Install preparation
 

I got my greddy kit and I'm revin' up to install it. I running the tank down so I can go to the filling station and get some premium. I went to autozone and picked up some NGK BKR5E-11 plugs. I asked them for one heat range colder but I haven't confirmed this stock number as the correct plug yet. I will entrust this to the autozone parts computer.

I'm trying to dig up info on setting the timing. I'm gonna do this before I put the turbo on. Problem is that I can't find a how to thread or some newbie getting called stupid for not reading some faq before asking the same question. I know where the CAS is on the back near the firewall. Problem is I cannot see it well so I can't find the obvious bolt. I also found from my search results that some wire has to be jumped. I've got my timing light in hand so if anyone can send me a link to a how to or a reference page in a FSM that I also do not have a link to I'd appreciate it.

Also any more info you could provide me? I've come to these conclusions from my searching any tips or procedures I've missed?:
1) Tapping the pan or going around to the nipple for the oil return are just as good
2) I will upgrade my hardware to grade 8.8
3) For now I will use the gaskets supplied on low boost and then mill the mani and downpipe after some heat cycling and it's attained a constant surface. Studs may be a good idea at that time
4) Earls lines are a cheap upgrade after selling the new greddy oil line and hardware on ebay.
5) Make the twelve cut relief cuts. Am I to assume from the picture that I don't cut all the way through on the middle piece and leave the top where the flange doesn't make contact with the head.
6)Tightened down the wastegate and didn't turn the shaft going into the can

dont ever trust anyone form autozone. you just got one step WARMER plugs. What you want are BKR7Es. No -11.

it's a 12mm bolt just to the bottom of the CAS, it's basically on the firewall, very tight.

GND & TEN

I will always err on tapping

you're not going to want to later, it should be ok as is.

and upgrade form what? Stainless lines for stainless lines?

I think all those cuts are overkill, in the least do the ones between 1 & 2 and 3 & 4.

Awesome! OEM plugs were heat range 6. Heat range 5 is the next step hotter. :td:

Have you seen the stock greddy line? It's a POS that is difficult to route and has goofy fittings on the engine side. It's just a rubber hose with a really course SS braid overtop, so it doesn't bend easily. I changed mine out for a teflon lined SS brake line.

yeah...it works.

Stock greddy line has been working for almost 5 years now.

This website here is a great source of info on basic mods, general maintenance, etc...: www.miata.net

On the left side of the page, in the tech section, go into the GARAGE and take a good look through the info there.

GARAGE
ENGINE AND DRIVETRAIN
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
IGNITION WIRES/PLUGS/TIMING

There's a whole page on how to set your timing.

Thanks for the responses everyone

Braineack: I kinda thought the ones on each of the bolts was kinda overkill too. I considered doing just the three cuts between the runners and increasing the radii of the holes moving out from the center of the manifold

My thinking for the oil line was that the supplied line would be fine but if it ever did break I'd have a time finding replacement parts. If the hardware supplied is any indication of the quality of the oil line I feel I've upgraded to the likes of a grade 8 line. I helped out another greddy owner by selling my line and fittings as replacements so the total cost only came out to about 30.00 after the fact. Cheap insurance.

I guess it is autozone FTL. I think I'll stick to the forums for my part numbers now. Thanks for the clarification

SamNavy: Thanks, I'll look at that stuff later. I'm registered there but haven't really taken a look around the forum.

just dont get lost in the BS.

I like to B BS free. I shall take what I need and not say thank you.

Mother of god why did mazda make the stock exhaust manifold that way. Any assistance in getting it out? I saw threads previously on this. I have all the bolts off at the flange, holding the exhaust to the bracket, and going to the cat. It seems to just barely catch exerywhere when trying to pull it up out while the collector is still mated to the midpipe. I hear people use a cut off wheel to just remove cut up the manifold but is there a less destructive way?

You have to take the tranny bracket off the tranny to get it out in one piece from my experience. Then you can just rotate it this and that way while pulling it out.

I had no problem getting mine off, in fact i put a 1 pc aftermarket header in, and it fit easily, there is a bracket that holds the water line in front of the header, you might be getting caught on that.

Hey all. I just finished the turbo project up. It started right up. Now I'm chasing down some irregularities. I have a couple concerns.
1)It smoked a lot off the turbo housing when I first started it up. No big deal I guess but when will it stop?
2)My fuel injectors are making some low buzzing noise. Take a look at the picture and let me know if I did anything wrong.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/melicha8/miata/fmu.JPG
3)It also makes this whirring noise that sounds like an edger. Could it be an exhaust leak? It is only for a brief moment and sounds like a short high pitched buzz.
I'm super bummed about the fitment of this kit as far as pipe provided. Just to get it to fit I had to angle pretty much every coupler and smash parts of the filter to get it to fit under the hood. That was after relocating the diagnostic port
http://www.msprotege.com/members/mel...ata/drside.JPG

fuck you nagger. BS is the bestest.

you should take the plastic wrap off the hoses.

but it gives it that bling blang look

Noted....I'll take the plastic off.
I just did my description one better and took a short vid of the noise it's making
http://www.youtube.com/v/S1AWun0Upyk