linuxbox

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but the bolts keep coming loose and one snapped on my greddy kit. They're the ones that bolt the turbo to the manifold. Anyone know the thread/length/ and any other info I need to go to the hardware store and buy these before I start taking it apart? Thanks!

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Fasteners (Nuts/Bolts/Studs): atpturbo.com

The 8mm studs and copper nuts are what I use. Order extras just in case.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

It is a common problem with the stock hardware.

If you'd have asked this question a day ago I could have answered it as I had easy access to the turbo. Today, the best I can say is to take the bolts to ACE Hadrware and use their thread gauge to determine what they are. Not Home Depot, not Lowes, not Builder's Square. ACE Hardware.

I think they are 8x1.25, but I won't swear to it.

At any rate, once you know the size, find the bin containing the shouldered class 10.9 equivalent. Every ACE has 'em, and these are the ones you want to be using.

For the turbo-manifold junction, I use a set of these (in addition to class 10.9 bolts) and in the three years my Greddy turbo has been in place, I've never had a bolt loosen.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Joe, how do you get those bolts off again? Those lock washers look amazing and as soon as I can find out if they fit a 14b I will order a set.

edit: looks like I can get a set from mcmaster in any size I need.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I don't know- I've never needed to remove mine.

I would imagine that it involves the use of a wrench and the application of torque in a counter-clockwise direction.

1redcanuck

iTrader: (1)

Priceless!!

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Joe, you use the 10.9 shouldered bolts or studs?

I'm going to change the hardware holding the turbo to mani very soon. Tired of the bolts loosening. Should I switch to stud/nut from ATP in conjunction with those nord-locks from FM or stick to bolts (10.9) with the nord-locks? I don't want to have to re-do the fasteners again after this.
-Ryan

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I used 10.9 shouldered bolts for both the turbo-manifold and downpipe-turbo connections. On the manifold connection I used the fancy washers, and at the downpipe I simply used flat washers and split lockwashers. On both sets of bolts I liberally applied copper anti-seize compound prior to insertion. I've no idea how it's holding up after several years of being in an exhaust manifold, but perhaps someday we'll find out.

I did remove the bolts joining the downpipe to the turbo about eight months ago, and the anti-seize compound seemed to have done its job there. None of the bolts were difficult to remove, and their threads (after cleaning with a toothbrush and brake cleaner) appeared pristine. I re-used the same bolts when I re-installed the downpipe.

miatarob112

I saw that no one really answered part of your question; "I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but the bolts keep coming loose and one snapped on my greddy kit. "Yes! Everyone I know wha has the Greddy kit has busted off at least the back right bolt/stud. I guess one ofthe fundamental flaws is that there is no flex in the downpipe. As a result, the torque of the motor puts a lot of stress on the studs and they loosen or snap. I was at an autocross 3 weeks ago. One snapped and the other three were barely finger tight! If you have access to a welder, cut a section of the lower half of the down pipe (about 6" before the cat) and replace it with a piece of flex pipe. My friends who have done this have never had the issue again.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Or kill two birds with one stone and get a bigger downpipe, IIRC both types on the market for the Greddy use a flex section.

Chris_Himself

Go to home depot or osh, they will have them there for about 65 cents apiece I believe. Bring the other fasteners and I swear there is always a guy who can eyeball whatever bolt you have and get it right the first time around.

linuxbox

iTrader: (2)

What did you torque them to?

Tmorgan

iTrader: (1)

As tight as you can with a 1/4 ratchet.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, some fasteners you just can't get a torque wrench onto. I snugged mine down with an open-end wrench, and like Tmorgan, just tried to get 'em as tight as reasonably practical.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Why you persist in posting up these images of your turbo-shaped **** ring simply confounds me...

linuxbox

iTrader: (2)

Jesus christ 3 out of 4 bolts are broken off in the manifold, and there is also a crack in the manifold now. I can't even drill them out, such a pain in the ***. I'm just going to weld the turbo to the manifold, lets see it come loose then! Then once that turbo blows I'll throw it and the manifold off a building and get better ****.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

If you don't track the car:
get the studs out
get BOLTS
dress the bolts with lots and lots of copper anti-seize
get .032" B122 safetywire and pliars
use 15lb/ft or so on the bolts
heat cycle and when cool, tighten again
win at life

This will probably work on the street.

To get the currently broken studs out, hit the broken area with a torch (beat red), then hold a candle on there, mig a nut to the stud area(the cast manifold won't weld, the broken stud will), twist off, win at life.

linuxbox

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the good advice, I went to a welding shop this morning before seeing your post, he torched most of the old bolt and then drill pressed and tapped new 5/16 thread holes, and gave me some anti-seize so hopefully I won't have any more broken bolts!

Reverend Greg

iTrader: (3)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
5/16-18 or 5/16-24?
-G-