jbresee

I'm done with my BEGI-S install. I took if for a test drive this afternoon.

I see fuel pressure passing 50psi as the boost gauge moves through zero, and at 5 psi boost, I see 85 psi of fuel pressure. So that's good.

I have a bipes installed with my base timing set at 12*, and bipes set to pull a total of 6 degrees of timing off at full load. I set it to start pulling at 2000 rpm.

It all seems fine, but now I'm hyper paranoid about pre-ignition based on Spooky blowing his motor.

I do hear a rattle as I move into boost, but it is very localized to the area of the turbo, and it doesn't sound like the pinging of my old V8's.

Also, the car pulls hard without misfire or hesitation to redline.

So, I'm probably worrying needlessly...

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

At 5psi on stock injectors, you've got plenty of fuel at 85psi.
For 93octane, your timing is actually a little conservative.
Your probably fine for your tune even without an intercooler.

The rattle you're hearing is the wastegate arm rattling... nothing to worry about. Make sure the arm is tight against the flapper... ie, the arm is actually putting pressure on the flapper... the wastegate arm length is adjustable for this purpose.

Invest $200 in an LC1 or a little more for the AEM wideband to ALWAYS be sure of your tune.

jbresee

Thanks Sam,
I want the wide band setup. I have to figure out how to sneak the cash out of the cookie jar.

I'm thinking of building the JAW DIY wideband. It would save a little money, and I could bone up on my soldering skills before I take on the MS project.

Jim

cwisenheimer

I know this sounds wierd, but an exhaust leak can sound like that too. I had a loose connection between my downpipe and cat when I put it on a dyno, even Corky (who happened to be there) asked if it was knocking. Thirty seconds with a wrench and it was okay.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Seconded, that rattling drove me crazy until I fixed it.

Remember to put only enough pressure on it to stop the rattle, no more unless you want to increase the boost.

jbresee

I'll take another look at the DP and manifold for any leaks. I think some of the noise is actually the boost gauge. When it starts to boost, it makes a bit of a rattle.

Jim

Laur3ns

Since I had no (working) boost gauge and timing was at fixed 10* I may have been out of luck. However, I strongly suggest a WBO2, and not a DIY version - you want it to be accurate.

wes65

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, my begi boost gauge rattles too. If yours is like mine, it is from the needle jumping back and forth. I put a restrictor in the line to my boost gauge and it helped a lot. You may also double the line back on itself and put a rubber band around it. This is what Corky suggested I do when I asked him about it. You want the rubber band to be loose enough to still allow some air to pass through.

jbresee

I just can't afford the wb02 right now... soon, I hope.

Stephanie Turner

What about the downpipe cross bolt? Heat shield? those are rattle makers too.
Stephanie

jbresee

The down pipe cross bolt is indeed loose. I hate that bolt with a passion.

I've got a little exhaust leaking out of that slip joint.

jbresee

The boost gauge rattle was bugging me, so I ended up putting a clip on the line to to stop the bouncing needle. I'm going to pick up a restrictor to do it the right way.

Still don't have the downpipe cross bolt as tight as it should be. That suckers a PITA to get at.

I'm also throwing a CEL - 15 and 17, so I suspect I boogered up the O2 when I put it back in.

Finally, I think I'm leaking oil at the rear main seal. I am getting clutch slippage when I pull in 4th.

There is always something to make better!
Jim