installed bov, and car stalls when off throttle
 

i have this small problem, i installed my bov to solve my surge problem
and now ive encountered another problem

car idles fine, and drives pretty good under boost

when i drive,and say i boost it,
and then let off the throttle and roll in neutral,
the car stalls

im assuming the vented air, since its going to atmosphere, is being compensated by the ecu with fuel? causing the car to stall? this is totally a guess

any one else have this problem, and how do i fix it?

you installed that DSM BOV? did you run a vacuum line from your intake manifold to the bov?

You do have a bandaid setup right?
Unless you're running a MAP based EMS like megasquirt you will need to recirculate you BOV so that it vents after the AFM. It's most likely leaking under vacuum causing this problem. Recirc will fix it. Unless you want a new EMS :)

you cant dump to atmosphere on a metered intake and expect to continue to idle properly :)

supersaiyan93 - yes sir i did

cjernigan - yea, bandaids :( but the car idles fine, i can drive it around under boost no prob, as soon as i boost and blow off and throw in neutral, it stalls, but if im shifting, its fine

only if i throw in neutral does it die,, but if i ween it slowly ,, say blow off, and then tap the gas, it idles down just fine

Braineack - tell me somthing i dont know :(



as for the ems,, what is it, how much is it, what does it do, is it like emb?

EMS=engine management system
I was referring to MS, I don't recommend anything else.
Recirc your BOV, do a search on it if you need a picture, it will fix your problem.

thanx alot, searching it up as i type this

quick question, i wont be able to do this for a few days,
does venting to atmosphere hurt the car in anyway?

Only damage it causes is your pride when you take people for rides and it runs like crap or stalls at a light. Having a BOV is better than having no BOV while you pray surge doesn't kill your turbo.

okie, pride wont hurt,
at the end of the day,
they r the ones going for a ride,
in my sweet ass boosted miata :greddy:

you can try adjusting the dashpot to let your idle gradually come down. but it's definitely a bandaid approach. You should fix it proper.

I wouldn't mess with the dashpot, though I bet adjusting your base idle higher to around 1000 rpms would help with it. This is kind of the reason I installed a recirculated bosch bov. Other reason was at high rpms in first and second gear, throttle modulation becomes impossible.

http://www.**********/stats/bosch%20bov%20install.pdf

I had an extra intake elbow lying around, so I modded one to recirculate. And I carry around the unmodified one and a VTA bov for when I want to sound cool.

EDIT: WTF? Replace the *'s with 15psi .com

wtf... Language filter?

Ive been wondering about that... What did Jim do? I mean, besides tell me that he'll have intercooler piping for me in 90 days then stop answering my emails... I think I called him in July to get some parts...

dont bother with any of the fixes (raise idle, one way check valve) exept to recirculate your bov. My car ran like ass before i recirced, same problems you are having. I recirculated it and it runs perfect.

vta is fun, but running like shit, and having cops turn their head whenever you shift is not so fun

besides crap out some jb welded shit pipes you may/may not get in this century? oh nothing.

where can u get a recirculating pipe, the u shaped one to fit my greddy setup, or will i have to tap it and put some sort of fitting into it?

but yea, i drove it to school today (where i am right now) and it was all cool and shit,
lots of kids were standing around where they funnel to classes.
so i felt like this was prime time to be a dooche bag
its kind of a long straight to the parking lot which happens to go by where all the kids funnel in,,
i got on it and right where there was like 45-50 kids, i blew off,
made a few girls jump, buncha kids looked over and then looked again when they realized it was a miata

then i went around the building and into the parking lot,
where i stalled........ (but no one saw so its ok!) lololol

even tho its fun and makes a buncha noise ,
stalling and looking like an ass is not
,i need to fix this


edit
just read the bosch install,, i need to tap, thanx guys
i dont know what ide do with out all of you

...probly still drive a na miata....

Told you.

grammar and paragraph structure would be my first concern. mini-magna.

sorry, English is my second language

I use spell check a lot :)

I cant use that excuse much longer tho,
Ive been here about 10 years
I'm just lazy and have shitty grammar
work with me here

aiight. at least you have an excuse. Being a redneck is no excuse for Magna.

however, you're from MA and look pretty white in this pic:

http://pixyland.org/peterpan/Imagezz...tand_small.jpg

so one only assumed. :bowdown:





compromised.

im from Europe originally

Check this thread out:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...ght=Bailey+VTA

Ran my Bailey's VTA with my Greddy set-up on Jim's throttle body intake piece (yes, i had to JBweld it there) with only slight rich conditions while shifting. Not sure if any of this info translates to your set-up with your BOV, but it might be helpful while you put together your recirc system.

thanx alot

i get no bucking when shifting, nothing like that,
it just stalls when i lift throttle slowing to a light and throw it in neutral
but if i ween it off boost, say lift off, then keep it in gear,
and slow down to say 2500rpm and then put it in neutral it idles down just fine

so im assuming its just getting too much fuel and kills it self,
so if i throttle it down while not in boost, its fine

basically.

your AFM is metering air, and you're releasing it.

so not only is the mixture off, you have a big vacuum leak while the valve is open.

i vote for no bov!

get an adjustable BOV like a GFB or HKS SSQ. You'll be able to crank it down enough to get it to idle properly, but still pop off when needed.

