i'm bout to sell my car
 

i just can't figure out why my car does this crazy shit that it does. if you havent read my last posts.. my car will drive nicely up to around 4300 rpms and have boost around 3200 rpm. then at 4300 - 4500 rpms it just like sputters and has a few like popping noises.. kind of like the flapper door on the afm is popping or something like that its coming from the drivers side of the engine.. if i can find a shop that tunes turbo cars and stuff around the zip code 45601 i will be willing to drive up to 2 hours away from that zip code... PLEASE HELP ME.. or i'm gonna take the turbo off my car and sell everything seperate... thanks for reading and your help is GREATLY appreciated..

-Brad.

you running rich up top?

Maybe lean in the midrange... he's still on the stock fuel pump. How much boost are you trying to run? Did you install a new fuel filter?

not yet i may do that today if you all think thats what it could be cuz i looked at one at my autozone and it was 23$ so i may just try that. how hard and where is the filter located.. and the funny thing is my plastic tube going to my boost gauge got pinched off yesterday and i tried to cut it off and put a new pressure fitting on it and it would fit so im pretty sure its around 8psi. but the other thing is .. the only way i can get that is if i tighten my boost controller down all the way( i made a BC) so its basically not letting air to the waste gate which is another problem.. anddd i'm not sure about the AF ratio i don't have a gauge or WB

maybe a subject change is in order "i'm bout to BLOW UP my car"

how is that?

any more suggestions?

lets see...

malfuntioning boost gauge (leading you to)

completely close off the wastegate actuator line

and having no idea what your AFR's are at

no i've tested around with shutting off the wastgate before the boost guage problem to see how much boost i was getting and it was around the 9-10 psi range so its not like i don't know what my boost was or is right now. and as for my AFR i have no idea what it is i have 1.8l injectors now so it should be good for 8-9 psi so i don't know why it is sputtering and popping like that.. so HELP to my problem would be Grand..

oh yea that and i'm getting horrible gas mileage like 13 MPG.?

OK, lets see if I can make some suggestions.
First, you're on the stock fuel pump and 1.8injectors, and the stock disc in your Vortech. You can do all the math you want, but I have experience with this... it's not enough fuel for more than about 7-8psi. If ANYTHING goes wrong at that level, you're gonna run lean and hurt your motor. LEAVE THE MBC OUT OF THE EQUATION FOR NOW SO IT'S ONE LESS THING TO TROUBLESHOOT.

If the signal line to the wastegate can is taken directly off the compressor housing or one of the taps on top of the throttle body, and you still aren't making any boost, you have one of the following:
1: Boost leak. It doesn't matter how many times you've checked and rechecked... there is one.
-OR-
2: You've got a serious fuel imbalance, either really rich or lean. Both will cause a serious power loss and inability to spool the turbo... rich makes sense with all your coughing and sputtering when entering boost.
-OR-
3: Broken wastegate actuator, very weak spring, or not adjusted properly.

Horrible gas mileage would indicate your running really rich all the time. Is this also accompanied by black exhaust smoke? Check your tailpipe and tell me if it's completely caked with black soot. There should be some soot... but does it look like a soot sandbox in there, little grains of soot coating the entire inside of the pipe?

The small thin hard-plastic line that comes with most boost gauges is crap. It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you ditch the stock hardware that came with the gauge and instead, connect a standard silicone boost line with a brass barb to the back of the gauge.

Pull your spark plugs, check the gaps and report back the condition of the plugs. Better yet, take a pic or all your plugs lined up and post so we can take a look at them... it's a longshot, but improper gap, corroded, bad plugs would cause bad sputtering as the car goes rich when it enters boost.

ok this will be my project today then. if i take the line off to the can i am making alot of boost since the wastegate wouldn't be opening right? i just changed my spark plugs and wires about a month ago and i checked the gap before i put them on and it was good i might pull them out and check them though and take some pictures. i;ll be back in a little while and post them up or PM you and let you know. thanks
\-brad

cause your o2 sensor needs replacing.

With a wideband version. :magna:

:hustler::magna::vash::robert::crx::pitlab::fm:
And Scot :cool::)

ok changed my o2 sensor and it feels like it drives a bit better. and i pulled my spark plugs also. they had black around the ends like it was running too rich. i ask a guy i work with that was at the shop when i was messing around and he said it was prolly running too rich..

sounds like your flapper door is busted, thats what was basically happening to me
...get a MS PNP or buy my FM LINK lol with map senor so get rid of the AFM altogether

I think you need to add a wideband and some fuel management (msquirt) before you damage the motor itself and end up with a very expensive "oops".

i jst don't have money for all that stuff id love to get a MS or your fm link but i really just don't have enough money. between college and all the stuff i buy here and there its not enough.. haha i would rather sell my car and move on to something practicall to carry my art work in and industrial design projects.. SO if any one would like to buy my car please let me know. i'm being serious so don't take this as a joke. PM if you would like to know more or ask on this thread.. i might post my car up in the for sale part..

-brad

Do you live in Northern Ohio? I'm in South East MI, if your close I can try and help.

I'm not sure how the Bipes works exactly. When I had an EMB with the wrong AFM setting the second I hit boost it would sputter and fall on it's face. If the Bipes has a setting or connection for your AFM check to make sure it is correct. Is it possible the Bipes could be reading it incorrectly and then throwing in fuel or running lean?

Don't sell the car. It is probably something really easy that you just overlooked.

Bipes pulls timing in relation to boost. More than likely it is pulling too much timing which would explain the lack of power and popping.

I don't know if I missed it, but do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

if you want just pay shipping and ill send you an AFM...i have 2 lying around

i've basically got it running fine now. its just at the stock greddy boost of about 5 psi i've tightened my wastegate so it hits 6 psi max. it doesn't sputter or pop or anything so all things are good. butttt i still would like to run more boost buttt again i need to sell my car soon... if there is a CHEAP way to run some more boost and make it a lil faster because i will be selling my car def. around spring so let me know some ideas. thanks

-brad

cheap and boost dont go well together

Don't change anything, just enjoy it. By spring, it should still be running and you can sell it as a running car instead of a project, like many do. Just my old man .02.

Or get a wideband. If we don't see your car for sale in spring, we will force you to get a wideband or we will ban you. Not really, I just made that part up.

well... he is running a turbo system + a dry nitrous shot. without engine management... so I imagine the engine won't last till spring if he hits the "go baby go" button on the shifter.

nice "gone in 60 sec" reference, but yea i doubt it'll last that long if does it hit