Maybe burst your old return line (after the 12:1 clamping) or hydrolock your injector. Are you running any sort of fuel management? You must be running big time rich!


12:1 means 12 psi of fuel per pound of boost. The vortech doesn't always run exactly at this ratio, but it will still be over fueling your setup with an aftermarket HP pump. Buy the 6:1 or get a Begi AFPR, or better yet, go standalone.

not if we shovel alot of air into it ive done it for a while ut works fine

So a Greddy running 12PSI would be how many on another turbo?

I am makin closer to 250 whp at 12 psi considerig my turbo flows 500+ cfm from 10 psi on ward and the td04 flows 428 cfm max think about it less abietic heat and more power. Alot of greddys at 15 psi can barely get past 270 whp for comparison.

Is that supposed to be a bad thing?

Unless your running low boost (5-6 psi or less), using a high ratio disc in the vortech will have your fuel pressure pegging out at 130-140 psi. I tested it myself with my FP gauge. With the 190HP fuel pumps, the best disc is generally the 4:1 or 6:1.

I ran it with an 8:1 disc and it was pegging 130 psi all the time. Car was bogging big time at high boost.

Sorry to hijack, back on topic.

No one is knocking the greddy turbo, it is capable of decent power. What people are saying is that PSI does not equal the same power output from turbo to turbo. 15psi on the greddy can equal 275hp depending on mods and tuning. Whereas a larger or more efficient turbo could reach 275hp at 10 psi. It's not how many PSI you run it's how much CFM you are running through any specific turbo. The greddy is only efficient up to 15 i believe, after that it is past its compressor efficiency.

Oh thought of another addition to the list:

change coolant hoses at least every 5 years and get some worm screw clamps on em. (for nestor)

But PSI doesnt vary from turbo to turbo, correct? I understand that the power output on one turbo at 15 psi is different then another. Your not saying that when my Greddy is putting out 12 PSI its actually 10 on another turbo. Isnt the stock motor only good for 12 anyway?

Another tip: T-clamps > Screw clamps

Didn't you just say that you understood that different turbos at different boost levels would be producing different power levels? That said, there isn't a magic boost level at which the motor dies.

On a 1.6? Without cams, N2O, or revving to 9000?

:inout:

Actually, the info on the 3KGT board, with compressor maps, says 24psi is max efficiency, with 28psi being max boost.

It's pretty simple. A larger turbo will push MORE AIR in the same amount of time as a smaller one at the same PSI. It isn't compression, it's VOLUME that changes.

Key word was could in that sentence, no one said anything about what motor, mods or redline. Given as general information of what could maybe be possible, not what is going to happen but i guarantee a big enough turbo at 10 psi would produce 275 hp.

That's a very misleading statement. A greddy turbo could possibly make 300 at 10psi if you threw enough motor, and mods at it.

but in either of these cases we aren't talking about miatas.

If i wrote this how to, I'd only put #2 & #4 on there and elaborate; the rest is just tidbits of random tuning advice.

I doubt it. Turbos can only flow so much air.

And that was the whole purpose of my comment concerning PSI-CFM, it had nothing to do with actual power output of the miata engine with any turbo.

I understood your argument and wasn't countering it.
But you could have worded a couple things a bit better. Like when you said a bigger turbo is more efficient. That's not true, it just has a different efficiency range compared to a smaller turbo.

It's all about pushing air, not pressure.

I took your comment as support actually.


What happened to that dump truck in your avatar? I operate scrapers during the summer months and deal with large machinery like that daily but have never seen one on it's ass end..