Leaking between turbo and manifold...bolts are tight
 

I have the begi manifold and the manifold and turbo flanges were surfaced before installing, and just a little exhaust is leaking out. The bot are very, very tight.

I also noticed that when the car is cold, it doesn't like to make boost, which scared me, but when it gets hot it drives fine...are the surfaces expanding and sealing?

should I take these off and have them surfaced again?

Time to safety wire or go stage-8...anyone know if stage-8 hardware will fit a gt2860rs turbine housing?

If they're flat, put some heavy grease on the two surfaces and bolt it back up. My manifold NEEDED to be surfaced. I literally used a file to get it decent, then heavy grease, bolted that shit together, and after the grease burned and carbon'd up, no more leak. My turbo bolts aren't very very tight either. Just snugged good, probably 20 ft*lbs.

my bolts are so tight they're deformed around the housing, lol.

Over tightening can cause the metals to deform... And leak. Good job.

Yes, overly tight in most cases is worse than loose (not in all cases :jerkit:). Ive tried to get this through my dad head for years. He likes to tighten it until he either breaks a tool, or the bolt. Tight doesnt mean sealed. Which is why there are torque specifications. That grease thing seems like a good idea.

I have the same problem with my s4 mani. I didn't have the problem before tracking the car with the damn turbo blanket on. After the track day torched the blanket I had the exhaust leak. Too much heat must have warped something slightly. BEGI sent me a couple types of gaskets to use to seal it up. I'm too lazy and havent gotten around to sealing it up yet.

What kind of gaskets are you guys using? I know my old RX7 had one of those 1 piece aluminized looking soft gaskets, looked like some kind of fiber coated with foil. They sucked major ass. I cant see how a MLS style gasket would leak so easily, as to be better to run without one.

lol, so much for dynoing my shit next week.

Why? Either...

Remove. Grease. Go dyno that bastard.

Or...

Remove. Flat file. Grease. Go dyno that bastard.

Which of the above depends on how much gap you are dealing with.

After all of the crap you have endured, don't let this little stuff stand in your way. And yes, it is a PITA to even have to deal with it.

Good luck.

Next time my shit's apart I'm V-banding as much as possible. I hate flanges. And bolts.

working on a car in a hotel parking-lot sucks. I checked it after a drive home, and when everything is hot is doesn't leak...however there's no load. Should I even jack with this?

I know, i'd pay with a smile for v-bands.
http://shearerfabrications.com/images/items/gt307.jpg

whoa
http://i35.tinypic.com/20fymwl.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/wixa1h.jpg

:jerkit: I bet that costs a little change. Ideal though.

I've used Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker instead of gaskets. Works great for uneven surfaces. When I did my stang, the turbo headers would not seal, this stuff hooked it up nicely.

Wouldnt imagine it would hold up with much of a gap though. The times Ive used to stuff it never fully hardens, and would probably eventually be blown out from pressure and heat. Probably works fine for a very minor difference in surfaces. Its only rated to 700 or 800 degrees as I recall.

My turbo header was not built very well. It looked good but the surface was not very true. No gasket would work. The stuff I mentioned fixed it. This was on a 600 plus RWHP turbo mustang. It lasted through drag strip passes and daily driving. I also used it on te turbo flange. Just relaying my experience.

How long did it you drive it like this? Not saying your a liar, just finding it hard to believe that copper rtv would hold up that well. I guess I have had success with stranger things that I thought would have never helped.

I doubt the copper sealant is going to hold up to 30-minutes of 1500* egt...but I don't have many other options.

Over a year. It was still holding when I sold the car. It was recommended to me by the guy that built my motor. Honestly, I was skeptical, but it was that, or send the parts back for the gazillionth time to the company I bought my kit from. I had a shit load of fitment issues, and they were not very good at getting shit resolved. Parts didn't fit, parts left out of the package, they would tell me shits coming in a week and it would take months, The turbo they sent me was busted right out of the box, etc. I figured WTF, give it a shot, since the guy that built my motor knew his shit I took his word for it. It worked.

Begi makes kits for mustangs?

:giggle:

:bowrofl:

I had a sealing problem with the flange on my manifold. Use a file, and a metal gasket. In my experience, the copper shit holds for about 30 seconds under the pressure.

Yes they did,they made single and twin turbo kits.

BEGi also made twin turbo kits for the NSX for a while and a prototype S2000 turbo kit,but it never went into production.

You would be suprised in how many makes and models BEGi has added superchargers & turbochargers to.

The previous experience mentioned had nothing to do with BEGI.

Hmm... not many knew about that S2000 kit. Got a spy in here or something? j/k ;)

We also made Honda, BMW, sentra, and protege kits too. Custom kits have include a Toyota 4 runner, F350 diesel, Pantera, BMW's and a few other. My personal fav was the pantera and BMW Z3.
Stephanie

I can provide pictures of Corky installing the S2000 kit on the yellow car.

Is the BMW Z3 kit still in production or is it discontinued?

Cb/1 ftw.

I can't even remember the color of the S2000 car, so you are doing better than me!

The BMW Z3 kit was sold to Cartech when the businesses split. I seriously doubt they are doing anything with it now. Corky could re-design the system or make a new one for the Z4.
Stephanie

Stephanie,it's a shame the S2000 turbo kit did not go into production,it was a very well made kit and looked OEM when installed.

I have a friend that has a Z3 M roadster that he is considering adding fored induction to,he's looking around for options.

I'm "dating" a chick with a CR...too bad she can't give you guys anymoneys.

If I take the Manifold and flange to be resurfaced at a machine shop, will i still need to add grease before installing?

Good job searching, newb.

Things have changed quite a bit since I made this post years ago, and things are much sweeter now. I tried the grease in desperation at the track and after than and a few other failed attempts "we" determined it was relaxing hardware.

The current prescription are TrackSpeed Inconel studs and bolts, this seems to work fine on track-tested cars, I believe there are no failures even on the cars that for lack of a better phrase "do not fuck around" on the track. I think an inconel gasket is the best case scenario, but they aren't readily available though TwinsTurbo may put one together for you.

So should I resurface at machine shop and add the Inconel bolts/studs and Gasket? btw: My car is only a daily driver.

Thanks

Luis Newb

Yes, but minus the gasket. The two surfaces after being machined flat don't need a gasket to seal.

http://trackspeedengineering.com/sto...-kit-p-98.html