Hey dont waste money on that, suggest the vf43 as upgrade if busted just get a new chra from mellett which should be around 160 usd

Small update. Changed out my wideband for a new one to find out the old one was reading the same. Safe to say I think my tuners dyno wideband is the incorrect one. So to suit I've leaned out everything under 100kpa and tuned boost to 11 flat afr wise for now. Will work on that more later.

I've been chasing a very annoying issue. Ever since I put the 1.8 rear end in my car I've had some serious trans movement and a weird grinding/whining noise when I launch the hard or accelerate aggressively in 1st gear in particular. I've tried tightening all the ppf bolts. Loosening everything and realigning the ppf and everything and nothing has seemed to work. I'm at the point where I'm going to swap in poly diff bushings because I'm super super sick of the whole driveline feeling loose for a completely lack of a better word. Any ideas on this front otherwise? When I jack up my rear diff when all else is tight I find a 1/8th inch gap between the lower diff bushing and the thingy that bolts underneath it to the subframe. Is that normal?


On more positive news, I bring a picture of the swap in my ugly engine bay.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4cf453d84.jpg

Check that your CV axle has adequate clearance where it passes by your coilover each side.

I'll give that a look this weekend but it sounds like more from the transmission area. Almost like flywheel teeth on the side of something lightly. Last time i heard this sound was because i broke the rear diff spacer, but I've already been under there and didnt find anything broken.

I forgot to update this thread. The sound was PPF being out of alignment, somewhat considerably i'll admit(about 1 1/2" too low) and is gone once fixed. I also swapped out my spanked rear diff bushings for poly and upgraded to AWR engine mounts as well. Very nice to get rid of the absurd amount of slop that was in the combination of those sets of bushings.

As of now i'm still chasing some spark blowout/potentially knock around the 2600-3200rpm range. It feels more like spark blow out but multiple sets of new plugs and plug wires haven't done anything to cure it. I have also tried swapping the CAS with no luck. I have pulled 4-5 degrees of timing out of the area that has the stumble with no real success. I have also tried two sets of NA6 coil packs. Not sure what to do next so i figured i would ask here. 90 chassis with a 97 engine using most of the 90 hardware and sensors besides using the 1.8 alternator.

The weird part is it only occurs under light load/light throttle input and only at that specified RPM range. if i lean into boost it runs through that range without the hiccup hence why i believed my timing may have been too far advanced in that range.

more updates. Chased that issue like crazy until i finally checked the timing again. I know i set it properly last time but i dont think i have been tensioning the belt correctly and it slipped a tooth. Reset it and tensioned it properly and it has been solid since than, no more wackyness around 3k rpm.

Also my 2560 shit the bed. Pretty much this turbo has given me nothing but issues since day 1. It shredded the compressor wheel within a hundred miles of its "rebuild" from the seller(who now no longer sells "rebuilt" turbos of course) and after replacing the wheel and rebuilding it it continued to burn oil like crazy regardless of feed and drain lines being modified. Ultimately due to being on a budget(building houses are expensive) I swapped back on my little sr20 t25 to keep the car running and drive in the mean time. The low and midrange is much more punchy compared to the 2560 but it definitely feels flatter up top. Overall it feels like its around the same 200-220wheel or so as the 2560 just with the curve moved in the lower RPM. I ran the 2560 at 10psi and am running the t25 around 12psi.

I also will reiterate this for any 1.6 guys, the same t25 on my 1.6 feels WAAAAAAAAY better on my 1.8. Long story short, upgrade to a 1.8 before you bother with the 1.6; literally everyone on the forum preaches this and it is for a very good reason. Keep in mind i'm also running a 96 block and head so even more gains are to be found with the 99/00 or VVT heads.

On another topic, I bought a 97 block and crank for cheap that I am planning on rebuilding from the ground up as a rods/stock pistons engine. Waiting on bearings and thrust washers and such but it won't be going in the car anytime soon anyway. Hoping to pair it with a 99 head but realistically i will use a 94 head my buddy has laying around just to save some money. Really only aiming for 300wheel or so max as I don't plan on upgrading anything transmission wise.

Sounds like you're happy with your car is it sits right now. Always nice to hear people not having issues all day long.

If your 97 engine shits the bed also, i would build your spare engine with some forged supertechs or something equal.
I know, its 500$, but make it bomb proof! Leaves so much more head room and that little bit knock protection...

I keep telling people to put in 1.8s, but noone listens (says the person who said screw it and stuck with the 1.6... Do as I say, not as I do, lol).

The car has been a blast ever since getting any of the engines turned up to around 200 wheel or so. I definitely want more power out of it but really am not looking to go much further due to the trans issues. I don't wanna shell out the $$$ for 6 speeds and am waiting to see if any BMW swaps start to become more commonplace in the used market once its saturated in a couple more years. I'd love to run an G25 550 if i'm honest but it's just not in the books as of now. My 1.6 rods only engine was running around 16psi on the 2560 with close to 18 degrees of timing and it definitely made more than any of my other setups by a noticeable amount. I recently broke down that engine and the bearings pistons and rods looked perfect besides a bent valve or two on cylinder 1 and some lights scoring in 2 cylinders that ate the turbo bits. It was rebuild able but decided to take the dive into a 1.8 instead. A rods only 1.8 will make what I want without any issues many have done it before me. Not for nothing i'd rather rebuild my 97 block fully from the ground up with forged rods and pistons and a 99 head or even VVT if i ever have the cash to go for an ms3 at the same time.

LOL. Yeah i just ran what I had because it was easier at the time. Definitely the more expensive way around but much experience gained through the process.

I have a 1.6 kraken and gt2560 and for me the spool is slow :( 2500rpm 100tps 0.2bar 3000rpm 0.3bar 3500rpm 0.45bar and afte 4k all the power of the planet :P So around 3k with 0.3bar its only 70-75whp