Yes, as everyone has basically stated here you issue is the BOV is open at idle. Basically you are getting an intake leak. The ECU expects there to be x amount of air in the combustion chamber, gives y amount of fuel. The problem is x is less then what the ecu thinks since air is now escaping from the intake tract via the open BOV. This causes a constant rich condition which is your issue with the car wanting to die.

This is a major issue.

A minor issue (imo) is the fact that with a MAS/MAF/AFM based system when the BOV opens (between shifts under boost, or simply deaccel under boost, aka basically when the BOV SHOULD open) the ecu once again thinks there is more air then there actually is, and you go rich. This is much less of an issue because it only happens for half a second at most, while the open bov at idle happens constantly.

Your fixes are:

1. Replace the DSM BOV with a good VTA BOV.
2. Plumb the DSM BOV recirc pipe back into the intake tract before the turbo.
3. Run an EMS (standalone or some piggybacks) that allow you to convert to MAP based air metering system.

That is pretty much it.

Oddly, I ran that DSM BOV on my car for years and never once stalled out. :confused: Of course, i had a slightly high idle as well. (~1100 rpm.)

I have had my Turbo XS Type S vented to atmosphere for at least a year and it has never stalled. I know it's not the right way to do it, but it works.

Do you have the evil idle dip? When I had the JRSC on my car it would stall ALL the time when rolling to a stop. If you have that, a rich mix and a BOV leak at idle...there is no hope with VTA.

I have a hks knok off and have no idle isues at all runs great

ok, checked it a bunch today,

bov does not leak while idleing, car idles great

it used to dip a bit when slowing down before turbo, but after flywheel install
it is 9lbs

so im assuming that the rich condition with my normal 800rpm idle combined with my flywheel makes me stall

if i take out the rich condition, say i blow off at 4k and keep it in gear while slowing to a light, and then put it in neutral sat at 2500, then it idles down, dips a bit but catches it self

i have a greddy replacment in my house, ill try that on for a few runs, see what happens,
if problem persists, im going to recirc,

ill tell u guys all about it as i do it,

thanx for all of your help



ps,, cruising home, i let the bov go off next to a scion tc that had his window open
he stared at me all the way down the 2 lane rd

i got a kick out of it

FWIW, watching my wideband gauge while cruising on the highway, even the slightest lift will cause it to vent to atmosphere.

reddroptop - went with ur advice, option 2, ordered the etd cross over while i wait to install the front mount
it came with the turbosmart bov, i installed everthing and car runs like stock

thanx alot guys

here are some pics

Attachment 214711
Attachment 214712
Attachment 214713

Looks pretty good, but needs more intercooler.
I have that exact same air filter.

thanx, the air filter is an ebay one lol, didnt want to fit in the motor bay,
i made it fit


and ill install the intercooler as soon as its not snowing, and windy and shitty

Yeah, so I answered my own question. :)

Hes waaay too busy working on his old ass beater lotus projects to cater to us miata drivers. Afterall, he doesn't even own a miata anymore, sold out to the :gay: front engine porsche club..

Hell you can't recirc that valve anyway, what a waste of time. Clean bay though.

No problem dude, Glad I could help.

Not what I would have personally gone with, but if it works for you that is great.

cjernigan - i have a greddy type s that ill eventually recirc, but its way too cold to stay outside for longer than a few min at a time

reddroptop - ill prob change this setup 100 times until i find somthing that i like lol

Cool, sounds like a plan. Long as it works in the meantime.

Must be nice to have the $$$. I just don't see the point, If I am going to do it, I will do it once and right. Saves alot more money in the long run.

I have had my setup planned out for over a year now. Only changes have been adding stuff to the list, and replacing items that either are better for the money or that I have found used (or group buy) for cheap.

I never set aside a budget for it, I bought what I could afford, but I know I would have a ton less if I kept buying and reselling what I wasn't sure of.

But then again, you are turbo right now, and I am not. :inout:

money!?!?!? ahahahahah. i have no such thing, it took me weeks to save enough to buy all these parts

but when i say ill change it 100 times, i mean dif bov, front mount and such, new exhaust, dif valve cover color,

changing little things doesnt cost too much, and if u buy things used its even cheaper


btw,, in full, i paid as follows

550 for turbo kit

150 for new manifold, one i got was cracked

200 for cross over setup

200 for front mount setup

thats about 1100,, thats not too much,
i could of saved some by not buying the front mount
but ill use it later on
i saved from the moment i bought
my miata to where i am now,
then blew a bunch at once

and here i am now,

but now i need full exhaust :( and i dont want to spend more for at least a month

so ill rock the stock exhaust for a month or so until i save a smidge more

bov
 

I feel you, nothing sounds cooler than a bov. On metered air cars like the miata here are two things that work... though plumbing it back on the intake side is really the best option. First off, get a heavier spring. Miata's have great vac pressure so counteracting that with a higher rate spring will work. If you are too broke to do that, and this is pretty ghetto, stretching the spring by hand will effectively increase the rate by a bit. You should get less stalling ... I don't recommend you adjust the idle speed to counter as you are really just making the car run crap. The other thing to consider is that compressor surge on cars running low boost , which yours probably is, isn't a huge factor in longevity.

:vash: