was to long or short. The other option was to go with silicone pipe, any negatives either way?. On a side question is it better to have the oil supply line run up through the exhaust manifold and mount to the turbo? Or is it better to route it on the outside side of the turbo (The side between the turbo and brake master cylinder)?

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Or 3; run it up by the dipstick, clamp it at one of the valve cover plate bolts and shoot across to the turbo.

I'm not a fan of it sitting between the manifold tubes.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

18" might be cutting it close. I believe I always buy 2 feet of the silicone stuff and cut it down a bit, and my turbo sits low. silicone is cheaper and works fine, but after a year or two you may need to replace it.

I wouldn't get my feed line anywhere close to the manifold. I run my up the dipstick, and back around the "shelf" then into the turbo.

PAT!

iTrader: (1)

Silicon isn't (technically) suited for oil unless it has been fluoro-lined. It will eventually breakdown, so if you use it and it isn't lined you will have to replace it, as Braineack mentioned.

If you are worried about the tremendous pain in the *** of assembling -10 braided line using threaded collar fittings just use the normal push on style. Cheaper and good to 100+ psi without a clamp. They technically aren't supposed to be used with braided line but that is only an issue in high pressure systems.

If heat is your primary concern, measure everything precisely and have some braided teflon lines made and cover it in fire-sleeve. The teflon stuff has the highest temp rating but an absolutly terrible bending radius, and it needs to be assembled using a hydraulic press... So measure twice.

If you want to get real silly, go to an industrial hose company, I've had good results with Pirtek, and get the really heavy duty hose. This stuff will have to be preassembled like the teflon stuff... can't recall offhand what its called but it is an inner sleeve of whatever that is braided, another layer of "rubber", another braided layer, another "rubber", one more braided, and a final outer sleeve of "rubber". This hose has an operating pressure of, if i remember correctly, 300 BAR! and radiant heat doesn't faze it.

1991BRG

Just order from JGS Precision the Oil Drain Kit #TA006 which comes with 18" of silcone oil hose. http://www.jgsturbo.com/index2.html
Basic Turbo Drain Line Kit Includes:
Turbo drain outlet flange (different flanges come in different kits)
10AN Silcone oil hose
2 10AN to 1/2 NPT adapters
2 SS hose clamps

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

SS Lines aren't that much of a pain in the **** to build. The trick is just to use either a chopsaw with an abrasive blade or a bandsaw with a fine metal blade to get a clean cut on the end of the hose without distorting the braid. A dremel with an abrasive disc might also work- never tried it.

If you don't own any of these tools but are able to purchase the hose locally, the shop will make the cuts for you. Buy the fittings ahead of time, then take them home and use them as a guide while you trial-fit a piece of cut garden hose to get the length.

Here are some pictures of my setup. The feed is -4 and the drain is -10, using a combination of Russell and Earls products: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=25

1991BRG

Joe Perez, your oil drain and oil feed looks great. Could have used your knowledge before I installed the FM oil drain setup on my car 4 years ago. Currently my oil drain line is leaking. Will be replacing the stock greddy oil drain outlet flange with the JGS outlet flange. Since the JGS kit uses the 5/8" hose like the FM setup, I will be able to remove the reducer (3/4" to 5/8") that is currently leaking oil.

PAT!

iTrader: (1)

And wrap them with painters tape so they don't fray. Still a pain in the *** for most people.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

I have 18' of line and its way to much (about 6inches need to b trimmed)...btw dremel/grinder no good for cutting SS line.

Bronze

iTrader: (3)

Well, I think I am going to go with the JGS Precision Kit but I think I am going to get the 24" kit just to be on the save side.

Braineack, I have the 1/2" NPT -14 tap but can't find the 23/32 drill bit. I think I read somewhere that you use an 11/16" is this true. I can get one of these.

Thanks Guys

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

I used a 3/4 drille bit and a 1/2npt tap and it worked perfectly

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Let me know if you want me to get you a price.
-Michael-

Bronze

iTrader: (3)

Bandit, Are you associated with JGS? Either way could you get me the price for a kit equilivent to theres? Or were you refering to the drill bit?

Thanks

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

No affiliation with JGS. I can get you a quote for the equivalent.
-Michael-

Bronze

iTrader: (3)

Bandit,

Did you get that price quote?

Michael

expensivehobby22

IMG_2125.jpg

Just for reference. My costs below. I'd rather go SS, but I have to be budget minded at this point.

I modified my greddy drain flange to point down. Basically, cut their pipe off, drilled and tapped for the new fitting, then soldered it all together.

Hose (Hi Temp, etc) $7/ft, so ~ $10
Heat Shield $7/ft, so ~ $10
5/8" Hose Barbs $1 ea, so ~ $2
Male/Male 1/2 NPT Fitting $2
45 deg Bend $2
1/2 NPT Tap - Borrowed
Drill Bit - Borrowed

Total $26