Manifold to turbo seal ?'s
 

I'm taking my Greddy manifold in to get the flange milled because the block side is warped. What are the odd's of getting a good seal between the unmilled turbo housing and the milled manifold? Should I rip the turbo apart and have it milled? They do not appear to be leaking at the moment, should I just leave them be? Right now I have no gasket between the manifold and turbo.

Does anyone know roughly how much it will cost? I want to have an idea before I rip it out. Thanks.

You don't need a gasket between the turbo and manifold. If it's not leaking now, why would you mess with that flange?

Well the good news is that the manifold is not warped. I took it out and set it on a mirror, no movement. The bad news is my turbo studs are all nasty and they let the turbo come loose. They are rusty and the lock washers don't work. I will be replacing them ASAP, they were all grade 8. I didn't skimp on them so I'm not sure why they did this.

check out these little washers from FM, they're cleverly designed for the problem of those bolts backing out.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=36-30300

It just happens....i replace my studs, nuts and washers nearly everytime i pull the turbo. (yes, it was a few times last summer)

I had my manifold modified to accept 3/8" studs. Much strong and easy to find in a variety of materials. I did this because one of the M10 studs sheared off and the other three had damaged threads in the manifold. I also use nordlock washers, which are what FM sells.

If you go to http://mdmetric.com/nordlock/contact.html and request samples they'll send them to you :) I got enough to do the turbo -> manifold and turbo -> DP. Plus a couple of spares.

A regular lock washer will not work, the heat will cause them to loose their temper (and get really pissed off). When I took mine apart this winter the regular lock washers were totally flat with no spring left. Constant heating and cooling likely anneals the metal.